Pappa al Pomodoro

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Heavy 4-quart pot or Dutch oven
• •Wooden spoon

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare the tomatoes

   If using fresh tomatoes, bring a large pot of water to a boil. Cut a small X in the bottom of each tomato. Blanch for 30 seconds, then transfer to ice water. The skins will slip off easily. Core and chop roughly, saving all the juices. If using canned tomatoes, crush them by hand in a bowl. Do not use a blender. You want texture, not baby food.

   Fresh tomatoes are correct only in high summer when they smell like tomatoes. In winter, good canned San Marzano are superior to the pale, mealy things sold in supermarkets.
2. 2

   Infuse the oil with garlic

   In a heavy pot, warm the olive oil over medium-low heat. Add the crushed garlic cloves. Let them cook gently, turning once or twice, until they are pale gold and fragrant, about 3 minutes. Remove and discard the garlic. What remains is perfume, not presence. This is the difference between Italian cooking and what Americans imagine it to be.

3. 3

   Cook the tomatoes

   Add the tomatoes with their juices to the garlic-infused oil. Raise the heat to medium. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes break down and the mixture thickens slightly, about 15 minutes. The raw edge should disappear. Season with salt.

4. 4

   Add the broth and bread

   Pour in the chicken broth and bring to a gentle simmer. Tear half the basil leaves and add them to the pot. Add the bread chunks, stirring to submerge them. The bread will seem reluctant at first, floating stubbornly. Keep stirring. Within minutes it will begin to absorb the liquid and fall apart. This is correct.

   The bread must be stale, at least two days old. Fresh bread turns to paste. Proper Tuscan bread has no salt, which helps it absorb liquid without becoming gummy. If using salted bread, reduce the added salt accordingly.
5. 5

   Simmer until thickened

   Reduce heat to low and cook, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon, until the bread has dissolved completely into the soup and the texture is thick and porridge-like, about 20 minutes. The spoon should leave a trail when dragged across the bottom of the pot. If the soup becomes too thick, add a splash more broth. Taste and adjust salt.

6. 6

   Rest and serve

   Remove from heat and let the soup rest for at least 10 minutes. Pappa al pomodoro is not served piping hot. It should be warm, even room temperature in summer. Ladle into bowls. Tear the remaining basil over each serving. Drizzle generously with your finest olive oil. The oil is not optional. It is the point. Add black pepper if you like, and serve.

Chef Tips

• •The olive oil you use for finishing should be the best you own. This is where you taste it most directly, uncooked and unmasked. A peppery Tuscan oil is traditional, but any high-quality extra virgin will serve.
• •Pappa al pomodoro improves if left to sit for an hour before serving. Some Tuscans prefer it the next day, gently rewarmed. The bread continues to absorb flavor as it rests.
• •Do not be tempted to add Parmigiano-Reggiano. This is a Tuscan dish, and Tuscans traditionally do not grate cheese over bread soups. The olive oil provides richness enough.
• •If you have only fresh bread, slice it thin and toast it in a low oven until completely dry and crisp. Let it cool before using. This is a reasonable approximation of properly stale bread.

Advance Preparation

• •The soup can be made a day ahead and refrigerated. It will thicken considerably. Add a splash of broth when reheating and stir well to restore the proper consistency.
• •If serving at room temperature, prepare the soup in the morning and let it sit, covered, until dinner. Add the fresh basil and olive oil just before serving.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 365g)