
Chef Dimitra
Aegean Island Katsiki sti Souvla (Κατσίκι στη Σούβλα)
Aegean Easter goat on the spit, lean and full-flavored, turned slowly over charcoal and basted with lemon, oregano, garlic, and good olive oil.
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Roumeli kokoretsi is Easter's offal spit, lamb liver, heart, lungs, and sweetbreads wrapped tight in intestines, roasted until the casing crisps and the middle stays juicy.
Roumeli kokoretsi is the Easter spit before the lamb, the first serious bite after Lent: seasoned lamb offal wrapped in caul fat and clean intestines, roasted until the outside crisps and the inside stays rich. In the mountain and plains villages of Central Greece, this is not a side show. It is the impatient hunger of Easter Sunday made respectable by skill.
The wrapping is the whole truth. Thread the offal evenly, cover it with caul fat, then wind the intestines tight enough to make a compact cylinder. That casing holds the pieces together, protects them from drying, and becomes the crisp salty skin everyone reaches for first. Wind it loosely and you haven't made kokoretsi, you've made a lesson for next year.
I give you exact amounts because offal forgives less than a bean pot. Still, the old rule stands: buy from a butcher you trust, rinse with care, and keep the fire steady. Good olive oil, good oregano, and patience. Your grandmother cooked by eye because she'd made it a thousand times. Here are the numbers until you have.
Kokoretsi belongs to the Easter lamb-roasting culture of mainland Greece, especially Roumeli, Thessaly, and Epirus, where sheep and goat offal were cooked first while the larger animal turned for hours. Related wrapped-intestine dishes appear across the Balkans and Asia Minor, but the Greek Easter version is tied to the end of the Lenten fast and the practical rule of using the whole animal. Its close cousin, gardoumpa, is usually smaller and cooked in the oven or pot rather than on the long outdoor spit.
Quantity
1.2kg
liver, heart, lungs, sweetbreads, and spleen if available
Quantity
350g
rinsed
Quantity
10m
rinsed thoroughly
Quantity
45ml
Quantity
18g
Quantity
6g
Quantity
4g
Quantity
3g
Quantity
2
one juiced and one cut into wedges
Quantity
30ml
for rinsing
Quantity
2
for blanching
Quantity
1
halved, for blanching
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| mixed lamb offalliver, heart, lungs, sweetbreads, and spleen if available | 1.2kg |
| lamb caul fat (μπόλια)rinsed | 350g |
| cleaned lamb intestines (έντερα)rinsed thoroughly | 10m |
| extra virgin Koroneiki olive oil | 45ml |
| fine sea salt | 18g |
| freshly ground black pepper | 6g |
| dried Greek oregano | 4g |
| sweet paprika | 3g |
| lemonsone juiced and one cut into wedges | 2 |
| white wine vinegarfor rinsing | 30ml |
| bay leavesfor blanching | 2 |
| small onionhalved, for blanching | 1 |
Rinse the intestines under cold running water, inside and out, until the water runs clear. Rub them gently with the vinegar and the juice of one lemon, then rinse again and keep them in cold water while you work. Buy them cleaned from a serious butcher. This is not the place for romance.
Bring a large pot of water to a boil with the bay leaves and onion. Add the offal and blanch for 6 minutes, just until it firms and the surface dulls. Drain, cool enough to handle, then cut everything into pieces about 3cm wide.
Toss the offal with the olive oil, salt, pepper, oregano, and paprika. Let it stand for 20 minutes while you set up the spit. The seasoning should smell clean and lamby, not perfumed. Kokoretsi is offal, fire, salt, and oregano. Λίγα και καλά.
Thread the offal tightly onto the spit, alternating liver, heart, lung, and sweetbread so the leaner pieces are protected by the richer ones. Shape it into an even cylinder about 8cm thick. Wrap the caul fat around the meat, then wind the intestines over it in close, firm spirals, first lengthwise and then around the body. This wrapping decides the dish: snug casing holds the juices in place and crisps into a salty skin. Loose wrapping opens, dries, and drops its treasure into the coals.
Set the spit over medium coals, about 25cm above the heat, and turn steadily for 35 minutes. The outside should tighten and begin to color without scorching. If flames lick up, move the coals aside or raise the spit. Fat should drip, not burn black.
Lower the spit closer to the coals and roast for 60 to 75 minutes more, turning all the time, until the casing is deep brown and crisp and the center reaches 74C. Rest it for 10 minutes before cutting. Slice into thick coins and serve with lemon wedges while the outside still crackles under the knife.
1 serving (about 180g)
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