Sartù di Riso

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •10-inch springform pan or 3-quart dome mold
• •Heavy 6-quart pot for ragù
• •Wide heavy pan for rice
• •Food mill for tomatoes
• •Large skillet for meatballs

Instructions

1. 1

   Begin the ragù

   In a heavy pot, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until soft and golden, about 10 minutes. Add the pork pieces and brown well on all sides, turning occasionally, about 15 minutes. Pour in the wine and let it evaporate completely, scraping any browned bits from the bottom.

   Ragù napoletano is not Bolognese. The meat cooks in large pieces, contributing flavor, and is traditionally served as a second course. For sartù, the meat enriches the sauce while the sauce fills the timballo.
2. 2

   Simmer the ragù

   Add the passed tomatoes and season with salt and pepper. Bring to a gentle simmer, then reduce heat to the lowest setting. Cover partially and cook for at least 2 hours, preferably 3, stirring occasionally. The sauce should reduce and concentrate, the fat rising in golden pools to the surface. Remove the meat pieces and set aside for another use. You need about 2 cups of sauce for the sartù.

3. 3

   Make the meatballs

   While the ragù simmers, combine the ground beef, ground pork, breadcrumbs, Parmigiano, egg, milk, parsley, and salt in a bowl. Mix with your hands until just combined. Do not overwork. Roll into tiny meatballs the size of hazelnuts, about 3/4 inch in diameter. You should have 40 to 50 meatballs. Uniformity matters here.

   The meatballs must be small. When you slice the sartù, each wedge should contain several whole meatballs. Large meatballs become obstacles, not treasures.
4. 4

   Fry the meatballs

   Heat 1/4 inch of olive oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. When the oil shimmers, fry the meatballs in batches, turning frequently, until golden brown on all sides, about 4 minutes per batch. Transfer to paper towels to drain. They will finish cooking inside the timballo.

5. 5

   Cook the rice

   In a wide, heavy pot, melt the 4 tablespoons butter over medium heat. Add the rice and stir to coat every grain, about 2 minutes. Begin adding the warm broth one ladleful at a time, stirring frequently and waiting until each addition is nearly absorbed before adding the next. Continue until the rice is tender but still has pleasant resistance, about 18 minutes. The rice should be slightly looser than finished risotto.

6. 6

   Enrich the rice

   Remove the rice from heat. Stir in the cup of Parmigiano. Let the rice cool for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Beat the 3 egg yolks in a small bowl, then stir them vigorously into the rice. The residual heat will cook them slightly, creating a creamy binding. Season with salt. The rice should be rich, cohesive, and spreadable, not stiff or gluey.

7. 7

   Prepare the mold

   Generously butter a 10-inch springform pan or a 3-quart dome mold, using all 4 tablespoons of softened butter. Coat the butter thoroughly with fine breadcrumbs, tilting and rotating to cover the bottom and sides completely. Shake out any excess. The breadcrumb layer creates the golden crust.

   A springform pan makes unmolding far easier. Traditional copper molds are beautiful but require experience. Master the technique with a springform first.
8. 8

   Line with rice

   Spoon about two-thirds of the rice into the prepared mold. Using wet hands or the back of a wet spoon, press the rice firmly against the bottom and up the sides, creating a shell about 3/4 inch thick. The shell must be uniform with no thin spots, or the filling will break through during baking. Leave rice reserved for the top.

9. 9

   Add the filling

   Spread half the ragù over the bottom of the rice shell. Scatter half the meatballs, half the mozzarella cubes, half the peas, and half the hard-boiled egg quarters over the ragù. Add the remaining ragù, then the remaining meatballs, cheese, peas, and eggs. If using provola, add it now. Do not press down. The filling should mound slightly in the center.

10. 10

    Seal and finish

    Spread the remaining rice over the filling, pressing gently to seal it completely to the rice walls. The dome should be fully enclosed with no filling visible. Smooth the top with wet hands. Sprinkle a thin layer of breadcrumbs over the top and dot with small pieces of butter.

11. 11

    Bake the sartù

    Heat the oven to 375°F. Bake the sartù until the top is deeply golden and the sides have begun to pull away from the pan slightly, about 50 to 60 minutes. The internal temperature should reach 165°F. If the top browns too quickly, tent loosely with foil. Remove from the oven and let rest for at least 15 minutes before unmolding. This rest is essential. The cheese must set slightly or the filling will spill when cut.

12. 12

    Unmold and serve

    Run a thin knife around the edges. If using a springform, release the sides carefully. Place a large serving platter over the top and invert confidently in one motion. Lift away the pan. The sartù should stand as a golden dome. Let it rest another 5 minutes. Cut into wedges with a sharp knife, revealing the layers within. Serve immediately, while the mozzarella still stretches.

    The first slice is the most dramatic. Make sure your guests are watching. This is theater as much as dinner.

Chef Tips

• •The ragù can be made days ahead. In fact, it should be. Neapolitan cooks often make their Sunday ragù on Thursday or Friday, knowing that time deepens flavor. The assembled sartù cannot wait, but its components can.
• •Fresh mozzarella contains moisture that can make the filling wet. Pat the cubes dry with paper towels before adding them. Or use provola affumicata, smoked provola, which has less moisture and adds a subtle smokiness.
• •Some Neapolitan families add chicken livers, sautéed sausage, or wild mushrooms to the filling. These are not wrong. They are family traditions. Make it your own after you have made it correctly once.
• •If the sartù cracks when unmolded, do not panic. Neapolitan grandmothers would shrug and say it tastes the same. They would be right.

Advance Preparation

• •The ragù can be made up to 4 days ahead and refrigerated, or frozen for 3 months. The flavor improves with time.
• •Meatballs can be fried one day ahead and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before assembling.
• •Hard-boiled eggs can be prepared one day ahead and refrigerated, unpeeled.
• •The rice must be made the day of serving. It stiffens too much when refrigerated.
• •The fully assembled, unbaked sartù can be refrigerated for up to 4 hours before baking. Add 10 minutes to the baking time if cold.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 425g)