
Chef Dimitra
Aegean Island Katsiki sti Souvla (Κατσίκι στη Σούβλα)
Aegean Easter goat on the spit, lean and full-flavored, turned slowly over charcoal and basted with lemon, oregano, garlic, and good olive oil.
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Roumeli paidakia are thin lamb chops grilled fast over charcoal until the fat blisters, then finished with lemon and oregano after the fire, never before.
Roumeli paidakia sta karvouna are lamb rib chops cut thin and grilled hard over charcoal, the taverna order that arrives piled on a platter with lemon wedges and oregano. They are not a marinade dish. They are lamb, salt, fire, lemon after, and nothing clever standing between them.
The method that decides them is the timing of the oregano and lemon. Put them on before grilling and the oregano scorches while the lemon tightens the meat before the fat has had its chance to blister. Put them on after, while the chops are hot and glossy, and they bloom into the oil and meat juices. That's the whole trick.
Ask the butcher for rib chops cut 1.5-2cm thick, with enough fat left on the edge to crisp. This is Λίγα και καλά, a few things, and good ones. I remember platters like this in the mountain tavernas outside Thessaloniki, bread dragged through lemony oil until the plate was clean. The dish needs no dressing up. Good olive oil, and patience with the coals.
Paidakia belong to the charcoal tavernas of mainland Greece, especially Roumeli and the Attic hasapotavernes, where lamb and kid from pastoral regions were cut small and cooked quickly over embers instead of roasted whole. The famous Vlahika tavernas of Vari helped turn thin grilled chops into an urban ritual in the mid-20th century, carrying shepherd and butcher cooking into the city table. The lemon-and-oregano finish reflects the Greek taverna habit of seasoning grilled meat after the fire, when the herb stays fragrant instead of burning.
Quantity
1.2kg
1.5-2cm thick
Quantity
18g
Quantity
4g
Quantity
30ml
plus a little for finishing
Quantity
2
cut in wedges
Quantity
2 teaspoons
rubbed between the fingers
Quantity
1
halved, for rubbing the platter
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| thin-cut lamb rib chops (paidakia)1.5-2cm thick | 1.2kg |
| fine sea salt | 18g |
| freshly ground black pepper | 4g |
| extra virgin Koroneiki olive oilplus a little for finishing | 30ml |
| lemonscut in wedges | 2 |
| dried Greek oreganorubbed between the fingers | 2 teaspoons |
| garlic clove (optional)halved, for rubbing the platter | 1 |
Lay the paidakia in one layer and salt them on both sides. Leave them at room temperature for 20 minutes while you light the charcoal. The meat should lose its fridge chill, but not sit around lazily. Lamb fat grills better when it isn't ice-cold.
Prepare a hot charcoal fire and let the coals burn until they are glowing red with a thin gray ash. Set the grate close enough that the fat will blister quickly, about 8-10cm above the coals. Paidakia want a hard fire, not a polite one.
Pat the chops dry, then rub them with the olive oil and black pepper. Don't add lemon or oregano yet. Lemon tightens the surface before it browns, and oregano burns over charcoal. After the fire, they taste like themselves.
Grill the chops for 3-4 minutes on the first side, until the fat edges blister and the meat has dark grill marks. Turn and grill another 2-3 minutes. Stand the chops briefly on their fatty edge with tongs if they need help rendering. You want browned meat, crisp fat, and a rosy center.
Rub a warm platter with the cut garlic if using. Pile on the paidakia, squeeze over lemon, scatter with rubbed oregano, and finish with a small thread of olive oil. Rest them 3 minutes, just enough for the juices to settle. Serve at once, with bread for the oil and juices.
1 serving (about 175g)
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