
Chef Joost
Ajam Besengek
Ajam Besengek is the golden chicken stew of the Indo-Dutch table: coconut milk, turmeric, and candlenut cooked down until the sauce clings to the meat like memory.
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The name means sweet, and the skewer carries an Indo-Dutch journey: Indonesian sate, Dutch party tables, and ketjap manis glossing pork until the fire writes caramel at the edges.
Saté manis has no saint's day and no tide table. Its season is the first Dutch evening when the back door stays open and someone decides the kitchen can move outside, though it also appears at birthdays in February because the Indo-Dutch table has never asked permission from weather. I first knew it that way: not as restaurant food, not as a performance, but as the skewer passed over a crowded table, sweet soy shining under the lamp, someone guarding the last piece with the seriousness usually reserved for inheritance.
The name already tells you. Saté is the Dutch spelling of Indonesian sate, and manis means sweet in Indonesian and Malay. That little word is the whole instruction: ketjap manis, the dark sweet soy sauce of the Indonesian kitchen, palm sugar, garlic, shallot, a little coriander and white pepper. The Netherlands brought plenty home from the old Indies that deserves careful moral accounting; it also brought home a table that changed Dutch appetite for good. History and cookery, they cannot be separated.
But let me tell you a secret: this is not a fierce satay. Saté manis belongs to the milder side of the Indo-Dutch kitchen, the side made for children stealing skewers before the adults sit down and for a barbecue where not everyone wants to meet sambal, chilli paste, first. The sugar is not there to make it childish. It is there to lacquer the pork, so the fire writes a brown edge before the tenderloin dries out.
Your job is restraint. Cut the pork evenly, let the marinade do its quiet work, and cook over a patient heat, because ketjap burns if you show off. Hou het altijd simpel, always keep it simple: a skewer, a glaze, cucumber for coolness, maybe a bowl of pindasaus, peanut sauce, at the side. The journey was complicated. The cooking doesn't need to be.
Sate became part of Dutch cooking through the former Netherlands East Indies, where Indonesian sate was sold by street vendors and cooked at domestic tables long before it crossed into Dutch snack culture. The Dutch spelling saté preserves that route into the Netherlands, while manis, sweet in Indonesian and Malay, points to ketjap manis, the sweet soy sauce shaped by Indonesian Chinese cookery. Pork saté manis sits especially in Indo-Dutch, Chinese-Indonesian, Balinese, and other non-Muslim Indonesian foodways; after 1945, and especially after Indonesian independence in 1949, repatriated Dutch and Indo families, the Eurasian community of the former colony, made it familiar at parties, barbecues, and toko counters, toko meaning the Indonesian-Dutch food shop.
Quantity
700g
trimmed and cut into 2.5cm cubes
Quantity
120ml
Quantity
1 1/2 tablespoons
Quantity
2 tablespoons
plus more for the grill
Quantity
2 small
finely grated
Quantity
3
finely grated
Quantity
2 teaspoons
finely grated
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2
sliced
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| pork tenderlointrimmed and cut into 2.5cm cubes | 700g |
| ketjap manis (Indonesian sweet soy sauce) | 120ml |
| grated palm sugar or dark brown sugar | 1 1/2 tablespoons |
| neutral oilplus more for the grill | 2 tablespoons |
| shallotsfinely grated | 2 small |
| garlic clovesfinely grated | 3 |
| fresh gingerfinely grated | 2 teaspoons |
| ground coriander | 1 teaspoon |
| ground cumin | 1/2 teaspoon |
| ground white pepper | 1/2 teaspoon |
| tamarind water or lime juice | 1 tablespoon |
| sambal oelek (optional) | 1 teaspoon |
| cucumbersliced | 1/2 |
| fried shallots | 2 tablespoons |
| pindasaus (Dutch peanut sauce) (optional) | for serving |
Whisk the ketjap manis, palm sugar, oil, shallots, garlic, ginger, coriander, cumin, white pepper, and tamarind water together in a bowl. Spoon 2 tablespoons into a clean cup for glazing before the pork touches the rest. Taste the marinade now. It should be sweet first, salty underneath, with a small sour edge so the glaze does not turn cloying. If you want heat, add the sambal, chilli paste; saté manis should still keep its manners.
Add the pork cubes to the bowl and turn them until every surface is coated. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to 8 hours. Tenderloin is tender already; this bath is for seasoning, not softening. After a whole night, the acid starts making the edges woolly, and history has not asked us to do that.
If using bamboo skewers, soak them in water for 30 minutes. Thread 4 or 5 pieces of pork onto each skewer, close enough to sit neatly but not squeezed tight. Let the skewers stand at room temperature for 20 minutes while the grill heats; ice-cold pork tightens before it browns.
Heat a grill or heavy grill pan to medium-high and oil it lightly. Cook the skewers for 8 to 10 minutes, turning every 2 minutes, brushing only with the reserved clean marinade during the last few turns. You want glossy dark-brown patches and lightly caught edges, not blackened sugar. The pork is done when the thickest piece reaches 63C, then it needs 5 minutes of rest.
Pile the skewers on a platter, scatter over the fried shallots, and serve with cucumber slices and pindasaus, peanut sauce, at the side. If you want to use marinade that touched raw pork as sauce, boil it hard for 2 minutes first; otherwise discard it. The Dutch party instinct is to drown every saté in sauce. Resist a little. Let the first bite be ketjap, pork, and fire.
1 serving (about 140g)
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