
Chef Lupita
Agua de Jamaica Guerrerense
Guerrero's hibiscus water, made with flor de jamaica from Tecoanapa, steeped dark with Mexican canela and clavo de olor, then served cold over ice for the coastal heat.
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Colima's Comala ponche is a cold cream liqueur, blended with toasted peanut, pistachio, milk, and tuxca, then poured in small glasses for fiestas and long tables.
Colima, specifically Comala at the foot of the Volcan de Fuego, is where this ponche belongs. Not the hot fruit punch of December posadas. This is cold, creamy, alcoholic, and served in small glasses while the plaza moves slowly around you.
The defining ingredient is tuxca, the agave distillate made in the border country of Colima and southern Jalisco. Some families use cane aguardiente because that is what the bottle on the shelf holds. Fine. But know the difference. Tuxca gives a green, sharp edge under the milk and toasted nuts. Cane alcohol is cleaner and flatter. A substitution is a compromise, not an upgrade.
In Comala, ponche appears in flavors: cacahuate, pistache, granada, cafe, coco, tamarindo. This version uses toasted peanut and pistachio because the nuts give the milk body without eggs or tricks. The technique is market logic: toast for flavor, warm the milk gently, blend until smooth, strain twice if you want the texture the señoras sell near the portales. La cocina no es decoración, es trabajo.
Serve it cold in little glass caballitos or small clay cups, not over a pile of ice like a nightclub drink. Shake the bottle before pouring. Real ingredients settle. Saber cocinar es saber vivir.
Ponche de Comala developed as a regional liqueur tradition in Colima, where fruit, nuts, milk, sugar, and local alcohol were turned into bottled drinks sold around Comala's plaza and nearby fairs. Tuxca, the agave distillate historically produced in Colima and southern Jalisco, predates the modern legal categories that made tequila and mezcal better known outside their regions. The name 'ponche' causes confusion because central Mexico also uses it for hot Christmas fruit punch, but in Comala the word often refers to a cold sweet liqueur served in small portions.
Quantity
1 cup
skins removed
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
3 cups
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
3/4 cup
Quantity
1
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
1/4 cup
optional for granada style
Quantity
as needed
for chilling the bottle, not for diluting the ponche
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| raw unsalted peanutsskins removed | 1 cup |
| shelled unsalted pistachios | 1/2 cup |
| whole milk | 3 cups |
| evaporated milk | 1 cup |
| granulated sugar | 3/4 cup |
| Mexican cinnamon stick | 1 |
| fine sea salt | 1/4 teaspoon |
| pure vanilla extract | 1 teaspoon |
| tuxca or cane aguardiente | 1 cup |
| pomegranate syrup (optional)optional for granada style | 1/4 cup |
| ice (optional)for chilling the bottle, not for diluting the ponche | as needed |
Set a dry comal or heavy skillet over medium heat. Toast the peanuts first, moving them constantly, until they smell roasted and turn pale gold in spots, about 5 minutes. Toast the pistachios separately for 2 to 3 minutes, just until fragrant. Do not burn them. Burned nuts make bitter ponche, and no amount of sugar fixes that.
In a saucepan, combine the whole milk, evaporated milk, sugar, canela, and salt. Warm over medium-low heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Do not boil it. You want the milk hot enough to take flavor from the canela, not cooked until it tastes tired. Turn off the heat and let it stand for 15 minutes.
Remove the cinnamon stick. Pour half the warm milk into a blender with the toasted peanuts and pistachios. Blend until completely smooth, at least 90 seconds. Add the remaining milk and vanilla, then blend again. The texture should be creamy, not gritty. If your blender is weak, blend longer. No me vengas con atajos.
Pass the mixture through a fine-mesh strainer into a pitcher, pressing gently with a spoon. If you want the very smooth texture sold in Comala, strain it a second time through damp cheesecloth. The women who sell ponche around the plaza know this step is what makes it drink like cream instead of nut paste.
Let the strained base cool to room temperature. Stir in the tuxca or cane aguardiente. If making the granada version, add the pomegranate syrup now and stir until the color turns pale rose. Do not add alcohol to hot milk. It roughens the texture and throws the aroma out of balance.
Bottle the ponche and refrigerate for at least 2 hours. Shake hard before serving because real nut ponche settles. Pour into small glasses, 2 or 3 ounces each. This is sipped cold, not ladled hot like Christmas fruit punch. Cada estado, su propia cocina.
1 serving (about 85g)
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Chef Lupita
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