
Chef Graziella
Cannelloni Ricotta e Spinaci
Hand-rolled pasta sheets wrapped around a filling of ricotta and spinach, covered in besciamella and baked until golden. This is the Sunday cooking of Emilia-Romagna, made without shortcuts.
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The summer parmigiana of Campania, where charred zucchini replaces eggplant, proving that restraint and proper technique create dishes as satisfying as any fried indulgence.
In Campania, when summer arrives and the eggplants give way to an abundance of zucchini, the home cook adapts. This is not a compromise. This is a different dish entirely, lighter and more delicate, suited to the season when you want something substantial but not heavy.
The zucchini must be grilled, not fried. Some will tell you this makes it a lesser parmigiana. They are wrong. The char adds complexity that fried zucchini cannot match. What you lose in richness, you gain in clarity of flavor. Each component remains distinct: the smoky vegetable, the sweet tomato, the yielding mozzarella, the sharp bite of aged Parmigiano.
The technique matters more here than with eggplant. Zucchini is mostly water. If you do not salt it thoroughly and grill it properly, you will have a soggy mess that cannot hold its shape. But when you do it correctly, when each slice is charred and firm, when the sauce has reduced to the proper consistency, when the mozzarella has been drained of its excess liquid, you will understand why Neapolitan grandmothers have made this dish for generations.
While parmigiana di melanzane claims ancient roots in southern Italy, the zucchini variation emerged as a practical summer adaptation in Campania's home kitchens during the 20th century. As lighter cooking became fashionable, grilling replaced frying, and what began as a thrifty substitution earned its own devoted following along the Amalfi coast and in Naples.
Quantity
2 1/2 pounds (about 6)
sliced lengthwise 1/4 inch thick
Quantity
for salting and seasoning
Quantity
1/4 cup, plus more for brushing
Quantity
1 medium
diced fine
Quantity
2
crushed and peeled
Quantity
1 can (28 ounces)
crushed by hand
Quantity
8, plus more for layering
Quantity
1 pound
sliced 1/4 inch thick and drained
Quantity
1 cup
freshly grated
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| medium zucchinisliced lengthwise 1/4 inch thick | 2 1/2 pounds (about 6) |
| kosher salt | for salting and seasoning |
| extra virgin olive oil | 1/4 cup, plus more for brushing |
| yellow oniondiced fine | 1 medium |
| garlic clovescrushed and peeled | 2 |
| San Marzano tomatoescrushed by hand | 1 can (28 ounces) |
| fresh basil leaves | 8, plus more for layering |
| fresh mozzarella (fior di latte)sliced 1/4 inch thick and drained | 1 pound |
| Parmigiano-Reggianofreshly grated | 1 cup |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
Lay the zucchini slices in a single layer on clean kitchen towels or paper towels. Salt both sides generously. Let them rest for 30 minutes. The salt draws out moisture, which is essential. Watery zucchini makes a soggy parmigiana. After 30 minutes, blot each slice firmly with fresh towels until no more moisture appears.
In a wide saucepan, warm the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until completely soft and pale gold, about 12 minutes. Add the crushed garlic and cook one minute more. Remove and discard the garlic. Add the crushed tomatoes and the basil leaves. Season with salt. Let the sauce simmer gently, uncovered, until it thickens and the raw tomato taste disappears, about 25 minutes. Stir occasionally. The sauce should coat a spoon.
Heat a grill pan or outdoor grill to high heat. Brush the zucchini slices lightly with olive oil on both sides. Grill in batches until tender and marked with char lines, about 2 minutes per side. The slices should be pliable, not mushy. Transfer to a plate as you work. Do not stack them while hot or they will steam and lose their texture.
Slice the fresh mozzarella and lay the slices on paper towels for at least 15 minutes before assembling. Fresh mozzarella releases liquid as it melts. If you skip this step, you will have a puddle at the bottom of your baking dish.
Heat your oven to 375 degrees. Spread a thin layer of tomato sauce across the bottom of a 9 by 13 inch baking dish. Arrange a layer of zucchini slices, overlapping them slightly. Top with sauce, then mozzarella slices, then scattered Parmigiano-Reggiano, then a few torn basil leaves. Repeat the layers: zucchini, sauce, mozzarella, Parmigiano, basil. Finish with a final layer of zucchini topped only with sauce and Parmigiano.
Bake uncovered until the top is golden and the sauce bubbles at the edges, 35 to 40 minutes. The cheese should be melted and beginning to brown in spots. If the top browns too quickly, tent loosely with foil.
Remove from the oven and let the parmigiana rest for at least 15 minutes before cutting. This is not optional. The layers need time to set, the juices need time to redistribute. If you cut it immediately, it will collapse into a heap on the plate. Patience. Scatter a few fresh basil leaves over the top before serving.
1 serving (about 390g)
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