
Chef Ally
Arugula with Shaved Pecorino and Lemon
Peppery arugula leaves tossed in nothing but fresh lemon and good olive oil, showered with curls of aged pecorino. A salad that proves the best cooking is knowing when to get out of the way.
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Paper-thin ribbons of young summer squash dressed with nothing but lemon, good olive oil, torn mint, and salty curls of aged pecorino. A salad that proves the best cooking is often no cooking at all.
Zucchini gets overlooked. It arrives in abundance at every summer market, piled high, practically free. People roast it, grill it, bake it into bread, and still complain that it is bland. The problem is not the squash. The problem is that we forget to eat it raw.
Small, firm zucchini, picked that morning, shaved thin and dressed simply, is a different vegetable entirely. It is crisp, sweet, and full of a green freshness that cooking destroys. The texture matters here. You want ribbons thin enough to be tender but sturdy enough to hold a slick of olive oil without collapsing.
This is a salad that cannot be made ahead. The salt draws moisture the moment it touches the squash, and within minutes you have a puddle instead of a salad. Prepare everything, then dress and serve in one fluid motion. Your guests should see it at its peak, before the aliveness fades.
Quantity
1 pound (about 4 small)
Quantity
3 tablespoons, plus more for finishing
Quantity
1
zested and juiced
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon, plus more to taste
Quantity
to taste
freshly cracked
Quantity
1/4 cup
torn
Quantity
2 ounces
shaved with a vegetable peeler
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| small, firm zucchini | 1 pound (about 4 small) |
| extra-virgin olive oil | 3 tablespoons, plus more for finishing |
| lemonzested and juiced | 1 |
| flaky sea salt | 1/2 teaspoon, plus more to taste |
| black pepperfreshly cracked | to taste |
| fresh mint leavestorn | 1/4 cup |
| pecorino romanoshaved with a vegetable peeler | 2 ounces |
Start at the market. You want small zucchini, no longer than six inches, firm and heavy for their size. Press the skin gently. It should resist without yielding. Large zucchini are watery and seedy, fine for cooking but wrong here. The small ones have concentrated flavor and a texture that holds up raw.
Trim both ends of each zucchini. Using a sharp vegetable peeler or mandoline, shave the squash lengthwise into long, thin ribbons. Work from all sides, rotating as you go, until you reach the seedy core. Stop there. The core can go into tomorrow's stock or compost. You want ribbons thin enough to bend without breaking, almost translucent at the edges.
Spread the zucchini ribbons on a wide, shallow serving plate or platter. This salad cannot wait. The moment salt touches the squash, it begins to weep. Drizzle the olive oil over the ribbons, then the lemon juice. Season with flaky salt and several grinds of black pepper. Toss gently with your hands, lifting and folding so every ribbon is coated.
Scatter the torn mint leaves across the dressed zucchini. Tearing releases the oils in a way cutting cannot. Add the pecorino shavings, letting them fall where they will. Finish with a final drizzle of olive oil and a little of the lemon zest. Taste. Adjust salt if needed. The cheese is salty, so go carefully.
Bring the salad to the table the moment it is dressed. Within ten minutes, the zucchini will begin to soften and release water. This is a salad that rewards immediacy. Let your guests see it at its peak, ribbons still holding their shape, mint bright, cheese in crisp curls. It should taste of summer.
1 serving (about 150g)
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