
Chef Margarida
Cenouras à Algarvia
The marinated carrots of the Algarve, where garlic, paprika, and good azeite transform a humble root into something you'll make every week. Proof that the south knows how to treat vegetables.
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The potato salad of Portuguese summer tables, dressed with azeite and vinegar while still steaming hot. No mayonnaise, no complications. Just potatoes that drink the dressing the way they're supposed to.
This is the salad that shows up at every churrasco, every picnic, every family gathering from June to September. And every time, someone who didn't grow up with it looks at the bowl and asks, "Where's the mayonnaise?"
Nowhere. There is no mayonnaise. A cozinha é memória, and Portuguese memory does not include cold, heavy potato salads bound with something from a jar. We dress our potatoes with azeite and vinegar while they're still hot from the pot, when they're open and thirsty and ready to absorb everything you give them. The result is completely different: lighter, brighter, tasting of olive oil and summer.
Avó Leonor made this for every Sunday lunch when the weather turned warm. She'd cook the potatoes while my grandfather tended the grill, then slice them right there at the kitchen counter, steam rising, and pour the dressing over before they had time to cool. "As batatas têm de beber," she'd say. The potatoes need to drink.
This is peasant simplicity at its finest. Four ingredients doing exactly what they're supposed to do. At Mesa da Avó, I've watched people taste this and finally understand what Portuguese cooking is about: not technique, not fuss, just good ingredients treated with respect. Your grandmother would recognize this. Bring it to your next gathering and watch the bowl empty first.
Warm potato salads dressed with olive oil appear throughout the Mediterranean, but the Portuguese version reflects the country's centuries-old azeite culture. Before the 20th century brought mayonnaise to European tables, this was simply how potatoes were dressed. The tradition persists strongest in rural Portugal, where olive oil remains the only fat worth using and the idea of a cold, creamy potato salad seems foreign.
Quantity
1 kg
Quantity
1 medium
halved and sliced paper-thin
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
1 large bunch
roughly chopped
Quantity
2 cloves
minced
Quantity
1 teaspoon, plus more for cooking water
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| waxy potatoes | 1 kg |
| white onionhalved and sliced paper-thin | 1 medium |
| extra virgin olive oil (azeite) | 1/2 cup |
| red wine vinegar | 3 tablespoons |
| flat-leaf parsley (salsa)roughly chopped | 1 large bunch |
| garlic (optional)minced | 2 cloves |
| flaky sea salt | 1 teaspoon, plus more for cooking water |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
Place the whole, unpeeled potatoes in a large pot and cover with cold water by about 5 centimeters. Add a generous handful of salt. The water should taste like the sea. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce to a steady simmer. Cook until a knife slides easily into the center with no resistance, about 20 to 25 minutes depending on size. The potatoes should be tender throughout but not falling apart.
While the potatoes cook, place the sliced onion in a small bowl of cold water. Let it soak for 10 minutes, then drain and pat dry. This softens the raw bite while keeping the crunch. Some families skip this step and use the onion raw, sharp and assertive. Some cook the onion in the dressing. My grandmother did it this way, in cold water, and I don't argue with what works.
In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, red wine vinegar, and garlic if using. Season with salt and pepper. Taste it. The dressing should be bold because the warm potatoes will absorb and mellow everything. If it tastes perfect now, it will taste bland later.
Drain the potatoes and let them cool just enough to handle, no more than 2 minutes. Working quickly, peel off the skins with a small knife or your fingers (careful, they're hot). Slice into rounds about 1 centimeter thick and arrange in a wide, shallow serving bowl. The slices should overlap casually, not stacked like a restaurant. This is home cooking.
Pour the dressing over the hot potato slices, making sure to reach every layer. Tilt the bowl gently to help the dressing pool at the bottom, then spoon it back over the top. You'll see the potatoes absorb it. That's exactly what you want. Scatter the drained onion over the top.
Add most of the parsley, reserving a handful for the final garnish. Season with more salt and pepper if needed. Let the salad rest at room temperature for at least 15 minutes before serving. This is crucial. The flavors need time to marry. Add the remaining parsley just before bringing to the table. Serve warm or at room temperature, never cold.
1 serving (about 230g)
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