Parmigiana di Melanzane

What Americans call eggplant parmesan bears little resemblance to the original. The American version is a main course, breaded slabs of eggplant buried under a blanket of melted cheese, drowning in sauce. The Neapolitan parmigiana is something else entirely: a vegetable dish, restrained and elegant, meant to accompany a meal rather than overwhelm it.

The eggplant must be salted properly. This is not a suggestion. Unsalted eggplant is bitter and absorbs oil like a sponge. One hour of salting draws out the dark, acrid liquid and transforms the texture. Two hours is better. Those who skip this step and complain that their parmigiana tastes wrong have only themselves to blame.

The frying is traditional and essential. The slices should emerge golden and tender, with a slight resistance at the edge. Those who wish to bake instead of fry may do so, but they should know what they are sacrificing. Simple does not mean easy. Every step in this recipe exists for a reason, and shortcuts announce themselves in the final dish.