Risotto ai Frutti di Mare

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Heavy 12-inch braiser or wide sauté pan
• •Large pot with lid for steaming shellfish
• •Fine-mesh sieve lined with cheesecloth
• •Ladle for adding broth
• •Medium saucepan for keeping broth hot

Instructions

1. 1

   Steam the shellfish

   Place the mussels and clams in a large pot with half the wine and a cup of water. Cover and cook over high heat, shaking the pot occasionally, until the shells open. This takes 4 to 6 minutes. Remove them as they open. Discard any that refuse. Strain the cooking liquid through a fine-mesh sieve lined with cheesecloth. Reserve this precious liquor. Remove most shellfish from their shells, leaving a few in shell for presentation.

   The liquid from steaming shellfish contains concentrated sea flavor. Losing it through carelessness is unforgivable. Strain it well to remove any grit.
2. 2

   Prepare the broth

   Combine the fish stock, reserved shellfish liquid, and shrimp shells in a saucepan. Bring to a simmer and cook for 15 minutes. Strain and discard the shells. Keep the enriched broth at a bare simmer. If using saffron, add it to the warm broth now. The broth must stay hot throughout the cooking. Cold broth added to risotto stops the cooking and results in chalky rice.

3. 3

   Build the soffritto

   In a heavy, wide pan or braiser, warm the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until completely soft and translucent, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic and peperoncino. Cook for one minute only. The garlic must not brown. If it does, start over.

   Two cloves of garlic for six servings is sufficient. I know Americans want more. Resist. The seafood should taste of the sea, not of garlic.
4. 4

   Toast the rice

   Add the rice to the soffritto all at once and stir thoroughly for 2 minutes. Every grain must be coated with the hot fat. The rice will become translucent at the edges while remaining opaque at the center. You should hear a gentle sizzling. This toasting creates the foundation for proper texture.

5. 5

   Add the wine

   Pour in the remaining wine. It will hiss and steam dramatically. Stir constantly until the wine has evaporated completely. You should no longer smell raw alcohol, only the fragrance of the wine mingled with the rice. The pan should be nearly dry before you proceed.

6. 6

   Cook the risotto

   Begin adding the hot broth one ladleful at a time, stirring frequently. Wait until each addition is nearly absorbed before adding the next. The rice should always be moist but never swimming. Maintain a gentle simmer. This takes approximately 16 to 18 minutes. There are no shortcuts. You cannot walk away.

   Risotto demands your presence at the stove. This is not a dish for the distracted cook. Put down your telephone.
7. 7

   Add the squid

   When the rice is about 5 minutes from being done, add the squid rings and tentacles to the risotto. Stir them in and continue cooking with the rice. Squid needs only brief cooking. Two minutes too long and it becomes rubber. Two minutes too short and it is chewy. Pay attention.

8. 8

   Add the remaining seafood

   When the rice is tender but retains a slight firmness at the center (taste it, that is the only way to know), add the shrimp. Cook for 2 minutes, stirring, until they turn pink and curl. Add the reserved mussels and clams to warm through, about 1 minute more.

9. 9

   Finish with mantecatura

   Remove the pan from heat. Add the butter, half the parsley, and the lemon zest. Stir vigorously until the butter is absorbed and the risotto becomes creamy and flowing. This is the mantecatura, the final enrichment that defines proper risotto. Season with salt and pepper. The consistency should be loose enough to spread slightly on the plate. Italians call this all'onda, like a wave.

   No cheese. Never cheese with seafood risotto. This is not my opinion. This is Italian law. Parmigiano would overwhelm the delicate flavor of the sea.
10. 10

    Serve immediately

    Spoon the risotto onto warm plates, arranging the shellfish in shells on top if you saved them. Scatter the remaining parsley over all. Serve at once. Once the risotto is plated, invite your guests and family to put off talking and start eating. Risotto waits for no one.

Chef Tips

• •Vialone Nano is the traditional rice of the Veneto for seafood risotto. Carnaroli is acceptable. Arborio is a last resort. Never use long-grain rice.
• •Ask your fishmonger to clean the squid for you. If cleaning it yourself, remove the beak, the quill, and the ink sac. Rinse thoroughly inside and out.
• •Fish stock from a good fishmonger or made from fish bones is best. In a pinch, bottled clam juice diluted with water will serve. Never use chicken broth for seafood risotto.
• •The saffron is traditional in some coastal towns, omitted in others. It adds color and a subtle earthy note. Use it or not according to your preference, but use it sparingly if you do.
• •If any mussels or clams remain closed after steaming, discard them without regret. They were dead before cooking and are not safe to eat.

Advance Preparation

• •The shellfish can be steamed and the broth enriched several hours ahead. Refrigerate the shellfish and broth separately. Bring the broth back to a simmer before beginning the risotto.
• •Clean and prepare all seafood before you begin cooking. Once the risotto starts, you cannot stop to clean squid.
• •Risotto cannot be made ahead and reheated. It must be served immediately. Plan your timing so guests are seated when the risotto is ready, not the other way around.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 350g)