
Chef Margarida
Azeitonas Temperadas
The marinated olives that sit on every tasca table in Portugal, swimming in garlic, herbs, and enough azeite to make you reach for bread before you've even ordered. This is how we begin.
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The shrimp turnover that appears at every Portuguese celebration, proof that when French béchamel met Portuguese hospitality, something perfect was born. Crispy shell, creamy filling, no occasion too small.
If you've ever been to a Portuguese party, a baptism, a wedding, a birthday, you've seen the plate of rissóis. Golden half-moons piled high, still warm from frying, disappearing faster than you can refill the tray. This is the petisco that says someone cared enough to make something by hand.
Rissóis are a labor of love. I won't pretend otherwise. The dough, the filling, the shaping, the breading, the frying. It takes time. But here's what I've learned from the grandmothers I've documented across Portugal: they never apologize for dishes that take time. Time is how you show love. When Avó Leonor made rissóis, the whole family gathered in the kitchen. My cousins and I would shape them while she managed the frying. Three generations around the table, hands busy, stories flowing. That's the tradition inside the tradition.
The technique is French. Béchamel wrapped in dough, breaded and fried. But the soul is Portuguese. We took that idea and made it ours, filling it with camarão from our coasts, adding a whisper of lemon zest to the dough, perfecting the ratio of crispy shell to creamy center. Every tasca in Lisbon serves them. Every grandmother has her method. And now you'll have yours.
These freeze beautifully, which makes them perfect for entertaining. Shape and bread them, freeze on a tray, then bag them. Fry straight from frozen, adding a minute to the cooking time. A freezer full of rissóis means you're always ready for guests.
Rissóis arrived in Portugal through French culinary influence, likely during the 19th century when French cuisine dominated European aristocratic kitchens. The Portuguese transformed the concept into a street food and home celebration staple. The name derives from the French 'rissole,' but the shrimp filling and characteristic half-moon shape are distinctly Portuguese innovations.
Quantity
400g
peeled and deveined, shells reserved
Quantity
2 cups
Quantity
1
Quantity
4 tablespoons
Quantity
1 small
minced very fine
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
finely chopped
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
1 1/2 cups
Quantity
4 tablespoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
from 1/2 lemon
Quantity
1 3/4 cups
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
3 large
beaten
Quantity
2 cups
Quantity
for deep frying
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| raw shrimppeeled and deveined, shells reserved | 400g |
| water (for shrimp stock) | 2 cups |
| bay leaf | 1 |
| butter (for filling) | 4 tablespoons |
| onionminced very fine | 1 small |
| all-purpose flour (for filling) | 3 tablespoons |
| whole milk | 1/2 cup |
| reserved shrimp cooking liquid | 1/2 cup |
| fresh lemon juice | 1 tablespoon |
| fresh parsleyfinely chopped | 1 tablespoon |
| salt and white pepper | to taste |
| water (for dough) | 1 1/2 cups |
| butter (for dough) | 4 tablespoons |
| salt (for dough) | 1 teaspoon |
| lemon zest | from 1/2 lemon |
| all-purpose flour (for dough) | 1 3/4 cups |
| all-purpose flour (for breading) | 1 cup |
| eggsbeaten | 3 large |
| fine dry breadcrumbs | 2 cups |
| vegetable oil | for deep frying |
In a small pot, combine the reserved shrimp shells with 2 cups of water and the bay leaf. Bring to a simmer and cook for 15 minutes. This is flavor you'd otherwise throw away. Strain and set aside. You'll need half a cup for the béchamel.
Poach the peeled shrimp in the strained stock for 2 to 3 minutes until just pink and curled. Remove with a slotted spoon and let cool. Chop into small pieces, about the size of a chickpea. Not too fine or you lose the texture. Not too large or they'll tear through the dough.
Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the minced onion and cook until soft and translucent, about 5 minutes. No color. Add the flour and stir constantly for 2 minutes to cook out the raw taste. Slowly whisk in the milk and then the shrimp stock. Keep whisking until the mixture thickens into a very thick béchamel, about 5 minutes. It should be thicker than a normal sauce, almost like a paste. Stir in the chopped shrimp, lemon juice, and parsley. Season with salt and white pepper. Spread on a plate, cover with plastic touching the surface, and refrigerate until completely cold, at least 1 hour.
In a saucepan, combine the water, butter, salt, and lemon zest. Bring to a full boil over medium-high heat. The moment it boils, remove from heat and add all the flour at once. Stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until the dough comes together and pulls away from the sides of the pan. It will look rough at first, then smooth. Turn onto a lightly floured surface and knead briefly until uniform. Wrap in plastic and let rest for 15 minutes.
Roll the dough on a floured surface to about 2mm thick. It should be thin enough to fold without cracking but thick enough to hold the filling. Cut rounds using a 10cm (4-inch) cutter or the rim of a glass. Gather and re-roll the scraps. You should get about 24 rounds.
Place a heaping tablespoon of the cold filling in the center of each round. Fold the dough over to form a half-moon. Press the edges firmly with your fingers, then crimp with the tines of a fork to seal. The seal is critical. Any gaps and the filling will escape during frying. Work on a lightly floured surface and keep finished rissóis covered so they don't dry out.
Set up three shallow dishes: flour in the first, beaten eggs in the second, breadcrumbs in the third. Dredge each rissól in flour, shaking off excess. Dip in egg, letting the excess drip off. Roll in breadcrumbs, pressing gently so they adhere. Place on a tray lined with parchment. Repeat with all rissóis.
Heat oil in a deep pot or fryer to 180°C (350°F). Fry the rissóis in batches of 4 or 5, turning once, until deep golden brown on all sides, about 3 minutes total. Don't crowd the pot or the temperature will drop and the coating will absorb oil. Drain on paper towels. Serve hot.
1 rissóis (about 50g)
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