Roumeli Lamb Exohiko (Αρνί Εξοχικό Ρούμελης)

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •30 x 40cm rimmed roasting pan or metal tapsi
• •two large sheets baking parchment, about 45 x 60cm each
• •pastry brush
• •kitchen twine or metal clips for holding the parchment closed

Instructions

1. 1

   Season the lamb

   Put the lamb or goat in a large bowl with 10g of the salt, the oregano, black pepper, garlic, wine, lemon juice, and 60ml of the olive oil. Turn everything well with your hands, then leave it for 30 minutes at room temperature while you prepare the vegetables. If your kitchen is hot, cover it and put it in the refrigerator.

2. 2

   Dress the vegetables

   In a second bowl, toss the potatoes, peppers, onion, and tomatoes with the remaining 6g salt and 30ml olive oil. The tomato should be ripe and seeded, not watery. Outside summer, drained canned tomato is the better choice. A hard pale tomato brings nothing to the parcel.

3. 3

   Lay the phyllo

   Heat the oven to 170C, or 160C fan. Set two large sheets of baking parchment crosswise in a 30 x 40cm roasting pan, leaving long overhangs. Brush one sheet of phyllo lightly with olive oil and lay it over the parchment. Repeat with the remaining phyllo, turning the sheets as you go so the overhangs cover all sides. Keep any phyllo you are not touching under a barely damp towel.

4. 4

   Fill and seal

   Mix the lamb and vegetables together, then pile them in the center of the phyllo with the bowl juices. Tuck the cubes of graviera or kefalotyri between the meat and potatoes. Fold the phyllo over the filling, brushing dry edges with a little oil, then fold the parchment tightly over the whole parcel and crimp the edges upward. The tight seal is the dish. It traps the lamb's own juices long enough for the shoulder to soften; a loose packet lets the liquid run off before the meat is ready.

   Do not add extra wine or stock. Exohiko wants enough liquid to cook itself, not enough to boil the phyllo tired.
5. 5

   Bake sealed

   Bake the closed parcel for 1 hour 45 minutes. Open one corner carefully and test a piece of lamb and a potato with a fork. The meat should give without argument and the potato should be soft through the center. If either resists, close the parchment again and bake for another 15 to 20 minutes.

6. 6

   Crisp the pastry

   Raise the oven to 200C, or 190C fan. Open the parchment back from the top of the parcel, leaving the sides cupped so the juices stay in the pan. Brush the exposed phyllo with the remaining olive oil and bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until the top is deep gold and the folded edges are crisp.

7. 7

   Rest and serve

   Let the exohiko rest for 15 minutes before cutting. Scatter with parsley, add a final thin thread of olive oil if the surface looks dry, and bring it to the table in the opened paper. Spoon the glossy juices over each serving and pass lemon wedges beside it.

Chef Tips

• •Choose lamb or goat shoulder, neck, or another working cut with a little fat. Leg can work, but it is leaner and less forgiving. Λίγα και καλά: better a smaller piece of good shoulder than a large dry roast.
• •Use ripe tomatoes only in season. Outside summer, drained canned chopped tomatoes are more honest than a hard tomato, and this dish needs just their acidity and color.
• •Kefalotyri and aged sheep's graviera hold their shape better than soft white cheese. Feta tastes good, yes, but it collapses into the juices and can make the whole packet too salty.
• •The phyllo under the filling will be tender from the juices. That is normal. The top and folded edges are the crisp part, and the sauce underneath is why people tear bread at the table.
• •Serve exohiko with boiled greens, a sharp cabbage salad, or horiatiki when tomatoes are truly in season. The parcel is rich, so the table needs something bitter or bright beside it.

Advance Preparation

• •Thaw the phyllo overnight in the refrigerator, still wrapped, then bring it to cool room temperature before opening so the sheets do not crack.
• •Season the lamb with the garlic, oregano, wine, lemon, 10g salt, and 60ml olive oil up to 12 hours ahead. Keep it covered in the refrigerator.
• •Cut the peppers, onion, cheese, and tomatoes up to 4 hours ahead. Cut the potatoes just before assembling, or hold them covered in cold water and dry them well.
• •Assemble the parcel close to baking. If it waits too long, the raw filling softens the phyllo before the oven has a chance to do its work.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 535g)