Polenta Fritta

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Large heavy skillet, preferably cast iron
• •Thin metal spatula
• •Sharp knife for slicing

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare the cold polenta

   The polenta must be completely cold and firm. If you have made it fresh, pour it into a loaf pan or spread it onto a sheet pan to a thickness of about three-quarters of an inch. Refrigerate for at least four hours, preferably overnight. The polenta should hold its shape when sliced. If it crumbles, it was not cooked long enough or not chilled long enough.

   This is a dish built on leftovers. The polenta you serve at dinner one night becomes polenta fritta the next. This is not compromise. This is how Italian home cooks have always cooked.
2. 2

   Slice the polenta

   Turn the cold polenta out onto a cutting board. Using a sharp knife, cut it into slices about half an inch thick. You may cut these into rectangles, triangles, or rounds as you prefer. The shape matters less than the thickness. Too thin and they become crackers. Too thick and the center will not warm through before the exterior burns.

3. 3

   Heat the fat

   In a large heavy skillet, heat the olive oil and butter together over medium-high heat. The butter will foam and then subside. When the foam subsides and you see the first wisps of smoke, the fat is ready. Do not let it go further. Burned butter tastes of regret.

   The combination of butter and olive oil gives you both flavor and a higher smoke point. Neither alone is as effective. This is not a choice. This is technique.
4. 4

   Fry until golden

   Place the polenta slices in the hot fat in a single layer. Do not crowd them. They need space to develop a crust. Fry without moving until the underside is deeply golden and releases easily from the pan, 4 to 5 minutes. If the slices stick, they are not ready to turn. Wait.

5. 5

   Turn and finish

   Turn the slices carefully with a thin spatula. Fry the second side until equally golden and crisp, another 4 to 5 minutes. The exterior should be crackling and bronze. The interior should remain creamy and soft. Press the center gently with your finger. It should yield slightly, indicating warmth throughout.

6. 6

   Drain and season

   Transfer the fried polenta to a plate lined with paper towels. Blot briefly but do not leave them there to get soggy. Move them to a warm serving plate immediately. Season with salt and pepper while still hot. The heat opens the surface to receive the seasoning. Cold polenta rejects salt. Serve at once.

Chef Tips

• •The polenta you begin with determines everything. It must be cooked properly: at least 45 minutes of stirring for traditional polenta, until it pulls away from the sides of the pot. Undercooked polenta will never set firm enough to slice cleanly.
• •If your polenta sticks to the pan, your fat is not hot enough or you are not waiting long enough. The crust must form before you attempt to move it. Patience is the only technique required.
• •In Veneto, they sometimes add a thin slice of cheese between two pieces of polenta before frying, creating a sort of grilled cheese without bread. This is acceptable. But master the plain version first.
• •Lard was traditional in the mountains where olive trees do not grow. If you have good lard, use it. The flavor is deeper, more rustic. This is not the time for health concerns.

Advance Preparation

• •The cooked polenta must chill for at least four hours, preferably overnight. This step cannot be shortened.
• •Sliced polenta can be arranged on a sheet pan, separated by parchment, and refrigerated for up to two days before frying.
• •Once fried, polenta fritta does not hold well. Serve immediately. This is not a dish for buffets or warming drawers.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 160g)