
Chef Lupita
Animalitos de Yema Comitecos
Comitán's pan de yema shaped into little pigs, birds, and rabbits, a Chiapas bakery bread rich with egg yolks, manteca de cerdo, and anís, baked golden on hoja de plátano.
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Tabasco's merienda loaf, built from ripe plátano macho, wheat flour, manteca de cerdo, and canela, baked in a banana-leaf-lined pan until the crumb turns tender and golden.
Tabasco, especially the humid lowlands around Villahermosa and La Chontalpa, knows what to do with plátano macho. This is not banana cake from a coffee shop. This is pan de plátano for the merienda table, made when the plantains have gone black on the counter and the kitchen smells of canela, piloncillo, and fat warming in the oven.
The plantain is the point. It has to be plátano macho, fully ripe, soft enough to mash with a fork and sweet enough to perfume the batter. A yellow plantain will fight you. A black-skinned plantain will give you a tender crumb and a deep fruit flavor that belongs to Tabasco's wet heat, river markets, and backyard cooking.
The manteca matters. Butter makes a different bread. Oil makes a weaker one. Manteca de cerdo gives the loaf its soft, even crumb and the old panadería flavor that women in Villahermosa learned before recipes became little performance pieces on screens. La cocina no es decoración, es trabajo.
Line the pan with hoja de plátano if you can. It gives the crust a green, quiet aroma and reminds you where this bread comes from. No chile, no salsa, no noise. Cada estado, su propia cocina.
Plantains and bananas are not pre-Columbian Mexican crops; they reached the Americas through Spanish and Portuguese routes in the 16th century and took quickly to the hot, wet Gulf and Caribbean regions. Tabasco became one of Mexico's important banana-growing states in the 20th century, especially in the riverine and lowland zones where export agriculture and home cooking both depended on the same abundance. Pan de plátano reflects that history: colonial wheat flour and chemical leavening folded around a tropical fruit that Tabasco made its own.
Quantity
2 large
black-skinned, peeled and mashed
Quantity
1 3/4 cups
Quantity
3/4 cup
finely grated, or use dark brown sugar
Quantity
1/2 cup
softened, plus more for greasing
Quantity
2
at room temperature
Quantity
1/3 cup
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 1/2 teaspoons
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1
rinsed and softened over a flame or comal, for lining the pan
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| very ripe plátanos machosblack-skinned, peeled and mashed | 2 large |
| all-purpose wheat flour | 1 3/4 cups |
| piloncillofinely grated, or use dark brown sugar | 3/4 cup |
| manteca de cerdosoftened, plus more for greasing | 1/2 cup |
| large eggsat room temperature | 2 |
| whole milk | 1/3 cup |
| vanilla extract | 1 teaspoon |
| baking powder | 1 1/2 teaspoons |
| baking soda | 1/2 teaspoon |
| ground canela mexicana | 1 teaspoon |
| fine sea salt | 1/2 teaspoon |
| fresh hoja de plátanorinsed and softened over a flame or comal, for lining the pan | 1 |
Heat the oven to 350F. Grease a 9 by 5-inch loaf pan with manteca de cerdo. Pass the hoja de plátano over a gas flame or hot comal for a few seconds per side until it turns glossy and flexible. Line the pan with it, trimming the edges so they fold neatly over the sides. The leaf is not decoration. It protects the crust and gives the loaf a Tabasco aroma.
Peel the black-skinned plátanos machos and mash them in a bowl with a fork until mostly smooth, leaving a few small pieces. You want about 1 1/2 cups. If the plantain resists the fork, it is not ripe enough. Wait another day. No me vengas con atajos.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the wheat flour, baking powder, baking soda, ground canela mexicana, and salt. Mix well so the leavening is evenly distributed. Quick breads rise fast and forgive less than people think.
In a large bowl, beat the softened manteca de cerdo with the grated piloncillo until the mixture looks lighter and slightly fluffy, about 2 minutes by hand or 1 minute with a mixer. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each. The fat holds air here, and that air helps the loaf rise. La manteca es el sabor, and it is also structure.
Stir the mashed plantain, milk, and vanilla into the egg mixture. Add the dry ingredients and fold just until no dry streaks remain. Do not beat the batter hard. Wheat flour toughens when you bully it, and this bread should slice tender, not rubbery.
Scrape the batter into the banana-leaf-lined pan and smooth the top. Bake for 50 to 60 minutes, until the top is deep golden, the center springs back lightly, and a skewer inserted in the middle comes out with a few moist crumbs. If the top browns before the center sets, cover it loosely with foil for the last 10 minutes.
Let the bread cool in the pan for 15 minutes, then lift it out using the hoja de plátano and set it on a rack. Wait at least 30 minutes before slicing. Hot quick bread tears. Warm quick bread cuts clean. Serve thick slices with café de olla, atole, or a jícara of pozol if you want the Tabasco table to speak clearly.
1 serving (about 100g)
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