Sartù di Riso

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •12-cup charlotte mold or deep round baking dish
• •Large pot for cooking rice
• •Heavy saucepan for ragù
• •Large skillet for browning meatballs
• •Food mill for passing tomatoes

Instructions

1. 1

   Make the ragù

   In a heavy saucepan, warm the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion, celery, and carrot. Cook slowly, stirring occasionally, until completely soft and the onion turns pale gold, about 15 minutes. Add the wine and let it evaporate completely. Add the passed tomatoes, season with salt and pepper, and simmer gently for 45 minutes to one hour. The sauce should reduce and concentrate. Set aside. You need about two cups for the sartù.

   This is a simple ragù, not a meat sauce. The tomato should taste sweet and concentrated. If your sauce tastes sharp, it has not cooked long enough.
2. 2

   Form the meatballs

   Soak the fresh breadcrumbs in the milk until absorbed. In a bowl, combine the ground beef, soaked breadcrumbs, one egg, parsley, half a teaspoon of salt, and a few grinds of pepper. Mix with your hands until just combined. Overworking makes tough meatballs. Form into balls the size of small grapes, no larger than a hazelnut. You should have about forty.

   Neapolitan meatballs for sartù are tiny. Large meatballs belong in soup or served alone. Here, they must nestle among the rice and distribute evenly when sliced.
3. 3

   Brown the meatballs

   In a large skillet, heat two tablespoons of butter over medium-high heat. Working in batches to avoid crowding, brown the meatballs on all sides. They need not cook through; the oven will finish them. Transfer to a plate as they brown. This takes about ten minutes total.

4. 4

   Cook the rice

   Bring the meat broth to a simmer in a large pot. Add the rice and cook, stirring occasionally, until nearly tender but still with a firm core, about 12 minutes. The rice should be slightly underdone; it will finish in the oven. Drain, reserving the broth for another use. The rice should not be wet.

   This is not risotto technique. You are parboiling the rice, not coaxing starch. The rice grains should remain separate and distinct.
5. 5

   Dress the rice

   Transfer the drained rice to a large bowl. While still warm, add three tablespoons of butter cut into pieces, the Parmigiano-Reggiano, the beaten eggs, and the nutmeg. Stir thoroughly until the butter melts and the eggs coat the grains. Season with salt and pepper. The mixture should be cohesive but not gluey. Let it cool until you can handle it.

6. 6

   Prepare the mold

   Generously butter a 12-cup round baking dish or charlotte mold, using about one tablespoon of soft butter. Coat completely with the dry breadcrumbs, tipping out the excess. The crumbs create the golden crust that defines sartù. Heat oven to 375 degrees Fahrenheit.

7. 7

   Layer the timbale

   Press two-thirds of the rice mixture firmly against the bottom and sides of the prepared mold, creating walls about one inch thick. The rice should come all the way up the sides. Spread half the ragù over the bottom. Scatter half the meatballs, half the mozzarella and provola cubes, and half the peas. Arrange the hard-boiled egg quarters in a single layer. Add the remaining meatballs, cheese, and peas. Top with the remaining ragù. Cover with the remaining rice, pressing firmly to seal completely. The filling must be enclosed.

8. 8

   Bake the sartù

   Bake until the top is golden and the rice pulls away slightly from the sides of the mold, about 45 minutes to one hour. The internal temperature should reach 160 degrees. Let rest for 15 minutes before unmolding. This resting is essential. Without it, the sartù collapses.

9. 9

   Unmold and serve

   Run a thin knife around the edges. Place a large serving platter over the mold, hold firmly, and invert with confidence. Lift the mold away. The sartù should stand golden and proud, the breadcrumb crust crisp. If any rice sticks, simply press it back into place. Cut into wedges at the table, revealing the treasures within. Serve immediately.

Chef Tips

• •The rice must be slightly underdone when you drain it. Fully cooked rice becomes mushy in the oven. Trust this. The eggs and cheese will bind the grains during baking.
• •Make your meatballs truly small. The size of a hazelnut, no larger. When you slice the sartù, each wedge should contain several meatballs distributed evenly throughout.
• •Provola, the smoked version of mozzarella, adds depth that fresh mozzarella alone cannot. If unavailable, use all fresh mozzarella, but the dish loses a layer of flavor.
• •The breadcrumb coating is not optional. It creates the characteristic golden crust and allows clean unmolding. Butter and crumb the mold thoroughly, missing no spot.

Advance Preparation

• •The ragù can be made three days ahead and refrigerated. It improves with time.
• •The meatballs can be browned one day ahead and refrigerated.
• •The assembled, unbaked sartù can be refrigerated overnight. Add 15 minutes to the baking time if baking cold.
• •Leftover sartù reheats well. Cover with foil and warm in a 325 degree oven until heated through, about 30 minutes. The crust softens slightly but the interior remains excellent.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 450g)