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Black Bean Tostadas with Pickled Onion
Crisp corn tostadas piled with velvety black beans, their earthiness cut by the sharp brightness of quick-pickled red onions, finished with crumbled queso fresco and torn cilantro leaves.
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The Provençal sandwich that improves with time: crusty bread bathed in olive oil, layered with summer tomatoes, oil-packed tuna, eggs, olives, and basil, then pressed until the flavors become inseparable.
Pan bagnat is salade niçoise in sandwich form, and it is the finest picnic food I know. The name means bathed bread in the Niçoise dialect, which tells you everything about how it is made. The bread drinks olive oil until it softens. The tomatoes release their juice. Everything melds into one thing.
This is a sandwich you make ahead because it demands time. Two hours minimum. Overnight if you can manage it. The pressing transforms it. When you unwrap it, the bread will have compressed around the filling, the layers fused together, the flavors married in ways that fresh assembly cannot replicate.
Start with the tomatoes. They should be summer tomatoes at their peak, heavy and fragrant before you slice them. If the tomatoes are not ripe, wait for another day or another sandwich. Everything else follows from that. Good bread, honest olive oil, tuna packed in oil rather than water. The anchovy is traditional and I encourage it. It adds a depth that you will miss without it, even if you cannot name what is missing.
Quantity
1 large boule or 4 rolls
Quantity
1/2 cup
divided
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
2 cans (5 ounces each)
drained
Quantity
3 medium
sliced 1/4-inch thick
Quantity
1 small
sliced paper-thin
Quantity
4
sliced
Quantity
1/2 cup
pitted and halved
Quantity
2 tablespoons
drained
Quantity
4
Quantity
1 small
sliced thin
Quantity
1 small
seeded and sliced into rings
Quantity
12
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
freshly cracked
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| round boule or French rolls | 1 large boule or 4 rolls |
| extra-virgin olive oildivided | 1/2 cup |
| red wine vinegar | 2 tablespoons |
| olive oil-packed tunadrained | 2 cans (5 ounces each) |
| ripe tomatoessliced 1/4-inch thick | 3 medium |
| red onionsliced paper-thin | 1 small |
| hard-boiled eggssliced | 4 |
| Niçoise or Kalamata olivespitted and halved | 1/2 cup |
| capersdrained | 2 tablespoons |
| anchovy fillets (optional) | 4 |
| cucumbersliced thin | 1 small |
| green bell pepperseeded and sliced into rings | 1 small |
| fresh basil leaves | 12 |
| flaky sea salt | to taste |
| black pepperfreshly cracked | to taste |
Slice the boule in half horizontally, or split each roll. Pull out some of the soft interior crumb to create shallow wells on both halves. This gives the filling room to settle without making the sandwich unwieldy. Save the crumb for breadcrumbs if you like.
Whisk together the olive oil and red wine vinegar. Brush or drizzle this mixture generously over both cut surfaces, using all of it. The bread should drink the oil. This is not a light touch. Pan bagnat means bathed bread, and you want the bread to soak through and soften as it rests.
On the bottom half of the bread, layer the tomato slices first, overlapping them slightly. Season with sea salt. The tomatoes release juice as they rest, which mingles with the oil and vinegar. Add the cucumber slices and bell pepper rings. Scatter the olives and capers over the vegetables.
Break the drained tuna into large flakes and distribute evenly. Do not mash it into a paste. Layer the egg slices over the tuna. If using anchovies, drape them across the eggs now. Their brininess is traditional, and they melt into the sandwich as it rests.
Scatter the paper-thin red onion over everything. Tear the basil leaves and tuck them into the layers. Season with black pepper. The onion will soften and lose its bite as the sandwich presses.
Place the top half of bread firmly over the filling. Wrap the entire sandwich tightly in plastic wrap, then again in aluminum foil. Set the wrapped sandwich on a plate and weight it down with a heavy skillet, a few cans, or a brick wrapped in a towel. The pressure is the point.
Refrigerate the weighted sandwich for at least two hours. Overnight is better. The bread softens and compresses, the tomato juices and olive oil soak through, and all the flavors marry into something more than the sum of their parts. The sandwich improves the longer it sits, up to 24 hours.
Remove from refrigerator thirty minutes before eating if you prefer it closer to room temperature. Unwrap and slice into wedges if using a boule. The cross-section should reveal distinct layers of color: red tomato, pale egg, pink tuna, green basil. Serve with more olives alongside if you wish.
1 serving (about 470g)
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