
Chef Klaus
Allgäuer Käsesuppe
The Allgäu's Alpine cheese soup works only if the Bergkäse melts gently off the heat, where it turns smooth instead of stringy.
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Swabia's sour potato wheels are made from the cheap things in the pot: floury potatoes, bacon, onion, and vinegar added late so the broth stays bright.
Saure Rädle are Swabian potato work: sour little wheels in a bacon-and-onion broth, made for the stored-potato half of the year when the cellar matters more than the market. This is weeknight food, and it can sit on a plain Sunday table too, especially with Saitenwürstle, the Swabian frankfurter-style sausage, warmed at the edge of the pot.
The argument is local and practical. Some Swabian kitchens bind the sauce with a pale roux, some let the floury potatoes thicken it on their own. Baden often wants it a shade sharper, Württemberg often wants the sausage beside it. Im Norden anders, im Süden anders: in the north this potato would more likely land in a clear or creamy soup with smoked meat, not in a sour Swabian sauce. Das ist kein Bierzelt.
The one technique is the vinegar. It goes in after the potatoes have softened and given the broth a little starch, because acid tightens the potato and keeps a raw bite if you add it too early. Then you simmer gently, not hard, so the edges loosen enough to thicken the pot while the rounds still look like rounds. Erst verstehen, dann kochen.
Use the bacon rind if you have it. Weggeworfen wird nichts. It gives the broth backbone, then comes out before serving. Taste at the end: potato, smoke, onion, then sourness lifting the spoon. Schön ist, was schmeckt.
Saure Rädle belong to the Swabian potato kitchen that took shape after the potato moved from garden curiosity to field crop in the eighteenth century; Frederick II's 1756 Prussian potato order is the famous dated marker, while hunger and state encouragement pushed the tuber through Württemberg and Baden as well. The name Rädle means little wheels, a Swabian diminutive for the sliced potatoes that stretched a little bacon, onion, stock, and vinegar into a full pot. The regional split is still practical: one kitchen makes a light roux, another trusts floury potatoes to shed starch and bind the sour broth.
Quantity
900g
peeled and sliced into 8mm rounds
Quantity
100g
diced
Quantity
1 small piece
Quantity
1 large
finely diced
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
700ml
Quantity
1
Quantity
2 tablespoons, plus 1 tablespoon more to finish
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
2 tablespoons
chopped
Quantity
4
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| floury potatoespeeled and sliced into 8mm rounds | 900g |
| smoked bacon or Bauchspeckdiced | 100g |
| smoked bacon rind (optional) | 1 small piece |
| onionfinely diced | 1 large |
| lard or neutral oil (optional) | 1 tablespoon |
| hot meat stock or vegetable stock | 700ml |
| bay leaf | 1 |
| white wine vinegar | 2 tablespoons, plus 1 tablespoon more to finish |
| sugar | 1 teaspoon |
| salt | to taste |
| freshly ground black pepper | to taste |
| flat-leaf parsley or chiveschopped | 2 tablespoons |
| Saitenwürstle or Wiener sausages (optional) | 4 |
Put the diced bacon and the bacon rind, if you have it, into a heavy pot over medium-low heat. Start cool and let the fat run out slowly, because bacon cooked hard at the start scorches before it gives the pot anything useful. Add the lard only if the bacon is lean.
Add the onion and a small pinch of salt, then cook until it turns glassy and sweet, 6 to 8 minutes. Do not brown it hard. This stew wants onion sweetness under the vinegar, not burnt edges fighting it.
Add the potato rounds and turn them through the bacon fat for a minute so the starch takes a little fat before the stock goes in. Pour in the hot stock, add the bay leaf, and use just enough liquid to barely cover the potatoes. Too much stock makes soup; this is a stew.
Bring the pot to a quiet simmer, then runter mit der Temperatur, down with the temperature. Cover partly and cook 15 to 18 minutes, shaking the pot once or twice instead of stirring hard. Floury potatoes thicken the broth at the edges, but a hard boil breaks the wheels into paste.
When a potato round bends easily on a spoon, stir in 2 tablespoons vinegar, the sugar, and black pepper. Add the vinegar now, not at the start, because acid keeps potato cells firm and would leave the middle stubborn. Simmer 2 minutes so the sharpness goes through the broth.
Remove the bacon rind and bay leaf. If using Saitenwürstle, lay them in the pot for 5 minutes to warm through without boiling, because a boiled sausage splits and loses its snap. Taste before serving: salt last, more vinegar if the potatoes have dulled it, then parsley or chives over the top. Würzen, Fett, Salz zum Schluss.
1 serving (about 455g)
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