
Chef Thomas
A Ploughman's Salad
The old pub ploughman's, shaken loose from its board and laid across butter lettuce with a sharp mustard dressing, for the kind of lunch that feels like you've given yourself the afternoon off.
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Created by Chef Thomas
A composed summer salad of butterhead lettuce, ripe tomatoes, cool cucumber, peppery radishes, and quartered eggs, with a proper homemade salad cream that makes the bottled sort seem like a distant memory.
There's a tomato on the windowsill that has been sitting in the sun since this morning. It smells like a tomato should: warm, slightly green at the stem, sweet underneath. That's when I know it's time for this salad. Not before.
This is the salad that sat on every table at every family gathering for decades. Butterhead lettuce, a few sliced tomatoes, cucumber, radishes, a hard-boiled egg or two, and a bottle of salad cream from the fridge door. Nobody called it a recipe. It was just what you ate when the weather turned warm. But somewhere along the way it got dismissed, pushed aside by leaves that came in bags and dressings that came from Italy, and I think something was lost in the swap.
The salad cream is the thing that brings it back. Made properly, at home, it's a different creature entirely from the bottled version: sharper, lighter, with a mustardy bite and a richness that comes from real eggs and real cream. It takes ten minutes and it transforms a plate of simple vegetables into something that feels like a quiet occasion. We're only making dinner. But this is the kind of dinner worth writing down.
I've put it in the notebook a few times over the years, always in summer: lettuce, egg, cream, sun. It never needs more detail than that.
Quantity
1 large
Quantity
4
sliced into rounds
Quantity
1
sliced
Quantity
1 bunch
trimmed and halved
Quantity
4
for hard-boiling
Quantity
a few
sliced finely
Quantity
a small handful
Quantity
2
for the salad cream
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
100ml
Quantity
150ml
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| butterhead lettuce | 1 large |
| ripe tomatoessliced into rounds | 4 |
| cucumbersliced | 1 |
| radishestrimmed and halved | 1 bunch |
| large eggsfor hard-boiling | 4 |
| spring onionssliced finely | a few |
| cress or watercress (optional) | a small handful |
| large egg yolksfor the salad cream | 2 |
| English mustard | 1 teaspoon |
| caster sugar | 1 tablespoon |
| white wine vinegar | 100ml |
| double cream | 150ml |
| fine sea salt | to taste |
| white pepper | to taste |
Lower the eggs into a pan of simmering water and cook for ten minutes. Not nine, not eleven. You want yolks that are just set the whole way through, with no grey ring and no wet centre. Lift them straight into cold water and leave them there while you get on with everything else. They'll peel better for it.
Whisk the egg yolks, mustard, sugar, and a good pinch of salt together in a heatproof bowl. Add the vinegar and whisk again. Set the bowl over a pan of gently simmering water, not touching it, and stir steadily with a wooden spoon. After five minutes or so the mixture will start to thicken. You're looking for something that coats the back of the spoon and stays there when you draw a line through it with your finger. Take it off the heat. Let it cool for a few minutes, then fold in the cream. Taste it. It should be sharp and sweet and slightly mustardy, with the cream rounding everything out. Season with salt and white pepper. It will thicken further as it cools.
Separate the lettuce leaves by hand. Don't cut them. Wash and dry them gently, a clean tea towel works better than a spinner for butterhead because the leaves bruise easily. Slice the tomatoes into thick rounds. Peel the cucumber or don't, your choice, and slice it on the diagonal so the pieces are wide enough to hold the cream. Halve the radishes. Trim and slice the spring onions finely. If you've got cress or watercress, pick it over and set it aside.
This isn't a tossed salad. It's a composed one, and the arrangement is part of the pleasure. Lay the lettuce leaves on a wide plate or shallow bowl. Arrange the tomato slices across them, overlapping a little. Scatter the cucumber and radishes between and around. Peel the eggs, quarter them lengthways, and tuck them in. Scatter the spring onions and cress over the top. Spoon the salad cream generously alongside, or serve it in a small jug at the table so people can help themselves. Don't dress the whole thing in advance. The lettuce should be crisp when it meets the cream.
1 serving (about 400g)
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