
Chef Isabel
Caldo de Millo Canario
Caldo de Millo is the Canary Islands' clear corn-cob broth: piñas de millo, papas, calabaza, and cilantro simmered gently until the cobs sweeten the water and the bowl stays light.
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Puchero Canario is the islands' generous cocido: chickpeas, meats, corn cob, sweet potato, pumpkin, cabbage, and potatoes, cooked in order so every vegetable keeps its name.
Puchero Canario belongs to the Canary Islands, and the islands mark it with things a Castilian cocido doesn't carry in the same way: piña de millo, the corn cob, batata, pumpkin, cabbage, chickpeas, and a full pot of meats giving their strength to the broth. It is comida de cuchara, spoon food, but also a two-part meal. First the broth, clear and deep. Then the meats, chickpeas, and vegetables on a platter, each one still itself.
The method that decides it is order. The meats and soaked chickpeas go first, because they need time. The hard vegetables follow, then the tender pumpkin, cabbage, and green beans near the end. Throw everything in together and the pot may still feed you, but the pumpkin collapses, the cabbage goes tired, and the broth turns cloudy. This dish wants abundance, not confusion.
If you're far from the islands, no hace falta haber pisado España. Use dried chickpeas, a corn cob, sweet potato, pumpkin or winter squash, cabbage, and honest stewing meats you can get: beef shin, pork ribs, chicken, and a piece of salt pork or bacon. A Spanish cooking chorizo is common in many home pots; if you leave it out, the broth is lighter and less red, not ruined. Pésalo, no lo adivines, then let the pot work. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
Puchero Canario is the Canary Islands' version of the broad Iberian family of cocidos, shaped by an island larder where chickpeas, salted pork, corn, sweet potato, pumpkin, and cabbage met in the same pot. The corn cob, called piña de millo in the islands, is one of the signs that makes it Canarian rather than a mainland cocido. The broth is often served first, and what remains can be stretched into escaldón with gofio or turned the next day into ropa vieja, the practical second life of a generous pot.
Quantity
350g
soaked overnight
Quantity
500g
cut into large pieces
Quantity
350g
cut into large pieces
Quantity
250g
bone-in
Quantity
150g
in one piece
Quantity
1 (about 100g)
Quantity
1 large
peeled, left whole
Quantity
3 cloves
peeled
Quantity
1
Quantity
2.5 litres, plus more as needed
Quantity
2
each cut into 3 pieces
Quantity
300g
peeled and halved
Quantity
300g
peeled and cut into large chunks
Quantity
250g
peeled and cut into large chunks
Quantity
200g
peeled and cut into thick pieces
Quantity
200g
trimmed
Quantity
300g
cut into wedges
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 small pinch
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
to taste
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| dried chickpeassoaked overnight | 350g |
| beef shin or stewing beefcut into large pieces | 500g |
| pork ribscut into large pieces | 350g |
| chicken thigh or henbone-in | 250g |
| salt pork, panceta, or thick baconin one piece | 150g |
| Spanish cooking chorizo (optional) | 1 (about 100g) |
| onionpeeled, left whole | 1 large |
| garlicpeeled | 3 cloves |
| bay leaf | 1 |
| water | 2.5 litres, plus more as needed |
| corn cobseach cut into 3 pieces | 2 |
| potatoespeeled and halved | 300g |
| sweet potatopeeled and cut into large chunks | 300g |
| pumpkin or winter squashpeeled and cut into large chunks | 250g |
| carrotspeeled and cut into thick pieces | 200g |
| green beanstrimmed | 200g |
| cabbagecut into wedges | 300g |
| sweet pimentón | 1 teaspoon |
| saffron threads (optional) | 1 small pinch |
| olive oil | 2 tablespoons |
| salt | to taste |
The night before, put the chickpeas in a large bowl and cover them with plenty of cold water. They swell more than you think, so give them room. This is not fussiness; soaked chickpeas cook evenly and keep their skins better.
Drain the chickpeas. Put the beef, pork ribs, chicken, salt pork, onion, garlic, bay leaf, and 2.5 litres water in a tall heavy pot. Bring it slowly to a simmer, skim the grey foam from the surface, then add the drained chickpeas. Keep the pot at a gentle tremble, not a hard boil, for 1 hour.
Warm the olive oil in a small pan, take it off the heat, and stir in the pimentón so it blooms without burning. Add this to the pot with the saffron, if using, and the chorizo if you want that fuller, redder home-pot flavor. Simmer 30 minutes more, until the chickpeas are nearly tender.
Add the corn cobs, potatoes, sweet potato, and carrots. Taste the broth and salt it carefully. Keep the simmer gentle for 25 minutes, adding a little hot water only if the ingredients are no longer covered. The pot should be generous, not drowned.
Add the pumpkin, green beans, and cabbage wedges. Cook 18 to 25 minutes more, until the pumpkin is tender but not falling apart, the cabbage is soft, and the chickpeas are creamy all the way through. This order is what keeps the puchero Canario clean and clear instead of mashed together.
Lift the meats and vegetables out carefully to a large platter, keeping the corn, chickpeas, potatoes, sweet potato, pumpkin, cabbage, and meats in visible groups. Strain the broth if you like it clear. Serve the broth first in bowls, then bring the platter to the table with chickpeas and a little broth spooned over. Tal como se hace allí.
1 serving (about 750g)
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Chef Isabel
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