
Chef Thomas
Anglesey Eggs
Eggs bedded into leek-flecked mash under a blanket of sharp cheese sauce, baked until golden and bubbling. A Welsh supper dish that proves the simplest things are usually the best.
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Trout fried in foaming butter until the skin goes golden and crisp, a handful of almonds toasted in the same pan, a squeeze of lemon, and the kind of quiet weeknight supper that makes you wonder why you ever bother with anything more complicated.
The smell of butter turning brown in a hot pan. That's where this starts. Not with a recipe, not with a plan, but with a piece of fish, a knob of butter, and the fifteen minutes between getting home and sitting down.
Trout with almonds is borrowed from the French and we've never given it back, which tells you something about how good it is. A river fish, simply fried, the skin gone tight and golden, then a scatter of flaked almonds toasted in the same butter until they catch and turn the colour of autumn leaves. A squeeze of lemon. Some parsley if you've got it. That's the whole thing. We're only making dinner.
I buy trout when I see it looking bright-eyed and firm at the fishmonger's. It's not a fish that needs a plan. It needs butter, attention, and a hot pan. The almonds were the French addition, and they were right: the sweetness of the nut against the clean, mild flesh of the fish is one of those combinations that feels inevitable, as if someone should have thought of it sooner.
I wrote it down in the notebook years ago. Just: trout, almonds, brown butter, Tuesday. I've cooked it dozens of times since and the note still holds. Some meals don't need more words than that.
Quantity
2, or 4 fillets
gutted and cleaned, patted dry
Quantity
2-3 tablespoons
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
40g, plus a little more
Quantity
a small splash
Quantity
50g
Quantity
1
Quantity
a small handful
roughly chopped
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| whole troutgutted and cleaned, patted dry | 2, or 4 fillets |
| plain flour | 2-3 tablespoons |
| fine sea salt | to taste |
| black pepper | to taste |
| unsalted butter | 40g, plus a little more |
| light olive oil | a small splash |
| flaked almonds | 50g |
| lemon | 1 |
| flat-leaf parsley (optional)roughly chopped | a small handful |
Pat the trout thoroughly dry with kitchen paper. This matters. Wet fish won't crisp. Season generously with salt and pepper, inside the cavity if using whole fish, on both sides if fillets. Scatter the flour onto a plate and dust the fish lightly on both sides, shaking off any excess. You want a whisper of flour, not a coating. It helps the skin go properly golden and gives the butter something to cling to.
Put your widest pan over a medium-high heat. Add the splash of oil and half the butter. When the butter foams and the foam begins to subside, lay the trout in the pan, skin-side down if using fillets. Don't crowd them. If your pan isn't big enough for both, do them one at a time and keep the first warm on a plate in a low oven. Cook without moving for three to four minutes. You'll hear the sizzle settle into a steady, confident murmur. When the edges have turned opaque and the underside is golden, turn the fish carefully and give it another two to three minutes on the other side. The flesh should flake easily when pressed gently with a finger. Lift the fish onto warm plates.
With the fish resting on its plates, turn the heat down a little. Add the remaining butter to the same pan. As it melts and begins to foam, scatter in the flaked almonds. Stir them gently, watching closely. They'll go from pale to golden to the colour of dark honey in a matter of a minute, sometimes less. Trust your nose here. When the butter smells of hazelnuts and the almonds have taken on a warm, toasted colour, they're done. This is the moment that matters. Ten seconds too long and you've lost it.
Take the pan off the heat. Squeeze in the juice of half the lemon. It will hiss and spit in the hot butter, which is exactly right. Stir the parsley through the almonds and spoon the whole lot over the fish: butter, almonds, lemon, parsley, everything in the pan. Cut the remaining lemon into wedges and put them on the plate. Serve immediately. This doesn't wait.
1 serving (about 250g)
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