
Chef Isabel
Abanico Ibérico a la Plancha
Extremadura's dehesa gives us this fan-shaped, marbled rib cut: salt it at the last moment, lay it on a fierce plancha, and count in seconds so the centre stays juicy.
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Paella de marisco is Valencia's coastal rice: prawns, mussels, squid, bomba and fish fumet in a wide paellera, cooked dry and left alone until the bottom catches into socarrat.
Paella de marisco is Valencia's coastal rice, the sea-going cousin of the inland Paella Valenciana, and it earns the name only when it cooks dry in a wide paellera. Prawns, mussels, squid, bomba rice, saffron, and fish fumet. Not a soupy arroz caldoso, not a creamy arroz meloso, and no chorizo hiding in the pan. Eso no es paella; es otra cosa.
Two things decide it, but one rules the pot once the stock goes in: leave the rice alone. Build the sofrito first, the slow tomato and garlic base, until the tomato is dark, thick, and the oil shines around it. Then stir in the rice, add the hot fumet all at once, spread it flat, and stop. Stirring works the starch loose; paella wants separate grains and a dry finish, with the socarrat catching underneath.
If you're far from Valencia, use Calasparra rice if bomba is out of reach; arborio only at a pinch, with a little less fumet, and don't treat it like risotto. Shell-on prawns give more flavor than peeled ones, frozen squid is fine if you thaw it dry, and a good canned tomato beats a sad fresh one. No hace falta haber pisado España.
At my table I bring the pan itself to the center and let people listen before they eat, that quiet crackle at the bottom tells you the rice did what it was told. Rest it five minutes under a cloth, set lemon at the side if you like, and serve from the paellera. Siempre sale, si lo sigues.
Paella belongs to Valencia, where the rice fields around l'Albufera made short-grain rice part of the local larder and the shallow two-handled paella, the pan, gave the dish its name. The inland Paella Valenciana is the older named form, with chicken, rabbit, bajoqueta, garrofó, and sometimes snails; seafood paellas belong to the coast, where fish fumet and shellfish made another true local rice. The dry finish matters: arroz caldoso is brothier, arroz meloso is creamy, and not every arroz in a wide pan is paella.
Quantity
400g
not rinsed
Quantity
1.2L
Quantity
12, about 500g
Quantity
300g
scrubbed and debearded
Quantity
250g
purged
Quantity
350g
cleaned and cut into rings or bite-size pieces
Quantity
80ml
Quantity
200g fresh or 180g canned
fresh tomato grated, skins discarded
Quantity
4
finely chopped
Quantity
1 pepper or 1 tablespoon
pepper soaked and flesh scraped
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
0.2g
lightly toasted and crumbled
Quantity
8g, plus more only if needed
Quantity
1
cut into wedges
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| bomba ricenot rinsed | 400g |
| hot fish fumet or good fish stock | 1.2L |
| raw shell-on prawns or langoustines | 12, about 500g |
| musselsscrubbed and debearded | 300g |
| small clams or extra mussels (optional)purged | 250g |
| squid or cuttlefishcleaned and cut into rings or bite-size pieces | 350g |
| extra virgin olive oil | 80ml |
| ripe tomato or good canned crushed tomatofresh tomato grated, skins discarded | 200g fresh or 180g canned |
| garlic clovesfinely chopped | 4 |
| dried ñora pepper or ñora pastepepper soaked and flesh scraped | 1 pepper or 1 tablespoon |
| sweet pimentón | 1 teaspoon |
| saffron threadslightly toasted and crumbled | 0.2g |
| fine sea salt | 8g, plus more only if needed |
| lemon (optional)cut into wedges | 1 |
Scrub the mussels and pull away the beards. Purge the clams, if using, in cold salted water for 30 minutes, then lift them out instead of pouring the grit back over them. Discard any mussel or clam with a cracked shell, and any open one that does not close when tapped. Nadie nace sabiendo, but bad shellfish is not where we practice.
Put the fish fumet in a saucepan with the crumbled saffron and bring it to a bare simmer. Add 6g of the salt, taste, and keep the rest nearby. The fumet should taste a little fuller than soup because the rice will drink it. Keep it hot, but do not let it boil away.
Ladle 100ml of the hot fumet into a small covered pan, add the mussels and clams, and cook just until they open, 3 to 5 minutes. Lift them out and reserve them. Strain the shellfish liquor through a fine sieve back into the fumet, then measure the hot liquid back to 1.2L with a little water if needed. Discard any shells that stay closed.
Set a 38 to 42cm paellera over a wide burner or across two burners and heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Sear the prawns or langoustines for about 45 seconds per side, just until the shells turn red and glossy, then lift them out. Add the squid or cuttlefish with a pinch of salt and cook until its liquid evaporates and the edges begin to catch lightly.
Lower the heat to medium. Add the garlic to the squid and stir for 30 seconds, then add the grated tomato, ñora flesh or paste, and sweet pimentón. Cook, stirring often, until the tomato turns dark, thick, and almost jammy, 10 to 12 minutes. This is the sweetness of the dish. Leave it wet and the rice boils in tomato water.
Scatter the bomba rice into the paellera and stir it through the sofrito for 1 to 2 minutes, until every grain is glossy with oil and tomato. Spread the rice evenly across the pan. Pésalo, no lo adivines: 400g rice in this size pan gives you the thin layer a paella needs.
Pour in all 1.2L of hot fumet at once. Move the rice only enough to level it across the pan, then stop. From this point, do not stir. Boil lively for 8 minutes, rotating the pan if your burner heats unevenly. Stirring now works the starch loose and takes you toward a creamy arroz, a fine thing, but not this dish.
Lower the heat to medium-low. Arrange the seared prawns over the rice and cook 5 minutes, then tuck the opened mussels and clams on top so they warm without toughening. Cook another 4 to 6 minutes, until the liquid has disappeared, the surface looks dry, and the rice is just tender with a small bite at the center. If the pan dries before the rice is ready, add 60ml hot water or fumet around the edge, never through the middle, and do not stir.
When the rice is nearly dry, raise the heat for 60 to 90 seconds. Listen for the fine crackle at the bottom and smell for toasted rice, not burning. Slip a spoon at the edge to check for a dark golden crust. Take the pan off the heat, cover with a clean cloth, and rest 5 to 10 minutes. Serve from the paellera with lemon wedges at the side if you like, but taste the rice first.
1 serving (about 450g)
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