
Chef Margarida
Areias de Cascais
The sand cookies of Cascais, where three simple ingredients become something that melts on your tongue and sparkles like the beach at sunset. Butter, flour, sugar. That's all. That's enough.
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The delicate cookie sticks of Coimbra, where students have been dunking them in coffee between lectures for generations. Simple dough, patient rolling, and the kind of crispness that shatters at first bite.
Coimbra gave Portugal its oldest university and these slender little cookies that have fueled students through centuries of exams and late-night studying. I first tasted them at a tiny pastelaria near the Sé Velha, handed to me by a woman who'd been making them since before I was born. She didn't measure anything. Her hands just knew.
Palitos are humble cookies. No cream, no filling, no showmanship. Just butter, sugar, flour, eggs, and a little lemon zest rolled into thin sticks and baked until they snap. The kind of baking that looks simple until you try it and realize the simplicity is the challenge. Too thick and they're heavy. Too thin and they burn. The grandmother I documented in Coimbra told me the dough should feel like an earlobe. I laughed, but she was right.
At Mesa da Avó, I serve these alongside coffee at the end of the meal. Guests always reach for seconds. There's something about the lightness, the way they shatter between your teeth, the subtle sweetness that doesn't overwhelm. This is the kind of baking that padarias used to do before everything became about spectacle. Cookie sticks. Nothing more. Nothing less. Everything they need to be.
Palitos de Coimbra emerged from the baking traditions surrounding Portugal's oldest university, founded in 1290. Like many Portuguese sweets, they likely have roots in convent kitchens, though their simple ingredients suggest a recipe that traveled easily into home kitchens and padarias. The cookies became associated with student life, sold cheaply near the university and perfect for eating between lectures.
Quantity
250g
plus more for rolling
Quantity
125g
at room temperature
Quantity
100g
Quantity
2 large
Quantity
1
Quantity
1
zested
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
pinch
Quantity
1
beaten with 1 tablespoon water, for egg wash
Quantity
for sprinkling
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| all-purpose flourplus more for rolling | 250g |
| unsalted butterat room temperature | 125g |
| granulated sugar | 100g |
| egg yolks | 2 large |
| whole egg | 1 |
| lemonzested | 1 |
| ground cinnamon (canela) | 1/2 teaspoon |
| fine salt | pinch |
| eggbeaten with 1 tablespoon water, for egg wash | 1 |
| granulated sugar | for sprinkling |
In a large bowl, beat the softened butter with the sugar until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes by hand or 2 minutes with an electric mixer. The mixture should turn pale and hold soft peaks. This is where the lightness comes from. Don't rush it.
Beat in the egg yolks one at a time, then the whole egg. Add the lemon zest, cinnamon, and salt. Mix until everything is combined and the batter smells like something worth eating. The lemon and canela should hit you when you lean in.
Add the flour gradually, mixing until a soft dough forms. It should be smooth but slightly tacky. Don't overwork it. The moment it comes together, stop. Divide the dough in half, flatten each piece into a disc, wrap in plastic, and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. Cold dough rolls without sticking.
Preheat your oven to 180°C (350°F). Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Have your egg wash and sugar ready for finishing.
On a lightly floured surface, roll one disc of dough to about 3mm thick. You want it thin but not paper-thin. Using a sharp knife or pastry wheel, cut strips about 8cm long and 1cm wide. Transfer to the prepared baking sheets, leaving a finger's width between each. They'll spread slightly but not much.
Brush each palito lightly with egg wash, then sprinkle with sugar. Not too much. A light snowfall. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, rotating the trays halfway through, until the edges are golden and the tops are set. The cookies should be pale gold, not brown. They crisp as they cool.
Let the palitos cool on the baking sheet for 5 minutes, then transfer to a wire rack. They'll seem soft at first but will turn crisp and delicate as they reach room temperature. Don't stack them until they're completely cool or they'll stick. Once cooled, they should snap cleanly when you bite them.
1 serving (about 9g)
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