
Chef Graziella
Asparagi al Forno con Parmigiano
Roasted asparagus finished with aged Parmigiano-Reggiano from the same region that grows the best spears. Four ingredients. No complications. Nothing to hide behind.
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Sage leaves in their thinnest possible coating of batter, fried until shatteringly crisp. A contorno so simple it seems like nothing, until you taste it.
Of all the fried vegetables that appear on Italian tables, salvia fritta is the most honest. There is no technique to hide behind. Either your sage is fresh, your batter is light, your oil is hot, and your timing is precise, or the result tells everyone you have failed.
The batter exists only to create a shell around the sage, not to become the point of the dish. I have seen American recipes that coat sage leaves in thick, bready crusts until you cannot taste the herb at all. This defeats the purpose entirely. The sage should be visible through the coating, its veined surface pressing against the thin golden crust.
Serve these as part of a fritto misto, alongside zucchini flowers and thin-sliced vegetables, or on their own before a simple meal. They are meant to be eaten immediately, standing in the kitchen if necessary. Fried food that waits is fried food that has given up.
Fried sage appears throughout central Italy, from Tuscany to Umbria to the Marche, wherever large-leafed sage grows abundantly in kitchen gardens. The technique belongs to the broader tradition of fritto misto, the mixed fry that transforms humble vegetables into something guests remember. Farm cooks have made salvia fritta for generations, though it rarely appeared in cookbooks because it seemed too simple to write down.
Quantity
40 large (about 2 bunches)
stems attached
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
about 3 cups
for frying
Quantity
for finishing
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| fresh sage leavesstems attached | 40 large (about 2 bunches) |
| all-purpose flour | 1 cup |
| fine sea salt | 1/2 teaspoon |
| cold sparkling water | 1 cup |
| vegetable oil or light olive oilfor frying | about 3 cups |
| flaky sea salt | for finishing |
Examine your sage leaves. You want large, unblemished leaves, each at least two inches long. The small tender leaves at the tips burn too quickly. Leave a bit of stem attached to each leaf for holding when you dip. Lay the leaves on a clean towel and ensure they are completely dry. Water and hot oil are enemies. Any moisture on the leaves will cause dangerous spattering and prevent the batter from adhering.
In a shallow bowl, whisk together the flour and fine sea salt. Add the cold sparkling water all at once and whisk until just combined. The batter should be thin enough to coat the leaves lightly but thick enough to cling. Small lumps are acceptable. Do not overwork the batter or it becomes tough. The cold sparkling water creates a lighter, crispier coating than still water. Make the batter immediately before frying.
Pour oil into a heavy saucepan or deep skillet to a depth of one and a half inches. Heat over medium-high heat until the oil reaches 350 degrees Fahrenheit. If you lack a thermometer, drop a small bit of batter into the oil. It should sink briefly, then rise immediately and sizzle vigorously. If it sits on the surface without sinking, the oil is too hot. If it sinks and stays down, too cool.
Working with five or six leaves at a time, hold each leaf by the stem and dip it into the batter. Let the excess drip off for a moment, then lower the leaf gently into the hot oil. Do not crowd the pan. The leaves should have room to float freely. Fry until the batter is pale gold and crisp, about 45 seconds to one minute. The leaves will stop bubbling vigorously when they are done.
Lift the fried leaves from the oil with a slotted spoon or spider and transfer immediately to a plate lined with paper towels. Sprinkle with flaky sea salt while still hot. The salt must go on immediately while the surface is still slightly oily, or it will not adhere. Continue frying in batches, allowing the oil to return to temperature between each batch.
Arrange the fried sage leaves on a warm serving plate and bring to the table at once. There is no keeping fried food. Within five minutes, the leaves begin to lose their crispness. Within ten, they become leathery. Tell your guests to eat with their fingers, picking up each leaf by the stem. This is proper.
1 serving (about 50g)
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