Saeujeot-jjigae (새우젓찌개, Salted Shrimp Stew)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •2-quart ttukbaegi (Korean earthenware pot) or small heavy saucepan
• •Sharp knife and cutting board
• •Measuring spoons
• •Ladle

Instructions

1. 1

   Cut and measure

   Cut the radish into 1/4-inch-thick bite-size slices, the tofu into 1-inch cubes, and the scallions into short lengths. Chop the saeujeot finely before you measure it. Whole salted shrimp hit the tongue in sharp little bursts; chopped shrimp season the broth evenly, which is the whole discipline of this stew.

   Use a clean spoon every time you take saeujeot from the jar, then keep the jar refrigerated. It should smell briny and fermented, not rotten or harsh with ammonia.
2. 2

   Draw the broth

   Put the water and kelp in a ttukbaegi or small heavy pot and set it over medium heat. When small bubbles gather at the bottom and the kelp softens, remove the kelp. Do not boil kelp hard, because it turns the broth slick and bitter. This stew already has the sea in the salted shrimp, so keep the base clean.

3. 3

   Simmer the radish

   Add the radish and onion and simmer gently for 10 to 12 minutes, until the radish edges turn translucent but the pieces still hold their shape. Radish goes in first because it gives sweetness to the broth and tells you when the stew is ready. If the liquid drops below the radish, add 1/2 cup water.

4. 4

   Season in stages

   Stir in 1 tablespoon finely chopped saeujeot and 2 teaspoons saeujeot brine. Simmer 2 minutes before you taste, because the salt needs time to move through the broth. Taste a spoonful with a piece of radish, not broth alone. If it tastes flat, add more brine 1 teaspoon at a time, up to 2 teaspoons. Do not add soy sauce or salt; they make the pot darker and duller.

   Saeujeot varies wildly from jar to jar. Notebook 18 says this: start with the measured spoon, then adjust in teaspoons. That is how the same good stew gets cooked twice.
5. 5

   Add tofu gently

   Slide in the tofu, garlic, and green chili if using. Simmer gently for 4 to 5 minutes, moving the pot with a small shake instead of stirring hard. Tofu should warm through and drink a little broth; rough stirring breaks it into chalky bits.

6. 6

   Finish at table

   Scatter the scallions over the top, turn off the heat, and let the pot sit 2 minutes before serving. The broth should be clear, lightly salty, and sweet from radish, with tiny shrimp settling at the bottom. Ladle from the bottom once in a while so each bowl gets some. Serve with rice, because this jjigae is seasoned for the rice spoon, not for sipping by itself.

Chef Tips

• •Buy saeujeot that looks pale pink-gray and moist, with whole tiny shrimp visible in clean brine. A muddy jar with a harsh smell will make a harsh stew. My teacher would have sent it back without a word.
• •Yukjeot, the June harvest, is prized for kimchi and bossam, but you do not need the most expensive jar for this pot. Chujeot, the autumn harvest, works well in jjigae because the broth gives it room to soften.
• •This stew is not red. Gochugaru can be good in many pots, but here it covers the quiet point of the dish. Let it taste like itself: radish, tofu, kelp, and salted shrimp.
• •If the stew becomes too salty, do not add sugar. Add 1/2 cup water and a few extra pieces of tofu or radish, simmer 3 minutes, then taste again.
• •This is not a dish to make for someone avoiding shellfish. The salted shrimp is not a garnish here; it is the seasoning and the backbone.

Advance Preparation

• •The kelp broth can be made up to 2 days ahead and refrigerated. Remove the kelp before chilling so the broth stays clean.
• •The radish can be cut up to 1 day ahead and kept covered in the refrigerator. Keep the tofu whole in fresh water until you are ready to cut it.
• •The finished stew is best eaten the day it is made. Leftovers keep 2 days refrigerated, but the tofu will absorb salt, so reheat gently with a splash of water.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 430g)