Potaje de Berros Canario

Potaje de berros is Canarian, and Canarias makes it with the green bite of watercress, white beans, potatoes, corn, pumpkin, and pork rib. This is cocina de cuchara, spoon food, but island spoon food: humble, green, a little sweet from the vegetables, and deepened by the pork without turning heavy.

The step that decides it is not clever. You mash some potato, pumpkin, beans, and broth at the end and stir it back into the pot. That is what gives the stew body. Don't thicken it with flour, and don't leave it watery and call it lighter. Mash what the pot already gave you, tal como se hace allí.

If you can't find Canarian berros, use mature watercress with thick stems trimmed, or a mix of watercress and young spinach if the bunches are too peppery where you live. Fresh pork rib works if salted rib is out of reach; just salt the stew properly near the end. No hace falta haber pisado España. With good greens, patience, and that final mash, siempre sale, si lo sigues.

In the Margin beside this one I keep the same warning twice: add the tender watercress leaves late enough that they don't turn dull before the stew is ready. The stems can cook longer. The leaves deserve better.