
Chef Dimitra
Aegean Island Katsiki sti Souvla (Κατσίκι στη Σούβλα)
Aegean Easter goat on the spit, lean and full-flavored, turned slowly over charcoal and basted with lemon, oregano, garlic, and good olive oil.
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Roumeli's arni kleftiko is lamb and potatoes sealed in paper with lemon, garlic and oregano, slow-baked until the meat gives up the bone and the potatoes drink the juices.
Arni kleftiko tis Roumelis is lamb sealed in paper with potatoes, garlic, lemon, and oregano, then baked until the meat slides from the bone. The region is the dish's surname: mountain Roumeli gives it its old shape, plain and hidden, with the flavor trapped inside the parcel instead of sent up the chimney.
The whole dish depends on the seal. Close the parchment tightly and the lamb cooks in its own juices, while the potatoes soften underneath and take the lemon, garlic, and oil into themselves. Leave gaps and you've made roasted lamb in paper, which is not the same pot of memory.
I keep this version spare because that's how the dish makes sense. Lamb with bone, good potatoes, Greek oregano, lemon, and oil. Liga kai kala, a few things, and good ones. Your oven does the long work, and you only need the patience not to keep checking.
Kleftiko is tied to the mountains of Roumeli and the Peloponnese, where the klephts, armed Greek groups living outside Ottoman control, are said to have cooked lamb in sealed earth pits so smoke would not reveal them. The old buried cooking became the closed household parcel, first with dough or leaves in some places and now commonly with parchment in the oven. The name comes from klephtis, thief, but in Greek kitchens the dish remembers concealment, patience, and meat cooked in its own juices.
Quantity
1.8kg
cut into 6 large pieces by the butcher
Quantity
1.2kg
peeled and cut into thick wedges
Quantity
2 medium
thickly sliced
Quantity
8
5 slivered and 3 finely grated
Quantity
80ml
Quantity
80ml
Quantity
60ml
Quantity
18g
Quantity
2 tsp
plus a little more for finishing
Quantity
1 tsp
Quantity
2
Quantity
1
cut into wedges
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| bone-in lamb shouldercut into 6 large pieces by the butcher | 1.8kg |
| yellow potatoespeeled and cut into thick wedges | 1.2kg |
| yellow onionsthickly sliced | 2 medium |
| garlic cloves5 slivered and 3 finely grated | 8 |
| extra virgin Koroneiki olive oil | 80ml |
| fresh lemon juice | 80ml |
| dry white wine or water | 60ml |
| fine sea salt | 18g |
| dried Greek oreganoplus a little more for finishing | 2 tsp |
| freshly ground black pepper | 1 tsp |
| bay leaves | 2 |
| lemon (optional)cut into wedges | 1 |
Pat the lamb dry. Make small cuts in the meat with the tip of a knife and tuck in the garlic slivers. Rub the lamb with the grated garlic, 40ml olive oil, 40ml lemon juice, 10g salt, the oregano, and the pepper. Let it stand while you prepare the potatoes, or cover and chill it up to overnight.
Heat the oven to 160C. Toss the potato wedges and sliced onions with the remaining 40ml olive oil, remaining 40ml lemon juice, the wine or water, the remaining 8g salt, and the bay leaves. The potatoes should be cut thick, because they have three slow hours ahead of them.
Lay two large sheets of baking parchment in a cross inside a roasting tin, then add a second cross if your paper is thin. Spread the potatoes and onions in the middle and set the lamb pieces on top. Pour over every drop from the bowl.
Fold the parchment up over the lamb and crimp the seams hard, like you're closing a letter that must not open. Tie with kitchen string if needed, then cover the outside with foil, keeping the parchment against the food. This seal is the dish. If it leaks, the lamb roasts dry instead of cooking slowly in its own juices, and the potatoes never drink the lemon and garlic properly.
Bake for 3 hours at 160C without opening the parcel. Leave it alone. Good olive oil, and patience. The lamb is ready for the next step when a skewer slips into the thickest piece with almost no resistance.
Raise the oven to 220C. Open the foil and parchment carefully, folding the paper back to expose the lamb and potatoes. Bake uncovered for 20 to 30 minutes, until the edges are browned, the potatoes are glossy with the juices, and the lamb gives at the bone.
Rest the kleftiko for 15 minutes before serving. Spoon the lemony pan juices over the meat, crumble a little dried oregano between your fingers, and bring it to the table with lemon wedges. No ceremony. The paper opens, the room goes quiet, and then everyone reaches in.
1 serving (about 500g)
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