Roumeli Paidakia Sta Karvouna (Παϊδάκια στα Κάρβουνα)

Roumeli paidakia sta karvouna are lamb rib chops cut thin and grilled hard over charcoal, the taverna order that arrives piled on a platter with lemon wedges and oregano. They are not a marinade dish. They are lamb, salt, fire, lemon after, and nothing clever standing between them.

The method that decides them is the timing of the oregano and lemon. Put them on before grilling and the oregano scorches while the lemon tightens the meat before the fat has had its chance to blister. Put them on after, while the chops are hot and glossy, and they bloom into the oil and meat juices. That's the whole trick.

Ask the butcher for rib chops cut 1.5-2cm thick, with enough fat left on the edge to crisp. This is Λίγα και καλά, a few things, and good ones. I remember platters like this in the mountain tavernas outside Thessaloniki, bread dragged through lemony oil until the plate was clean. The dish needs no dressing up. Good olive oil, and patience with the coals.