Roumeli Kokoretsi (Κοκορέτσι Ρουμελιώτικο)

Roumeli kokoretsi is the Easter spit before the lamb, the first serious bite after Lent: seasoned lamb offal wrapped in caul fat and clean intestines, roasted until the outside crisps and the inside stays rich. In the mountain and plains villages of Central Greece, this is not a side show. It is the impatient hunger of Easter Sunday made respectable by skill.

The wrapping is the whole truth. Thread the offal evenly, cover it with caul fat, then wind the intestines tight enough to make a compact cylinder. That casing holds the pieces together, protects them from drying, and becomes the crisp salty skin everyone reaches for first. Wind it loosely and you haven't made kokoretsi, you've made a lesson for next year.

I give you exact amounts because offal forgives less than a bean pot. Still, the old rule stands: buy from a butcher you trust, rinse with care, and keep the fire steady. Good olive oil, good oregano, and patience. Your grandmother cooked by eye because she'd made it a thousand times. Here are the numbers until you have.