
Chef Elsa
Eiersalat (Austrian Egg Salad)
Cool, creamy Austrian egg salad with sour gherkins and tart apple in a mustard-yogurt dressing, the kind of honest Jause food that tastes like an Austrian Easter table and works beautifully all year round.
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Matjes herring folded into beetroot, apple, potato, and gherkins in a creamy dressing that blushes vivid pink overnight, the dish that sits on every Austrian Silvester table because the new year deserves good luck and good food.
Every Silvester, my grandmother Eva's kitchen in Kent turned pink. Not from decorations. From Heringssalat. Gretel would arrive on the 30th of December with a jar of Matjesheringe and a bag of beetroot, and by the time they were finished, there was a big ceramic bowl sitting in the fridge, covered in cling film, quietly turning the most extraordinary shade of magenta. You weren't allowed to touch it until New Year's Eve. The waiting was part of it.
Roter Heringssalat is one of those dishes that sounds strange if you haven't grown up with it. Salt-cured herring, beetroot, apple, potato, gherkins, all diced small and folded into a creamy dressing that the beetroot stains a shocking, joyful pink. It tastes better than it has any right to. The herring is briny and rich. The beetroot is sweet and earthy. The apple cuts through with something sharp and fresh. The potato holds everything together, and the gherkins add that vinegar snap that keeps you reaching for another forkful. It's a salad that could only have been invented by people who understood how to make simple ingredients talk to each other.
You must make this the day before you plan to eat it. That's not a suggestion, it's the whole point. The overnight rest lets the beetroot juice bleed into the dressing, turning everything that vivid pink, and it lets every piece of potato and apple and herring absorb the flavors around it. What you taste on New Year's Eve is not six separate ingredients. It's one thing, and it's magnificent.
In Austria, eating herring at midnight on Silvester brings luck for the new year. I don't know if that's true, but I've never been willing to risk finding out. This bowl has been on my table every 31st of December since I can remember, and it will be there again this year.
Eating herring at the stroke of midnight on Silvester has been an Austrian and Central European tradition for centuries, rooted in the belief that fish scales resemble coins and bring financial luck for the coming year. Roter Heringssalat, with its distinctive beetroot staining, became the preferred form across Austria and parts of the former Habsburg lands, likely because beetroot stored well through winter and the salad could be prepared a full day ahead of the celebration. The dish shares roots with similar preparations in Scandinavian, Polish, and northern German kitchens, but the Austrian version is distinguished by its use of Sauerrahm in the dressing and the tradition of serving it alongside Sekt and Frankfurter Würstchen as part of the Silvester buffet.
Quantity
4 fillets (about 250g)
drained and patted dry
Quantity
500g (about 3 medium)
unpeeled
Quantity
300g (about 2 medium)
unpeeled
Quantity
1 large
Quantity
4 small (about 100g)
Quantity
1 small
Quantity
2
hard-boiled and peeled
Quantity
150g
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
for finishing
finely cut
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| Matjesheringsfilets (Matjes herring fillets)drained and patted dry | 4 fillets (about 250g) |
| beetroot (Rote Rüben)unpeeled | 500g (about 3 medium) |
| festkochende (waxy) potatoesunpeeled | 300g (about 2 medium) |
| tart apple (Boskop or Granny Smith) | 1 large |
| Essiggurkerln (pickled gherkins) | 4 small (about 100g) |
| red onion | 1 small |
| eggshard-boiled and peeled | 2 |
| Sauerrahm (sour cream) | 150g |
| good mayonnaise | 2 tablespoons |
| Apfelessig (apple cider vinegar) | 2 tablespoons |
| prepared Kren (horseradish) | 1 teaspoon |
| medium-hot mustard | 1 teaspoon |
| granulated sugar | 1 teaspoon |
| salt and freshly ground black pepper | to taste |
| beetroot cooking liquid | 2 tablespoons |
| fresh chives (optional)finely cut | for finishing |
Place the unpeeled beetroot in a pot, cover with cold water, add a pinch of salt, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 40 to 50 minutes until a knife slides in without resistance. In a separate pot, boil the unpeeled potatoes in salted water for about 20 minutes until just tender. You want them cooked through but still holding their shape. Festkochende, waxy potatoes, are essential here. Floury potatoes will crumble into the dressing and turn the whole salad into mush. Drain both and let them cool enough to handle, then peel. Reserve two tablespoons of the beetroot cooking liquid before you pour it away.
Cut the cooled beetroot into small, even dice, roughly one centimeter. Do the same with the potatoes. The size matters. You want every forkful to contain a bit of everything, so uniformity is what you're after. Dice the Essiggurkerln to the same size. Peel and core the apple and dice it the same way. Peel the red onion and chop it very fine, almost to a mince. Cut the Matjesheringsfilets into pieces about the same size as your beetroot dice. Dice the hard-boiled eggs last. Keep the beetroot on a separate board or plate until you're ready to combine. It stains everything it touches and you want the pink to happen in the bowl, not on your cutting board.
In a large bowl, whisk together the Sauerrahm, mayonnaise, Apfelessig, Kren, mustard, and sugar until smooth. Season with salt and pepper. The dressing should taste slightly too sharp and too salty at this stage. It's going to absorb into all those diced vegetables and the herring overnight, and flavors dull as they sit. If it tastes perfectly seasoned now, it will taste flat tomorrow. Add the two tablespoons of beetroot cooking liquid and stir. This gives the dressing a head start on its journey toward pink.
Add the potatoes, Essiggurkerln, apple, onion, herring, and hard-boiled egg to the dressing. Fold gently with a large spoon, turning from the bottom. Add the beetroot last. The moment it goes in, the pink begins. Fold it through until every piece is coated in dressing and the color starts to shift. Don't stir roughly. The potatoes and eggs will break apart if you handle them like you're mixing concrete. Gentle, deliberate folds. Five or six turns of the spoon should do it.
Press cling film directly onto the surface of the salad, not across the top of the bowl, but touching the salad itself. This prevents a skin from forming on the dressing. Refrigerate for at least twelve hours, overnight is ideal. When you open the fridge the next day, the transformation will have happened. What went in as a pale pink mixture will have become a vivid, almost electric magenta. The potatoes and apple will have absorbed the beetroot juice and the herring brine, and every piece will taste like it belongs with every other piece. This is good Austrian home cooking at its most patient.
Give the salad a gentle stir. Taste once more and adjust seasoning if needed. It may want another pinch of salt or a few drops of vinegar after its night in the fridge. Spoon into a serving bowl or onto individual plates. Scatter finely cut chives across the top. Serve cold, straight from the fridge, with dark bread or a Semmel alongside. This is Silvester food. It sits on the buffet table next to the Sekt and the Frankfurter Würstchen, and people come back to it all night. Mahlzeit!
1 serving (about 240g)
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