
Chef Lupita
Caldo de Shuti Zoque de Chiapas
Chiapas' Zoque river broth of shuti, chile de Simojovel, chile amashito, momo, chipilin, and masa, a spring pot that tastes of mountain streams and the women who clean every shell by hand.
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Tabasco's lowland beef puchero, built with marrow bones, plátano macho, yuca, macal, chayote, calabaza, elote, herbs, and a spoon of arroz frito stirred into the bowl.
Tabasco, especially the Chontalpa and the river country around Nacajuca and Villahermosa, cooks from water, heat, root vegetables, and patience. This puchero is not a chile-forward soup. It belongs to the humid lowlands where plátano macho, yuca, macal, chayote, calabaza, elote, chaya, momo, and chile amashito all have a place on the table.
The broth comes first. Beef chambarete, short rib, and marrow bone simmer until the meat loosens and the bones give the caldo weight. Then the roots go in by order of toughness: yuca and macal before chayote and calabaza, plátano macho when it can soften without falling apart. A careless cook throws everything in at once and calls it practical. No. Timing is the recipe.
The arroz frito matters. In Tabasco homes, a spoonful of rice fried in manteca de cerdo can go into the bowl to give the broth body and hunger-satisfying weight. La manteca es el sabor. The chile amashito is not there to make the whole pot hot. It sits at the table, crushed with lime and salt, so each person decides. Cada estado, su propia cocina.
I learned versions like this from women who cooked while the air felt heavy enough to chew, with bunches of chaya on the table and jícaras of pozol nearby. The pot was not dressed up. It was generous, useful, and exact. Saber cocinar es saber vivir.
Puchero entered Mexico through Spanish colonial cooking, but in Tabasco it was reshaped by the ingredients of the Maya-Chontal lowlands: plantain, yuca, macal, chayote, calabaza, corn, and local herbs. Unlike the chile-heavy stews of central Mexico, southern caldo traditions often rely on aromatic leaves, masa or rice for body, and slow-simmered meat, river fish, or estuarine foods. Chile amashito, a small wild chile closely associated with Tabasco, is usually served as a table condiment rather than used to dominate the broth.
Quantity
2 pounds
cut into large pieces
Quantity
1 pound
Quantity
1 pound
Quantity
14 cups, plus more as needed
Quantity
1 medium
halved
Quantity
1
halved crosswise
Quantity
2 teaspoons, plus more to taste
Quantity
2 sprigs
Quantity
4
stems removed
Quantity
2
Quantity
1 pound
peeled, woody core removed, cut into 2-inch pieces
Quantity
1 pound
peeled and cut into 2-inch pieces
Quantity
2 ears
cut crosswise into thirds
Quantity
2
peeled if tough, pitted, cut into wedges
Quantity
1 pound
cut into large chunks
Quantity
2
peeled and cut into thick diagonal pieces
Quantity
1 cup
drained
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
3/4 cup
Quantity
1
finely chopped
Quantity
2 tablespoons
finely chopped
Quantity
1
minced
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
for serving
Quantity
for serving
Quantity
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| beef chambaretecut into large pieces | 2 pounds |
| bone-in beef short ribs | 1 pound |
| beef marrow bones | 1 pound |
| cold water | 14 cups, plus more as needed |
| white onionhalved | 1 medium |
| head of garlichalved crosswise | 1 |
| kosher salt | 2 teaspoons, plus more to taste |
| fresh epazote | 2 sprigs |
| fresh chaya leavesstems removed | 4 |
| fresh momo leaves or hierba santa leaves | 2 |
| yucapeeled, woody core removed, cut into 2-inch pieces | 1 pound |
| macal or malangapeeled and cut into 2-inch pieces | 1 pound |
| fresh corncut crosswise into thirds | 2 ears |
| chayotespeeled if tough, pitted, cut into wedges | 2 |
| calabaza de Castilla or Mexican squashcut into large chunks | 1 pound |
| ripe but firm plátanos machospeeled and cut into thick diagonal pieces | 2 |
| cooked garbanzosdrained | 1 cup |
| manteca de cerdo | 2 tablespoons |
| long-grain white rice | 3/4 cup |
| small tomatofinely chopped | 1 |
| white onion for the ricefinely chopped | 2 tablespoons |
| small garlic cloveminced | 1 |
| kosher salt for the rice | 1/4 teaspoon |
| fresh lime halves (optional) | for serving |
| chile amashito crushed with salt (optional) | for serving |
| warm hand-pressed corn tortillas (optional) | for serving |
Put the chambarete, short ribs, and marrow bones in a heavy stockpot. Cover with the cold water by about two inches. Add the halved onion, garlic, and salt. Bring it up slowly over medium heat. Skim the gray foam that rises during the first 20 minutes. If you let that foam boil back into the pot, the broth turns cloudy and tired.
Lower the heat until the broth moves with slow, steady bubbles. Cover partially and cook for 1 hour and 45 minutes, adding hot water only if the bones start to show above the liquid. The meat should begin to loosen but not collapse. A puchero is generous, but it is not careless.
Add the yuca, macal, and corn. Simmer for 25 minutes. Yuca and macal need time to soften and give the broth their starchy body. Do not add the squash yet. Calabaza is not a rock. Treat it like what it is.
Add the chayote, calabaza, plátano macho, and garbanzos. Simmer 20 to 25 minutes more, until the plantain is tender, the chayote is cooked through, and the squash holds its shape at the edges. If the plantain breaks a little, fine. If it dissolves into the pot, you waited too long.
Tear the chaya and momo leaves into large pieces and add them with the epazote. Simmer 8 minutes. The broth should smell green and deep, not sharp. This is the Maya south speaking through herbs, not through a red chile paste. Not every Mexican soup is trying to be pozole rojo.
While the pot rests, melt the manteca de cerdo in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the rice and stir until the grains turn opaque and smell toasted, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the chopped tomato, onion, garlic, and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Cook 3 minutes more, until the tomato gives up its juice and stains the rice lightly.
Ladle 1 1/2 cups of hot broth from the puchero into the rice. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook 15 minutes. Turn off the heat and let it stand 10 minutes without lifting the lid. The rice should be separate but soft enough to sink into the caldo. This is arroz frito for body, not a side dish pretending to be separate.
Taste the broth and correct the salt. Remove the spent onion, garlic, epazote stems, and any tough leaf stems you see. Serve each bowl with beef, marrow bone if your guests know what is good, yuca, macal, corn, chayote, calabaza, plantain, and garbanzos. Add a spoon of arroz frito to each bowl. Put lime halves, crushed chile amashito with salt, and warm corn tortillas on the table. Así se hace y punto.
1 serving (about 850g)
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Chef Lupita
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