
Chef Jeong-sun
Bibim-mandu (비빔만두, Spicy Mixed Dumplings)
Daegu market flat dumplings, crisp at the edges and soft in the middle, tossed with cold shredded vegetables and a measured gochujang-vinegar sauce that should bite, not bury the cabbage.
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Shrimp dumplings with snap inside the bite, half the shrimp chopped into the pork and tofu filling, half left in pieces so each mandu tastes clearly of the sea.
Saeu-mandu lives or dies by the filling. People worry over the pleats, then forget the inside, and that is backwards. A pretty dumpling with a wet filling is only a well-dressed disappointment. Press the tofu dry. Salt the cabbage and squeeze it hard. Dry the shrimp before the knife touches it.
My teacher made us mix mandu filling by hand, not because she enjoyed cold fingers, though she may have enjoyed watching ours suffer a little. She wanted us to feel when the pork turned tacky and the shrimp held its shape. That tackiness is the binder. The tofu softens the bite, but too much makes the dumpling crumble, so I give you 120 grams and no more.
These are not festival-only mandu. They sit happily at a weeknight table with rice and kimchi, or on a dinner-party plate where people eat too many before the soup arrives. Leave half the shrimp in small pieces, about 1 centimeter, because a dumpling should tell you what is inside without needing an announcement. 손맛 is real. I still measure it, so it can be handed on.
Mandu entered Korean foodways by the Goryeo period, carried through northern and Central Asian routes and later becoming especially important in the colder northern regions where wheat and buckwheat were more common than rice. Korean mandu took many local forms, from large winter dumplings for mandu-guk to smaller steamed and pan-fried versions filled with pork, tofu, kimchi, vegetables, or seafood. Saeu-mandu is a modern home and restaurant variation that suits Korea's coastal markets and the everyday habit of adapting mandu filling to what is fresh.
Quantity
32, about 3 1/2 inches wide
Quantity
300g
deveined
Quantity
180g
Quantity
120g
drained and pressed dry
Quantity
120g
finely chopped
Quantity
1 teaspoon, divided
Quantity
50g
finely chopped
Quantity
2
finely chopped
Quantity
2 cloves
minced
Quantity
1 teaspoon
grated
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
1
Quantity
1 tablespoon
for pan-frying
Quantity
1/2 cup
for pan-frying
Quantity
3 tablespoons
for dipping sauce
Quantity
1 tablespoon
for dipping sauce
Quantity
1 teaspoon
for dipping sauce
Quantity
1 teaspoon
for dipping sauce
Quantity
1
thinly sliced, for dipping sauce
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| round mandu wrappers | 32, about 3 1/2 inches wide |
| raw peeled shrimpdeveined | 300g |
| ground pork | 180g |
| firm tofudrained and pressed dry | 120g |
| napa cabbagefinely chopped | 120g |
| kosher salt | 1 teaspoon, divided |
| garlic chives (buchu)finely chopped | 50g |
| scallionsfinely chopped | 2 |
| garlicminced | 2 cloves |
| fresh gingergrated | 1 teaspoon |
| soy sauce | 1 tablespoon |
| toasted sesame oil | 1 tablespoon |
| potato starch or cornstarch | 1 tablespoon |
| rice wine or mirin | 1 teaspoon |
| ground white pepper | 1/4 teaspoon |
| egg white | 1 |
| neutral oilfor pan-frying | 1 tablespoon |
| waterfor pan-frying | 1/2 cup |
| soy saucefor dipping sauce | 3 tablespoons |
| rice vinegarfor dipping sauce | 1 tablespoon |
| gochugaru (Korean chili flakes) (optional)for dipping sauce | 1 teaspoon |
| toasted sesame seedsfor dipping sauce | 1 teaspoon |
| scallionthinly sliced, for dipping sauce | 1 |
Wrap the tofu in a clean towel and press it under a plate for 15 minutes. Crumble it fine, then squeeze once more in the towel. Tofu gives the filling tenderness, but if it carries water into the wrapper, the mandu will split before it browns.
Toss the chopped napa cabbage with 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt and let it stand 10 minutes. Squeeze it firmly until no more liquid drips. This small step is the difference between a clean filling and a puddle hiding inside the wrapper.
Pat the shrimp dry. Chop half of it finely until it is almost a paste, then cut the other half into small 1 centimeter pieces. The chopped half binds with the pork; the pieces give the dumpling its snap. Do not put it all through a machine, or the filling loses its character.
In a bowl, combine the chopped shrimp, shrimp pieces, pork, pressed tofu, squeezed cabbage, garlic chives, scallions, garlic, ginger, soy sauce, sesame oil, starch, rice wine, white pepper, egg white, and the remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt. Mix with one hand in one direction for 2 full minutes, until the pork turns sticky and the filling clings to the side of the bowl. That tackiness is what keeps the dumpling together.
Place 1 level tablespoon, about 18 grams, of filling in the center of each wrapper. Wet the edge with water, fold into a half-moon, and press out any trapped air before sealing. Pleat if you like, but seal first. Air pockets swell in the pan and open the dumpling.
Heat a wide nonstick or well-seasoned skillet over medium-high heat and add 1 tablespoon neutral oil. Set the mandu in a single layer, flat side down, with a little space between them. Fry 2 to 3 minutes, until the bottoms are golden and crisp. Do this in batches if the pan is small.
Add 1/2 cup water to the pan and cover at once. Cook 6 to 7 minutes, until the wrappers turn translucent and the filling is cooked through. Uncover and let the remaining water cook away, another 2 minutes, so the bottoms crisp again. A mandu should not arrive soggy after all that careful folding.
Stir together 3 tablespoons soy sauce, 1 tablespoon rice vinegar, gochugaru if using, sesame seeds, and sliced scallion. Keep it sharp and simple. The sauce is there to wake up the shrimp, not bury it.
Serve the mandu crisp side up, with the dipping sauce on the side. Eat them while the wrappers still hold their contrast: tender at the top, browned underneath, and springy inside.
1 serving (about 310g)
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