
Chef Klaus
Allgäuer Kaspressknödel
Pressed bread dumplings from the Alpine south, fried until the cheese catches at the edges and the middle stays soft enough for broth, kraut, or a weekday plate.
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Altbayern's potato pancake is simple only if you respect the water: grate raw, squeeze hard, fry small in Butterschmalz, and let the edges go crisp and lacy.
Reiberdatschi belong to Altbayern, the old Bavarian kitchen, and they sit wherever potatoes sit well: beside sauerkraut, with smoked pork, under a spoon of apple sauce, or alone on a weeknight when the cupboard looks poor and still feeds you. In Franconia they call them Baggers; in the Rhineland you meet Reibekuchen at markets with Apfelmus, apple sauce, or Rübenkraut, sugar beet syrup. Same hand, different region. Im Norden anders, im Süden anders.
The technique is not the grating. It's the squeezing. Raw potato carries more water than it admits, and if that water stays in the bowl, the pancake steams soft before it can brown. Squeeze it dry, let the starch settle in the potato water, then put that starch back. That's the binder you already paid for. Weggeworfen wird nichts.
Fry them small and flat in Butterschmalz, clarified butter, because whole butter burns before the edges crisp. Don't crowd the pan. A crowded pan drops the heat and gives you pale potato mats, not Reiberdatschi. Salt the mixture late and fry straight away, because salt pulls more water out of the potato while you stand there admiring yourself.
Serve them from the pan as they come. Crisp food waits for no one. Schön ist, was schmeckt.
Potato pancakes became everyday German food only after the potato spread widely in the eighteenth century, helped in Prussia by Frederick II's potato orders of the 1740s and 1750s and by hunger years that taught people the value of a stored root. The names trace regional kitchens: Reiberdatschi in Altbayern, Baggers in Franconia, Reibekuchen or Kartoffelpuffer farther west and north, with sweet apple sauce in one place and sour cabbage or smoked meat in another. The dish is a thrift lesson from the potato era: grate the raw tuber, recover its own starch, and make a full plate out of what the cellar kept.
Quantity
1kg
peeled
Quantity
1
peeled
Quantity
2
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon, plus more to finish
Quantity
1 pinch
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
4 to 6 tablespoons
for frying
Quantity
to serve
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| floury potatoespeeled | 1kg |
| small onionpeeled | 1 |
| eggs | 2 |
| potato starch or settled potato starch | 2 tablespoons |
| fine salt | 1 teaspoon, plus more to finish |
| freshly grated nutmeg | 1 pinch |
| white pepper or black pepper | to taste |
| Butterschmalz or clarified butterfor frying | 4 to 6 tablespoons |
| apple sauce, sauerkraut, or sour cream (optional) | to serve |
Grate the potatoes and onion on the coarse side of a box grater into a bowl. The onion goes in with the potato because it slows browning and seasons the batter from the beginning. Work steadily, not lazily; raw potato darkens when it sits.
Tip the grated potato and onion into a clean kitchen towel and squeeze hard over a bowl until the stream slows to drops. This is the step that decides the dish. Wet potato steams in the pan before it browns, and a steamed pancake has no lace at the edge.
Let the squeezed potato water stand for five minutes, then pour off the brown liquid and keep the white starch settled at the bottom. Scrape that starch back into the grated potato with the eggs, extra potato starch if needed, nutmeg, pepper, and salt. Weggeworfen wird nichts, especially not the binder sitting in your own bowl.
Heat two tablespoons of Butterschmalz in a heavy frying pan over medium-high heat until a shred of potato sizzles at once. Use clarified butter because the milk solids are gone, so it takes the heat without burning bitter before the potatoes crisp.
Drop in heaped tablespoons of batter and press each one thin, about 8 to 10cm wide. Keep space between them. If they touch, the pan cools and the edges soften instead of turning crisp. Fry 3 to 4 minutes per side, until deep gold with brown freckles and lacy edges.
Lift the Reiberdatschi onto a rack or paper, salt them lightly while the surface is still glossy with fat, and serve them straight away. A warm oven keeps them for a few minutes, not for half an hour. Crisp potato has a short temper.
1 serving (about 225g)
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Chef Klaus
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