Savory Potato Kugel

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •9x13 inch metal baking pan or 12-inch cast iron skillet
• •Box grater or food processor with shredding disc
• •Large mixing bowl
• •Clean kitchen towel or cheesecloth for draining

Instructions

1. 1

   Preheat and prepare pan

   Position a rack in the center of your oven and preheat to 400°F. Add 3 tablespoons of schmaltz to a 9x13 inch baking dish or large cast iron skillet. Place the pan in the oven while it preheats. The fat must be rippling hot when the batter hits it. This is non-negotiable. A cold pan produces a soggy bottom, and nobody wants that.

   A cast iron skillet produces the crispiest edges, but a standard metal baking pan works beautifully. Avoid glass or ceramic, which don't conduct heat aggressively enough for proper crust formation.
2. 2

   Grate the potatoes

   Using the large holes of a box grater or the shredding disc of a food processor, grate all the potatoes into a large bowl. Work quickly but don't panic about discoloration. The onion and eggs will minimize oxidation, and any gray tinges disappear during baking. If using a food processor, you'll finish in about five minutes. By hand, expect fifteen. Either method produces excellent results.

   A food processor fitted with the shredding disc transforms this from an arm workout into a quick task. If you're feeding a crowd or making multiple batches, the investment pays for itself in saved effort.
3. 3

   Grate onions and combine

   Grate the onions using the same method, letting them fall directly into the potatoes. The onion juice helps prevent browning and adds moisture that keeps the interior creamy. Toss the potatoes and onions together immediately. Your eyes may water. This is the price of honest cooking.

4. 4

   Drain excess liquid

   Transfer the potato-onion mixture to a clean kitchen towel or several layers of cheesecloth. Gather the corners and squeeze firmly over the sink. You'll extract a surprising amount of starchy liquid, perhaps a full cup. Wring until the mixture feels merely damp rather than wet. This step determines whether your kugel emerges crispy or waterlogged. Don't skip it, and don't be gentle.

   Save that starchy potato water if you like. Let it settle for ten minutes, pour off the liquid, and you'll find a layer of pure potato starch at the bottom. Add it back to your batter for extra binding power.
5. 5

   Build the batter

   Return the drained potato mixture to a large bowl. Add the beaten eggs, 1/3 cup schmaltz, matzo meal, salt, pepper, and baking powder. Stir vigorously until everything is evenly distributed. The batter should look cohesive but loose, more like a thick porridge than a dough. Taste a small bit and adjust seasoning. Remember that potatoes absorb salt during baking, so err toward slightly more rather than less.

6. 6

   Transfer to hot pan

   Carefully remove the preheated pan from the oven. The schmaltz should be shimmering and fragrant, nearly smoking. Working quickly, pour the batter into the center and spread it evenly with a spatula. You'll hear a satisfying sizzle as the bottom begins to crisp immediately. This sound means you've done it right. Smooth the top and return the pan to the oven without delay.

7. 7

   Bake until deeply golden

   Bake for 1 hour and 15 minutes, resisting every urge to open the oven door during the first 45 minutes. The kugel is done when the top is a deep golden brown, the edges have pulled away slightly from the pan, and a knife inserted in the center comes out clean. The surface should look almost lacquered, with patches that border on mahogany. If it's merely blonde, give it another 10 to 15 minutes. Pale kugel is timid kugel.

   Every oven runs differently. Trust color over time. The top should remind you of a well-browned roast potato, not a lightly toasted piece of bread.
8. 8

   Rest and serve

   Let the kugel rest for 10 minutes before cutting. This allows the interior to set and makes slicing cleaner. Cut into squares or wedges, making sure each portion includes some of that glorious crust. Serve warm, though kugel holds its appeal at room temperature for hours, which makes it ideal for buffet service.

Chef Tips

• •Schmaltz is available in the kosher section of most supermarkets, or you can render your own from chicken skin and fat. Collect trimmings in your freezer until you have a cup's worth, then cook them slowly over low heat with a sliced onion until the fat is liquid and golden. Strain and refrigerate. Nothing else replicates its flavor, though vegetable oil or duck fat make acceptable substitutes for those who keep different dietary traditions.
• •For the crispiest possible top, brush the surface with an additional tablespoon of melted schmaltz about 45 minutes into baking. This creates an almost lacquered finish that shatters beautifully.
• •Kugel serves twelve generously as a side dish, but I've never seen leftovers at a holiday table. If you're feeding more than eight people, make two pans. They'll both disappear.
• •Traditionally served alongside brisket, roast chicken, or latkes, kugel also makes an excellent brunch dish with sour cream and applesauce on the side. The combination of crispy, creamy, tangy, and sweet is remarkably satisfying.
• •Day-old kugel, sliced and pan-fried in schmaltz until crispy on both sides, may actually be better than fresh. The edges caramelize, the interior stays creamy, and you've created an entirely new dish from leftovers.

Advance Preparation

• •The assembled, unbaked kugel can be covered tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 8 hours before baking. Add 10 to 15 minutes to the baking time if starting from cold. This is the make-ahead method I recommend for holiday meals.
• •Fully baked kugel can be held at room temperature for up to 2 hours, covered loosely with foil. It remains delicious, though the crust softens slightly.
• •To reheat leftover kugel, place portions on a sheet pan in a 375°F oven for 15 minutes. The top will re-crisp and the interior will warm through without drying out.
• •Baked kugel freezes well for up to 2 months. Wrap individual portions tightly in foil, then place in freezer bags. Reheat directly from frozen at 350°F for 25 to 30 minutes.
• •Schmaltz can be rendered weeks in advance and stored refrigerated for up to a month, or frozen for three months. Having it ready makes kugel a much simpler undertaking.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 285g)