Pitaroudia Rodou (Πιταρούδια Ρόδου)

Pitaroudia Rodou are Rhodes' chickpea fritters, the Dodecanese pseftokeftedes, false meatballs made for lean days and poor cupboards that still knew how to feed people well. They aren't neat balls. They are loose spoonfuls of chickpea, grated tomato, onion and mint, dropped into hot oil and fried until the edges go crisp and lacy.

The whole dish depends on the batter. Mash the chickpeas roughly, then let the tomato, onion and flour rest together before frying. That short rest lets the flour drink the juices, so the fritter holds in the oil without becoming heavy. Make the mixture stiff enough to roll and you've lost Rhodes. It should fall from the spoon reluctantly, like a thick village batter.

I like them warm, with lemon, olives, and sometimes the Rhodian thread of honey over the top, very thin, not enough to make them sweet. The island knows what it's doing. Chickpea, mint, tomato, oil, patience. Λίγα και καλά.