
Chef Lupita
Birria Tacos with Consome
Jalisco's goat birria, born around Cocula and carried into Guadalajara's markets, slow-braised in ancho, guajillo, cascabel, and chile de arbol, then tucked into corn tortillas crisped in its own red fat.
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Guanajuato's Bajio pambazo is a bolillo dipped in chile guajillo, fried in manteca, opened while warm, and filled with potato and pork chorizo.
Guanajuato, Bajio. This pambazo lives in the market corridor from Leon to Celaya, where the bread has a hard crust, the chile stain is brick red, and the filling is papa cocida with chorizo de cerdo. Not flour tortilla. Not American sub roll. Bolillo or telera. Cada estado, su propia cocina.
The salsa is guajillo. Some cooks add one chile ancho for body, but the guajillo is the spine: clean red color, mild heat, and that dry fruit flavor that holds up when the bread hits the manteca. You dip the bread lightly, not until it drowns. Then you fry it in manteca de cerdo so the outside goes red, glossy, and a little crisp while the crumb stays soft enough to hold the potato.
I learned this version from a señora in a Guanajuato market who kept her chorizo in a clay cazuela and pressed each dipped bolillo on the comal with the flat of her hand. She did not decorate it. She fed people. Lechuga, queso fresco, crema if your house uses it, and chiles en escabeche on the side. La cocina no es decoración, es trabajo.
The word pambazo is commonly linked to the colonial-era term pan basso or pan bajo, a lower-status bread made with less refined flour and sold for everyday eating rather than elite tables. Regional versions separated over time: Veracruz kept a flour-dusted pambazo often filled with beans or sausage, while central Mexico developed the chile-dipped and fried form associated with market food. In the Bajio, especially Guanajuato and neighboring Queretaro, the potato and pork chorizo filling fits the region's wheat bread culture, pig raising, and practical market cooking.
Quantity
6
day-old if possible
Quantity
6
stemmed and seeded
Quantity
1
stemmed and seeded
Quantity
2
roasted until blistered
Quantity
1/4 medium
roasted
Quantity
2
unpeeled and roasted, then peeled
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
toasted
Quantity
1 teaspoon, plus more to taste
Quantity
1/2 cup, as needed
Quantity
1 1/2 pounds
boiled until tender, peeled, and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
Quantity
12 ounces
casing removed
Quantity
3 tablespoons, divided, plus more as needed
Quantity
2 cups
thinly shredded
Quantity
3/4 cup
crumbled
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
for serving
Quantity
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| Bajio-style bolillos or telerasday-old if possible | 6 |
| dried chile guajillostemmed and seeded | 6 |
| dried chile anchostemmed and seeded | 1 |
| Roma tomatoesroasted until blistered | 2 |
| white onionroasted | 1/4 medium |
| garlic clovesunpeeled and roasted, then peeled | 2 |
| dried Mexican oregano | 1/2 teaspoon |
| cumin seedtoasted | 1/4 teaspoon |
| kosher salt | 1 teaspoon, plus more to taste |
| chile soaking liquid | 1/2 cup, as needed |
| yellow potatoesboiled until tender, peeled, and cut into 1/2-inch cubes | 1 1/2 pounds |
| pork chorizocasing removed | 12 ounces |
| manteca de cerdo | 3 tablespoons, divided, plus more as needed |
| romaine lettucethinly shredded | 2 cups |
| queso frescocrumbled | 3/4 cup |
| Mexican crema (optional) | 1/2 cup |
| chiles en escabeche (optional) | for serving |
| extra salsa de guajillo (optional) | for serving |
Heat a dry comal over medium. Toast the chile guajillo one at a time, about 20 to 30 seconds per side, just until the skins darken slightly and smell fruity. Toast the chile ancho the same way. Do not blacken them. Burned chile makes a bitter salsa, and no amount of crema will save it.
Put the toasted chiles in a bowl and cover with hot water, not boiling water. Let them soften for 15 minutes. Hot water relaxes the flesh. Boiling water punishes the skin and can pull bitterness into the salsa. Drain, saving 1/2 cup of the soaking liquid.
Blend the softened chiles with the roasted tomatoes, roasted onion, peeled roasted garlic, Mexican oregano, toasted cumin, salt, and enough soaking liquid to move the blades. Blend until very smooth, then strain through a fine sieve. The salsa should be brick red and loose enough to coat bread, not thick like mole.
Melt 1 tablespoon manteca de cerdo in a skillet over medium heat. Add the strained salsa carefully because it will jump. Cook 6 to 8 minutes, stirring often, until the color deepens and the raw chile smell disappears. Taste for salt. This frying sets the flavor into the fat. La manteca es el sabor.
In a wide skillet, cook the pork chorizo over medium heat until the fat renders and the meat darkens, 8 to 10 minutes. Break it into small pieces with a wooden spoon. You want browned edges and red fat in the pan. That fat will season the potato. Do not drain it unless the chorizo is swimming.
Add the boiled potato cubes to the chorizo. Fold gently so the potatoes take the red fat without turning into puree. Cook 5 to 7 minutes, pressing a few pieces against the pan so they roughen at the edges. Taste for salt. The filling should be savory and sturdy enough to stay inside the bread.
Split each bolillo lengthwise, leaving one side attached like a hinge. Brush or quickly dip the outside of each bread in the warm guajillo salsa. Do not soak the crumb. A pambazo should be stained and seasoned, not collapsing in your hands. No me vengas con atajos.
Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons manteca on a comal or wide skillet over medium heat. Place the dipped bolillos cut side down first for 1 minute, then turn and fry the stained outsides until glossy, red, and lightly crisp, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Press gently with a spatula so the crust meets the fat evenly.
Open each warm pambazo and spoon in the papa con chorizo. Add shredded romaine, crumbled queso fresco, and crema if using. Serve immediately with chiles en escabeche and extra salsa de guajillo in a small barro dish. The bread should give under your teeth, the outside should taste of chile and manteca, and the filling should be generous. Asi se hace y punto.
1 serving (about 370g)
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