Chef Graziella
Agnolotti del Plin
The tiny pinched parcels of Piedmont, filled with braised meat and sealed with a gesture that has passed from grandmother to granddaughter for centuries. The pinch is both technique and signature.
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Passatelli in Brodo
Created by
The pride of Romagna: a simple dough of breadcrumbs, aged cheese, and eggs pressed into simmering broth, creating something that defies category. Three ingredients transformed by technique into comfort itself.
Main Dishes
Italian, Romagnol
Comfort Food
Make Ahead
25 min
Active Time
10 min cook•35 min total
Yield6 servings
Passatelli belongs to Romagna the way tortellini belongs to Bologna. This is my homeland's contribution to the great tradition of pasta in brodo, though calling passatelli pasta is imprecise. They contain no flour. The structure comes entirely from breadcrumbs and Parmigiano-Reggiano bound with egg, pushed through a special iron with holes the size of thick spaghetti.
The result is something that exists nowhere else in Italian cooking. Not a dumpling, which would be dense. Not a pasta, which would require gluten. Passatelli have a texture I can only describe as yielding: they give way under your teeth, releasing the concentrated flavor of aged cheese into the broth that surrounds them.
Every family in Pesaro, in Rimini, in Cesenatico where I was born, has their own iron passed down through generations. Some add a little bone marrow to the dough. Some insist on lemon zest; others consider it heresy. These arguments have continued for centuries and will continue long after we are gone. What no one argues is that the broth must be homemade and the cheese must be real Parmigiano-Reggiano, aged at least 24 months. Without these, you have not made passatelli. You have made something else.
Passatelli originated in the kitchens of Romagna and the Marche during the Renaissance, when cooks discovered that stale bread, mixed with the local aged cheese and eggs, could be pressed into broth to create a substantial first course. The dish remained regional for centuries, virtually unknown outside the Adriatic coast until Italian food writers began documenting regional specialties in the mid-20th century.
The technique, the tradition, and the story behind every dish.
Discover Culinary ExplorerIngredients
fine dry breadcrumbs
Quantity
200 grams (about 2 cups)
Parmigiano-Reggiano
Quantity
200 grams (about 2 cups)
finely grated
large eggs
Quantity
3
nutmeg
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
freshly grated
lemon zest
Quantity
from 1 lemon
finely grated
homemade meat broth
Quantity
8 cups
Parmigiano-Reggiano
Quantity
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| fine dry breadcrumbs | 200 grams (about 2 cups) |
| Parmigiano-Reggianofinely grated | 200 grams (about 2 cups) |
| large eggs | 3 |
| nutmegfreshly grated | 1/4 teaspoon |
| lemon zestfinely grated | from 1 lemon |
| homemade meat broth | 8 cups |
| Parmigiano-Reggiano | for serving |
Equipment Needed
- •Passatelli iron or potato ricer with large holes
- •Large pot for the broth (at least 6 quarts)
- •Large mixing bowl
- •Plastic wrap
Instructions
- 1
Combine the dry ingredients
In a large bowl, combine the breadcrumbs and grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. The ratio must be equal by weight. This is not negotiable. Add the nutmeg and lemon zest and mix thoroughly with your hands until the dry ingredients are evenly distributed.
- 2
Form the dough
Beat the eggs lightly in a small bowl, then pour them into the center of the dry ingredients. Work the mixture together with your hands, pressing and kneading until you have a cohesive dough. It should be firm but pliable, neither crumbly nor sticky. If too dry, add half a beaten egg. If too wet, add more breadcrumbs, a tablespoon at a time.
The dough should feel like firm modeling clay. When you press your thumb into it, it should hold the impression without cracking at the edges. This texture is essential for proper extrusion. - 3
Rest the dough
Wrap the dough tightly in plastic film and let it rest at room temperature for 30 minutes. This allows the breadcrumbs to absorb moisture from the eggs evenly. The dough will become easier to press.
- 4
Prepare your broth
While the dough rests, bring your broth to a gentle simmer in a large pot. The broth must be homemade. Passatelli absorb the flavor of whatever liquid they cook in, and bouillon cubes will announce themselves in every bite. Taste the broth and adjust the salt now.
Traditional Romagnol broth uses capon, which produces a rich, golden liquid with remarkable depth. A mixture of beef and chicken makes an acceptable substitute. What you cannot substitute is care. - 5
Press the passatelli
Fill your passatelli iron or potato ricer with a portion of dough. Hold it directly over the simmering broth and press firmly. The dough will extrude in thick strands. When they reach about two inches in length, cut them off with a knife or let them break naturally and fall into the broth. Work in batches, filling the iron as needed.
If using a potato ricer, choose one with the largest holes. The strands should be thick and substantial, roughly the diameter of a pencil. Too thin and they dissolve; too thick and they remain raw in the center. - 6
Cook briefly
The passatelli cook quickly. Within one to two minutes after all the strands have been pressed into the broth, they will float to the surface. Let them simmer for one minute more. They are done when they have swelled slightly and feel tender but not mushy when pressed with a spoon. Do not overcook them. Mushy passatelli are a disappointment.
- 7
Serve immediately
Ladle the passatelli and broth into warm soup bowls immediately. They wait for no one. As they sit, they absorb broth and lose their texture. Pass additional grated Parmigiano-Reggiano at the table for those who want it, though the passatelli themselves contain so much cheese that restraint is advisable.
Chef Tips
- •The quality of your breadcrumbs matters enormously. Make them yourself from good white bread, dried in a low oven and ground fine. Commercial breadcrumbs often contain additives that affect the texture.
- •A traditional passatelli iron resembles a potato ricer with large holes and produces the authentic shape. If you cannot find one, a potato ricer works adequately. A food mill with a coarse disc is another option. What you cannot use is a cookie press or anything that produces thin strands.
- •In Romagna, we sometimes serve passatelli asciutti, dressed with butter and sage or a light meat sauce instead of in brodo. This is delicious but requires firmer passatelli that can withstand tossing. Reduce the eggs slightly if attempting this variation.
- •The broth becomes cloudy from the cheese and breadcrumbs. This is correct. You are not making consommé. You are making a hearty soup where the cooking liquid and the pasta become one thing.
Advance Preparation
- •The dough can be made up to 24 hours ahead and refrigerated, tightly wrapped. Bring to room temperature before pressing.
- •The broth should be made well in advance. Good broth takes hours. Make it the day before or freeze portions specifically for dishes like this.
- •Passatelli cannot be made ahead once cooked. They must go from the iron to the broth to the bowl to the table without pause.
Frequently Asked Questions
Nutrition Information
1 serving (about 370g)
Calories
400 calories
Total Fat
19 g
Saturated Fat
10 g
Trans Fat
0 g
Unsaturated Fat
8 g
Cholesterol
122 mg
Sodium
1340 mg
Total Carbohydrates
26 g
Dietary Fiber
1 g
Sugars
2 g
Protein
31 g
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