
Chef Jeong-sun
Amjuk (Dried-Grain Weaning Porridge)
Powdered rice or dried baekseolgi cooked thin in cloudy rice water, an old Korean first-spoon porridge that asks for patience at the sieve and gentleness at the stove.
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The winter solstice porridge of red beans and small rice balls, cooked smooth enough to coat the spoon and seasoned with restraint before sweetness is offered at the table.
Patjuk belongs to the coldest door of the year. On Dongji (winter solstice), red bean porridge sits on the table not because it is grand, but because it is old in the hands: red enough to turn bad luck from the door, plain enough to feed everyone before the morning opens.
The dish lives or dies by the sieve. Boil the first harshness out of the beans, simmer them until they give up completely, then press them smooth so the skins stay behind. If you only blend and rush on, the bowl will look right and eat wrong. The porridge should be soft, deep red-brown, and steady on the spoon, not gritty, not watery.
Saealsim (small glutinous rice balls) are named for bird eggs, and that is the size you want: about 8 grams each, small enough to cook through before they turn heavy. Season with salt first. Sugar can come later, at the table, because old Dongji patjuk is savory before it is sweet. Write it down. Memory is a borrowed bowl.
Patjuk is closely tied to Dongji, the winter solstice in Korea and one of the 24 seasonal divisions of the lunisolar calendar, usually falling around December 21 or 22. The red color of adzuki beans was believed to repel harmful spirits, so patjuk was eaten and, in some households, dabbed or sprinkled near gates and rooms before the family shared the pot. Regional and household customs vary, including whether patjuk is made on an early lunar-month solstice called aegi-dongji, but the porridge remains one of Korea's clearest examples of food as seasonal protection and comfort.
Quantity
1 cup (about 200g)
Quantity
10 cups, divided, plus more as needed
Quantity
1/3 cup
rinsed and soaked 30 minutes
Quantity
1 cup (about 150g)
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
for the rice balls
Quantity
1/2 cup
added gradually to the rice flour
Quantity
1 teaspoon, plus more to taste
Quantity
2 to 4 tablespoons
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| dried red beans (pat, adzuki beans) | 1 cup (about 200g) |
| water | 10 cups, divided, plus more as needed |
| short-grain white ricerinsed and soaked 30 minutes | 1/3 cup |
| glutinous rice flour (chapssal-garu) | 1 cup (about 150g) |
| fine saltfor the rice balls | 1/4 teaspoon |
| boiling wateradded gradually to the rice flour | 1/2 cup |
| fine sea salt | 1 teaspoon, plus more to taste |
| sugar (optional)for serving | 2 to 4 tablespoons |
Rinse the red beans until the water runs mostly clear. Put them in a bowl, cover with plenty of cold water, and soak 2 hours if you have time. This short soak is not ceremony; it helps the beans cook evenly and keeps the porridge from taking half the night.
Drain the beans and put them in a heavy pot with 4 cups fresh water. Bring to a boil and cook hard for 5 minutes, then drain and discard that first water. Red beans carry a bitter edge in the first boil. Throwing it out gives you a cleaner patjuk without needing more sugar later.
Return the drained beans to the pot with 6 cups fresh water. Bring to a boil, lower to a steady simmer, and cook 60 to 75 minutes, stirring now and then, until a bean crushes easily between your fingers. Add 1/2 cup water if the pot gets too thick before the beans soften.
While the beans cook, stir the glutinous rice flour with 1/4 teaspoon fine salt. Add the boiling water a little at a time, mixing with chopsticks first, then kneading by hand when it is cool enough to touch. You may not need every drop. The dough should feel smooth and soft, like an earlobe, not sticky. Roll into small balls, about 8 grams each, roughly 40 balls.
Set a fine sieve over a large bowl. Ladle in the cooked beans and liquid, pressing firmly with a wooden spoon until the smooth bean paste passes through and most skins stay behind. Rinse the pot, then return the sieved bean liquid to it. This is the work of the dish. Skip it and the porridge loses its soft, settled body.
Drain the soaked rice and stir it into the sieved bean liquid. Simmer over medium-low heat for 20 to 25 minutes, stirring often along the bottom so it does not catch, until the grains bloom and the porridge thickens. If it becomes thicker than heavy cream before the rice is tender, add hot water 1/2 cup at a time.
Drop in the saealsim one by one, stirring gently so they do not stick together. Simmer 6 to 8 minutes, until the rice balls float and the centers are cooked through. Keep the heat modest. A hard boil knocks the rice balls ragged and makes the bottom scorch.
Stir in 1 teaspoon fine sea salt, then taste. Add another pinch only if the beans still taste flat. Ladle into bowls and serve sugar on the side, 1 to 2 teaspoons per bowl for those who want it. The first seasoning is salt because patjuk should taste of red beans before it tastes of sweetness.
1 serving (about 470g)
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