
Chef Klaus
Bienenstich
Bienenstich works when the almond top caramelises without burning and the yeast cake cools before the cream goes in. Rush either one and the bee has stung you.
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The Black Forest cake lives or dies by the Kirschwasser syrup: enough to scent the sponge and sharpen the cream, not so much that the layers slump.
Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte belongs to the Konditorei, the German cake counter, and to birthdays, confirmations, Sunday coffee, and any table where someone had the sense to bake the sponge the day before. It is strongest in Baden and the Black Forest, where the sour cherries and Kirschwasser, cherry brandy, are not decoration. They are the dish.
The argument is never whether the Kirschwasser belongs. It does. The argument is how much, and where it goes. Some pastry shops put it mostly into the cherry filling, some brush it hard into the chocolate Biskuit, sponge cake; I put it in the syrup so every layer gets it evenly. Im Norden anders, im Süden anders, but on this cake the south wins the bottle.
The technique that decides it is cold assembly. The sponge must be fully cool, the cherry filling must be set, and the cream must be whipped only to soft-firm peaks, because warm cake melts cream and overwhipped cream turns grainy before you can cover the sides. Brush the syrup on, don't drown it. A wet cake cuts badly and eats worse.
Use sour cherries from the jar if fresh ones aren't in season. That isn't a sin; that is the larder doing its job. But the Kirschwasser is not optional, and the cream is not from a spray can. Nicht aus dem Glas, and not from the can either.
Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte is a twentieth-century cake, with the pastry cook Josef Keller often credited with an early version in 1915 near Bonn, though the Black Forest region later claimed the cake through its Kirschwasser and sour-cherry tradition. By the 1930s it was widely known in German cake shops, and German bakery guidelines still define it by the presence of Kirschwasser. The surprise for many cooks is that the cake is not medieval mountain food; it is Konditorei work built from regional cherry brandy, chocolate sponge, and cream.
Quantity
6
separated
Quantity
180g
for the sponge
Quantity
1 pinch
Quantity
120g
Quantity
40g
Quantity
40g
for the sponge
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
60g
melted and cooled
Quantity
700g
drained, juice reserved
Quantity
250ml
Quantity
60g
for the cherry filling
Quantity
30g
for the cherry filling
Quantity
80ml
divided
Quantity
60g
for the syrup
Quantity
120ml
Quantity
900ml
Quantity
60g
Quantity
2 teaspoons vanilla sugar or 1 teaspoon extract
Quantity
2 packets stabilizer or 12g gelatine
prepared according to packet instructions
Quantity
150g
shaved into curls
Quantity
12
for decorating
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| large eggsseparated | 6 |
| sugarfor the sponge | 180g |
| fine salt | 1 pinch |
| plain flour | 120g |
| unsweetened cocoa powder | 40g |
| cornflourfor the sponge | 40g |
| baking powder | 1 teaspoon |
| unsalted buttermelted and cooled | 60g |
| jarred sour cherriesdrained, juice reserved | 700g |
| reserved sour cherry juice | 250ml |
| sugarfor the cherry filling | 60g |
| cornflourfor the cherry filling | 30g |
| Kirschwasserdivided | 80ml |
| sugarfor the syrup | 60g |
| water | 120ml |
| cold whipping cream | 900ml |
| icing sugar | 60g |
| vanilla sugar or vanilla extract | 2 teaspoons vanilla sugar or 1 teaspoon extract |
| cream stabilizer or powdered gelatineprepared according to packet instructions | 2 packets stabilizer or 12g gelatine |
| dark chocolateshaved into curls | 150g |
| whole sour cherriesfor decorating | 12 |
Heat the oven to 180C and line the base of a 24cm springform tin with baking paper. Whisk the egg yolks with half the sugar until pale and thick, then whisk the whites with the salt and the remaining sugar to glossy peaks. Sift the flour, cocoa, cornflour, and baking powder over the yolks, fold in the whites gently, then fold in the cooled butter; the air in the eggs is what lifts the Biskuit, so don't beat it flat. Bake 28 to 32 minutes, until the centre springs back and a skewer comes out clean.
Drain the cherries and keep the juice. Whisk 250ml juice with 60g sugar and 30g cornflour in a saucepan while cold, because cornflour stirred into hot liquid makes lumps before it thickens anything. Bring it to a boil, stir until clear and glossy, then fold in the cherries and 30ml Kirschwasser. Cool it completely so it sets before it touches the cream.
Boil the water with 60g sugar for one minute, then take it off the heat and cool it. Stir in 50ml Kirschwasser only after the syrup has cooled, because boiling drives off the cherry brandy you paid for. This is the smell of the cake. Don't lose it to the ceiling.
Run a knife around the cooled sponge and slice it into three even layers with a long serrated knife. Work slowly and turn the cake as you cut, because sawing from one side pushes the crumb down and gives you crooked layers. Brush each cut side with the Kirschwasser syrup, enough to scent and moisten, not enough to flood.
Whip the cold cream with the icing sugar, vanilla, and stabilizer to soft-firm peaks. Stop when the whisk leaves clear lines and the cream still looks smooth, because overwhipped cream goes grainy and won't spread cleanly. Keep it cold while you assemble. Das braucht seine Zeit, and some of that time is waiting.
Set the bottom sponge layer on a serving plate and spread it with a thin layer of cream, then spoon over half the cooled cherry filling, leaving a small border so it doesn't squeeze out. Add the second sponge, repeat with cream and cherries, then set the top layer on. Cover the top and sides with cream, using enough pressure to smooth, not enough to drag crumbs through the white cream.
Press chocolate curls onto the sides and scatter more over the top, then pipe 12 cream rosettes around the edge and set a cherry on each one. Chill the cake at least 2 hours before cutting, because the cream firms, the syrup settles, and the layers stop sliding around like they have somewhere better to be. Cut with a knife dipped in hot water and wiped dry between slices.
1 serving (about 230g)
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