
Chef Klaus
Bayerische Martinsgans
The Bavarian St. Martin goose is won in the first slow hour: render the fat gently, spoon it off, then let the skin go crisp and mahogany at the end.
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The Bavarian Forest stew that works because the meat and roots are layered raw, covered tight, and left alone until their own juices do the cooking.
Pichelsteiner Eintopf belongs to the Bavarian Forest, to autumn and winter, to a pot big enough for a table that doesn't want fuss. Beef, pork, and lamb go in with potatoes, roots, cabbage, and leek. The south calls this a proper one-pot meal; the north has its own stews with fish, beans, and smoked things. Im Norden anders, im Süden anders. This one is forest country.
The argument is not whether it is fancy. It isn't. The argument is whether you brown the meat first, add stock, or stir the pot like soup. I don't. Pichelsteiner works because the raw meat and vegetables are layered in order, the firm things below, the softer things above, and the pot stays covered. The salt pulls juice from the meat and vegetables, the fat runs down, and everything cooks in its own broth. Stir it early and you break the potatoes, smear the cabbage, and lose the clean layers. Leave it alone.
This is thrift cooking with manners. Shoulder, neck, or breast pieces do better here than show cuts, because they give gelatin and flavour into the pot while the roots take it up. Weggeworfen wird nichts: if you have a small beef bone or pork rind from the butcher, it goes underneath and comes out before serving. Not a packet, not a jar. Nicht aus dem Glas.
Watch the sound, not just the clock. The pot should murmur low, never rattle hard. Runter mit der Temperatur. When the potatoes give under a knife and the lamb is soft at the edge, you season once more and carry the pot to the table. Schön ist, was schmeckt.
Pichelsteiner is tied to the Bavarian Forest and to the Büchelstein mountain near Grattersdorf, where local accounts credit the innkeeper Auguste Winkler with serving a layered meat-and-vegetable stew for a large gathering in the mid-19th century. The town of Regen has celebrated a Pichelsteinerfest since 1874, which helped make the dish a regional marker rather than just another farm pot. The name is disputed between Büchelstein, the mountain, and Pichelsteiner, the festival dish as it moved into print and public kitchens.
Quantity
400g
cut into 3cm pieces
Quantity
400g
cut into 3cm pieces
Quantity
300g
cut into 3cm pieces
Quantity
800g
peeled and sliced 1cm thick
Quantity
300g
peeled and sliced
Quantity
250g
peeled and diced
Quantity
250g
cored and sliced
Quantity
2
cleaned and sliced into thick rings
Quantity
2
sliced
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 piece
Quantity
2
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
lightly crushed
Quantity
250ml
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
2 tablespoons
chopped
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| beef shoulder or shincut into 3cm pieces | 400g |
| pork shoulder or neckcut into 3cm pieces | 400g |
| lamb shoulder or breastcut into 3cm pieces | 300g |
| waxy potatoespeeled and sliced 1cm thick | 800g |
| carrotspeeled and sliced | 300g |
| celeriacpeeled and diced | 250g |
| savoy cabbage or white cabbagecored and sliced | 250g |
| leekscleaned and sliced into thick rings | 2 |
| onionssliced | 2 |
| lard or neutral oil | 2 tablespoons |
| small beef bone or pork rind (optional) | 1 piece |
| bay leaves | 2 |
| dried marjoram | 1 teaspoon |
| caraway seedslightly crushed | 1/2 teaspoon |
| beef stock or water | 250ml |
| salt and freshly ground black pepper | to taste |
| flat-leaf parsleychopped | 2 tablespoons |
Cut the beef, pork, and lamb into pieces about the same size, 3cm is right, and trim only the hard gristle. Leave the soft fat and connective bits. They melt into the broth and give the stew body, which a lean cube of expensive meat will not do. Season the meat with salt and pepper while you prepare the vegetables, so the salt starts drawing out the juices that will cook the pot.
Slice the potatoes thick enough to hold, about 1cm, because thin slices collapse before the meat is ready. Cut the carrots and celeriac smaller than the potatoes, since they are denser and need the same time in the pot. Wash the leek well between the layers; grit in a stew is not rustic, it's bad washing.
Rub the bottom of a heavy pot with lard or oil, then lay in the optional bone or pork rind if you have it. Put in a layer of potatoes and roots, then a layer of mixed meat, then onion, cabbage, and leek, seasoning each layer lightly with salt, pepper, marjoram, and a little caraway. Repeat until everything is used, finishing with leek and cabbage on top. The firm potatoes and roots sit low where the heat is strongest; the cabbage and leek sit high where they soften without turning to paste.
Pour the stock or water down the side of the pot, not over the top, so you don't wash the seasoning off the layers. Use only 250ml. The point is not to drown the stew like soup; the meat, cabbage, leek, and salt will make their own cooking liquor as the pot warms. Too much liquid gives you boiled meat and tired vegetables.
Set the covered pot over medium heat until you hear the first gentle bubbling, then turn the heat low and cook for about 1 hour 45 minutes to 2 hours. Do not stir. Shake the pot once or twice if you must check that nothing is catching, because stirring breaks the potatoes and turns the clean layers into mash. The stew is ready when the potatoes yield to a knife and the meat gives without fighting.
Take the pot off the heat and let it stand covered for 10 minutes. The rest lets the broth settle back into the potatoes and meat, so the first ladleful is not watery at the bottom and dry at the top. Remove the bone or rind, taste the broth, and adjust salt and pepper at the end. Würzen, Fett, Salz zum Schluss. Ladle deep, so every bowl gets meat, roots, cabbage, and broth, then finish with parsley.
1 serving (about 510g)
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