
Chef Isabel
Berza Gaditana
Berza gaditana is Cádiz spoon food: chickpeas and white beans with the green the season gives, plus chorizo, morcilla, and pork, simmered until the broth turns thick and honest.
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Puchero valenciano is Valencia's winter cocido: a clear, generous pot of chickpeas, meats, greens, and the cabbage-wrapped pelota that makes it Valencian, with fideo soup served first.
Puchero valenciano is Valencia's winter cocido, and the pelota is what tells you where you are. Not Madrid's chickpea pot, not an Asturian fabada, not a stew with chorizo thrown in because someone got nervous. Esto es valenciano, no de España a secas. It is broth, chickpeas, winter vegetables, meats, and that seasoned meatball wrapped in cabbage leaf, the pilota, cooked gently until it holds together and perfumes the pot.
The method that decides it is the broth. Start the meats and bones in cold water, let them come up slowly, skim well, and only then add the soaked chickpeas to the hot broth. After that, keep everything at a quiet simmer. A hard boil clouds the broth and breaks the pelota. There is no sofrito here, the slow onion base. The foundation is patience, clean skimming, and timing the vegetables so they taste like themselves.
If you're far from Valencia, no hace falta haber pisado España. Use beef shin for garreta, a ham bone for the salted bones, savoy cabbage for the wrapping leaves, and a mild fresh pork sausage if you cannot find blanquet. It won't have quite the same cinnamon-and-white-sausage perfume, and you should know that, but the dish will still stand if the broth is honest and the pelota is wrapped well.
Serve it in the old order: first the golden broth with fine fideos, then the chickpeas, vegetables, meats, and sliced pelota on a platter. My Margin beside this one says only, "no lo hiervas fuerte," don't boil it hard. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
Puchero valenciano, or putxero valencià, belongs to the cold-weather home cooking of Valencia, especially the richer family pot made for Nadal, Christmas, when the pilota wrapped in cabbage marks the dish from its neighbours. The pot reflects both the huerta and the inland larder: chickpeas, cabbage, roots, cardoon when there is any, pork from the household curing, and poultry or beef to strengthen the broth. Its service in courses, soup first with fideos or rice and the meats and vegetables after, is the old cocido habit of making one pot feed the table properly.
Quantity
350g
soaked overnight and drained
Quantity
500g
in 2 large pieces
Quantity
700g
skin on
Quantity
250g
in one piece
Quantity
1, about 300g
rinsed well
Quantity
2, about 180g total
Quantity
3 litres, plus more if needed
Quantity
1, about 900g
6 outer leaves reserved, rest cut into wedges
Quantity
2, about 200g
peeled
Quantity
2, about 250g
peeled and halved
Quantity
1, about 120g
peeled
Quantity
1, about 150g
trimmed and washed
Quantity
2, about 100g
Quantity
200g
peeled and cut into pieces
Quantity
450g
peeled and halved
Quantity
250g
peeled and cut into large pieces
Quantity
120g
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
350g
Quantity
150g
Quantity
60g
very finely chopped
Quantity
80g
Quantity
80ml
Quantity
1
Quantity
40g
Quantity
2
grated
Quantity
15g
finely chopped
Quantity
8g
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| dried chickpeassoaked overnight and drained | 350g |
| beef shin or shank, garreta if you can get itin 2 large pieces | 500g |
| hen or chicken leg quartersskin on | 700g |
| pork belly or tocinoin one piece | 250g |
| ham bone or salted pork bonerinsed well | 1, about 300g |
| blanquets valencians or mild fresh pork sausage (optional) | 2, about 180g total |
| cold water | 3 litres, plus more if needed |
| large cabbage6 outer leaves reserved, rest cut into wedges | 1, about 900g |
| carrotspeeled | 2, about 200g |
| turnipspeeled and halved | 2, about 250g |
| parsnip or chirivíapeeled | 1, about 120g |
| leektrimmed and washed | 1, about 150g |
| celery sticks | 2, about 100g |
| cardoon stalks (optional)peeled and cut into pieces | 200g |
| potatoespeeled and halved | 450g |
| sweet potatopeeled and cut into large pieces | 250g |
| fine fideos | 120g |
| salt | to taste |
| minced pork shoulder | 350g |
| minced beef | 150g |
| panceta or tocinovery finely chopped | 60g |
| day-old bread crumbs | 80g |
| milk | 80ml |
| large egg | 1 |
| pine nuts | 40g |
| garlic clovesgrated | 2 |
| flat-leaf parsleyfinely chopped | 15g |
| fine salt for the pelota | 8g |
| ground cinnamon | 1/2 teaspoon |
| black pepper | 1/4 teaspoon |
Soak the chickpeas overnight in plenty of cold water. If your ham bone or salted pork bone is very salty, soak it separately for one hour, then rinse it well. Drain the chickpeas before cooking. Pésalo, no lo adivines: dried chickpeas swell unevenly if you guess by handfuls.
Soak the bread crumbs in the milk for 5 minutes. In a bowl, mix the pork, beef, chopped panceta, soaked crumbs, egg, pine nuts, garlic, parsley, 8g salt, cinnamon, and black pepper. Mix with your hands just until it holds together. Do not knead it like bread or the pelota turns tight. Divide into 2 fat logs.
Pull 6 large outer leaves from the cabbage and blanch them in boiling water for 2 minutes, just until flexible. Cool them, pat them dry, and wrap the 2 meat logs in overlapping leaves. Tie each parcel with kitchen string. The cabbage is not decoration; it keeps the pelota whole and gives the broth its green, winter taste.
Put the beef, chicken or hen, pork belly, and ham bone in a large heavy pot with 3 litres cold water. Bring it up slowly over medium heat. As the grey foam rises, skim it away until the surface looks clean and the broth smells meaty, not raw. This slow start is why the soup comes out clear instead of muddy.
When the broth is hot and well skimmed, add the drained chickpeas. Chickpeas want to enter hot broth, not cold, or they can stay stubborn in the middle. Lower the heat and hold the pot at a quiet simmer for 1 hour and 30 minutes, skimming now and then. Add a little hot water if the liquid drops below the ingredients.
Add the carrots, turnips, parsnip, leek, celery, and cardoon if using. Simmer 30 minutes. Then add the potatoes, sweet potato, cabbage wedges, the wrapped pelotas, and the blanquets if you have them. Keep the pot gentle for another 45 to 60 minutes, until the chickpeas are tender, the potato gives easily, and the pelota feels firm through the cabbage leaf.
Taste the broth before adding salt, because the ham bone and pork may have done half the work already. Lift out the meats, vegetables, chickpeas, blanquets, and pelotas to a warm platter. Let the broth settle for 10 minutes, then strain it. Skim some fat if you like a lighter soup, but leave enough gloss for flavor.
Measure about 1.5 litres of strained broth into a clean pot and bring it to a lively boil. Add the fine fideos and cook until tender, usually 4 to 6 minutes, depending on their thickness. Taste again for salt. The soup should be golden, clear, and full enough to stand as the first course.
Serve the fideo soup first. Then cut the string from the pelotas and slice them thickly. Arrange the chickpeas, vegetables, meats, blanquets, and sliced pelota on a large platter, spooning over a little broth so nothing dries out. No chorizo here. That belongs to other pots, and this one already knows where it comes from.
1 serving (about 650g)
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