
Chef Joost
Acar Ketimun (Indo-Dutch Cucumber Pickle)
Acar means pickle, ketimun means cucumber, and this little bowl of sweet vinegar, chilli, and crunch is the cool note that lets an Indo-Dutch rijsttafel keep its balance.
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Pisang means banana, goreng means fried, and on the Indo-Dutch table this small golden side dish does the clever work of sweetness among sambal, rice, and ketjap.
During my manuscript year in Fez I learned that sweet beside sharp is not a trick, it is old kitchen wisdom. Later, at Indo-Dutch tables in the Netherlands, I saw the same intelligence in a bowl of sambal, a spoon of ketjap manis, and a plate of pisang goreng passed around the rice. History and cookery, they cannot be separated. Sometimes they sit quite plainly next to the peanuts.
The name already tells you almost everything, and for once we don't need to bully it. In Indonesian and Malay, pisang is banana, goreng is fried. But let me tell you a secret: on a Dutch rijsttafel, the fried banana is not dessert pretending to be dinner. It is balance. The sweetness softens chili, the crisp batter catches salty sauce, and the firm banana inside stays just sturdy enough to remind you that ripeness has a limit.
This is where the home cook must be exacting in the simplest way. Use bakbananen, firm plantains, yellow with only a few black freckles. A soft dessert banana collapses into sugar paste in the pan, and no batter can rescue it with dignity. Hou het altijd simpel, always keep it simple: a thin batter, hot oil, no crowding, and the patience to fry in small batches. The Dutch table adopted this dish through a hard colonial history, and the honest way to cook it now is neither to flatten that history nor decorate it. Make it well. Pass it generously.
Pisang goreng is Indonesian, where fried bananas are sold as everyday gorengan, fried snacks, and served at home with tea or as part of a larger meal. In the Netherlands it entered domestic and restaurant cooking through the Indo-Dutch table after centuries of Dutch colonial rule in the Indonesian archipelago, becoming a familiar sweet side in rijsttafel, the many-dish rice meal developed in colonial Indonesia and later popularized in Dutch restaurants. Its role on that table is practical as much as nostalgic: sweetness and crisp batter temper sambal, salt, and ketjap without turning the meal into dessert.
Quantity
4
peeled and sliced lengthwise or on a long diagonal
Quantity
150g
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
200ml
Quantity
1
Quantity
about 750ml
Quantity
to serve
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| firm ripe plantains (bakbananen)peeled and sliced lengthwise or on a long diagonal | 4 |
| plain flour | 150g |
| rice flour or cornstarch | 2 tablespoons |
| sugar | 1 tablespoon |
| baking powder | 1/2 teaspoon |
| fine salt | 1/4 teaspoon |
| cold sparkling water or cold water | 200ml |
| egg | 1 |
| neutral oil for frying | about 750ml |
| ketjap manis (optional) | to serve |
Use plantains that are yellow with a few black freckles and still firm when pressed. Peel them and cut each one lengthwise into three or four long slices, or on a long diagonal into thick pieces. If the fruit feels soft enough to mash with your thumb, it is too ripe for this pan; save it for another use.
Whisk the flour, rice flour or cornstarch, sugar, baking powder, and salt in a bowl. Beat the egg with the cold water, then whisk it into the dry ingredients until you have a batter a little thinner than pancake batter. A few small lumps are innocent. Over-whisking makes the coating tough, and toughness is not a virtue here.
Pour the oil into a heavy pan to a depth of about 4cm and heat it to 175C. If you have no thermometer, drop in a little batter; it should sink for a breath, rise, and fizz steadily without darkening at once. Too cool and the banana drinks oil. Too hot and the batter browns before the fruit warms.
Dip the plantain pieces in the batter, let the excess drip back into the bowl, and lower them carefully into the oil. Fry in small batches for 2 to 3 minutes per side, turning once, until deep golden and lightly blistered at the edges. Do not crowd the pan. A crowded pan cools down, and then you are boiling in oil, which is a sentence no cook wants written about them.
Lift the fried bananas onto a rack or paper towel and give them one quiet minute to shed excess oil. Serve them while the crust is still crisp, beside rice, sambal, satay, or a full rijsttafel, with a small dish of ketjap manis if you like. They should taste sweet, not sugary, and the banana should hold its shape under the teeth.
1 serving (about 170g)
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