
Chef Graziella
Arancini di Riso alla Siciliana
Golden fried rice balls from Sicily, where Arab cooks first wrapped saffron-scented rice around meat and cheese. The exterior shatters; the interior yields. This is street food elevated to art.
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The elegant bitter radicchio of Treviso, sliced thin and stirred into rice until its ruby color bleeds through every grain. Venetian winter cooking at its most refined, where bitterness becomes virtue.
The Veneto understands bitterness in a way Americans do not. Where others would mask it, Venetians celebrate it. Radicchio di Treviso, with its long spears of ruby and white, transforms this risotto into something that lingers in the memory. The color alone stops you: deep wine-red staining the rice, fading to rose at the edges.
This is not the round radicchio you find in supermarket salad mixes. Treviso radicchio is elongated, elegant, with crisp white ribs and leaves the color of old Burgundy. It has been cultivated in the fields around Treviso since the sixteenth century, and the forcing technique that creates its pale heart developed over generations of patient experimentation. Do not substitute. If you cannot find the proper radicchio, make a different risotto.
The bitterness mellows with heat but never disappears. It provides counterpoint to the butter and cheese, cutting through richness the way good wine cuts through fat. What you keep out matters here: no cream, no excessive garlic, no stock cubes. The rice, the radicchio, and the technique. That is all you need.
Radicchio di Treviso received its Protected Geographical Indication in 1996, but its cultivation predates Columbus. The distinctive forcing technique, called imbiancatura, emerged in the 1860s when Treviso farmers discovered that covering the plants and immersing them in spring water produced sweeter, more tender leaves with those characteristic pale ribs. Winter markets in Treviso still overflow with bundles of these ruby spears, and every household has a preferred method for this risotto.
Quantity
1 pound (about 2 large heads)
Quantity
6 cups
kept at a simmer
Quantity
4 tablespoons
divided
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 medium
minced fine
Quantity
1 1/2 cups
Quantity
3/4 cup
Quantity
1/2 cup
freshly grated, plus more for serving
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| radicchio di Treviso | 1 pound (about 2 large heads) |
| homemade brothkept at a simmer | 6 cups |
| unsalted butterdivided | 4 tablespoons |
| extra virgin olive oil | 2 tablespoons |
| shallotminced fine | 1 medium |
| Vialone Nano or Carnaroli rice | 1 1/2 cups |
| dry white wine | 3/4 cup |
| Parmigiano-Reggianofreshly grated, plus more for serving | 1/2 cup |
| kosher salt | to taste |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
Remove any damaged outer leaves from the radicchio. Cut each head in half lengthwise, then slice crosswise into ribbons about half an inch wide. The white ribs will take longer to cook than the leaves, so keep your slices consistent. Set aside roughly one third of the radicchio to add later in cooking. This portion will retain more color and a pleasant bite.
Bring the broth to a gentle simmer in a saucepan and keep it warm over low heat. Cold broth shocks the rice and interrupts the cooking. This is not optional. The broth must be hot when it meets the rice.
In a heavy-bottomed pot or deep sauté pan, heat 2 tablespoons of the butter with the olive oil over medium heat. When the butter foam subsides, add the minced shallot. Cook slowly, stirring occasionally, until the shallot is soft and translucent, about 4 minutes. It must not brown.
Add two thirds of the sliced radicchio to the pot. It will seem like a great quantity. Stir to coat with the fat and cook until the leaves wilt completely and the white ribs begin to soften, about 5 minutes. The radicchio will release liquid, then reabsorb it. The color will deepen. This first batch of radicchio will meld completely into the risotto, giving it depth.
Add the rice all at once and stir it thoroughly for 2 minutes. You must coat every grain with the fat. Listen for a faint crackling sound. The grains should become translucent at the edges while remaining opaque at the center. This toasting step creates the foundation for proper risotto texture.
Pour in the wine all at once. It will sizzle and steam. Stir constantly until the wine is completely absorbed and you can no longer smell raw alcohol. The pot should be nearly dry before you proceed. This takes about 2 minutes.
Begin adding the hot broth one ladleful at a time, stirring frequently. Wait until each addition is nearly absorbed before adding the next. The rice should never swim in liquid, nor should it stick to the pan. Adjust your heat to maintain a steady, gentle simmer. This process takes approximately 16 to 18 minutes. Taste the rice after 15 minutes.
When the rice is nearly tender but still has a firm core, add the reserved radicchio. Stir to combine and continue adding broth. The radicchio added now will retain its color and a slight crunch. Cook another 2 to 3 minutes until the rice is al dente: tender but with pleasant resistance at the center of each grain.
Remove the pot from heat. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter and the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. Stir vigorously for one minute. This is the mantecatura, the final enriching that gives risotto its characteristic creaminess. No cream is needed. The butter and cheese do this work. Season with salt and pepper, remembering that the cheese is salty. The risotto should flow in waves when you shake the pan. Italians call this all'onda.
Spoon the risotto onto warm plates, spreading it gently so it flows outward. Do not mound it. Once the pasta is sauced, serve it promptly, inviting your guests and family to put off talking and start eating. Risotto waits for no one. Pass additional Parmigiano at the table for those who want it.
1 serving (about 320g)
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