Pacific Northwest Salmon Chowder

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot (5-6 quart capacity)
• •Wooden spoon for stirring
• •Sharp chef's knife for cutting salmon and vegetables
• •Fish tweezers or needle-nose pliers for pin bones

Instructions

1. 1

   Season the salmon

   Spread your salmon chunks on a plate lined with paper towels. Season lightly with salt and pepper, then let them sit at room temperature while you build the chowder base. This brings the fish closer to room temperature for gentler cooking and draws out surface moisture. Pat them dry again before adding to the pot. Wet fish steams rather than integrates.

   Check your salmon for pin bones by running your fingers along the flesh. A pair of needle-nose pliers or fish tweezers removes any stragglers.
2. 2

   Render the bacon

   Set a large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Add the diced bacon and cook, stirring occasionally, until the fat renders and the pieces turn golden and crisp, about 7 minutes. The bacon provides the smoky foundation that Scandinavian settlers brought to these waters. Listen for the sizzle to mellow as moisture escapes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the bacon to a paper towel-lined plate, leaving the fat in the pot.

3. 3

   Build the aromatic base

   Add the butter to the bacon fat and let it foam. Add the leek, celery, and fennel. Season with a pinch of salt to draw out moisture. Cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables soften and turn translucent, about 6 minutes. The fennel adds a subtle anise note that Northwest cooks borrowed from Italian fishing families who settled the coast. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute more. Your kitchen should smell like the promise of something good.

   Leeks trap grit between their layers. Slice first, then soak in cold water for 5 minutes. Lift them out, letting the sand sink to the bottom.
4. 4

   Deglaze and create the roux

   Pour in the white wine and scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the pot. Let it bubble and reduce by half, about 2 minutes. Sprinkle the flour over the vegetables and stir constantly for 2 minutes. This cooks out the raw flour taste and creates a roux that will give your chowder body without making it gluey. The mixture should look like wet sand clinging to the vegetables.

5. 5

   Add liquid and potatoes

   Slowly pour in the fish stock while stirring constantly. Work in batches, allowing each addition to incorporate before adding more. This prevents lumps and creates a smooth base. Add the potatoes, bay leaves, and thyme. Bring to a simmer and cook, partially covered, until the potatoes are just tender when pierced with a knife, about 15 minutes. They will continue cooking, so pull them slightly underdone.

   If using clam juice, taste your base before adding additional salt. Commercial clam juice runs salty.
6. 6

   Add cream and corn

   Stir in the heavy cream, milk, and corn. Reduce heat to low and simmer gently for 5 minutes. Never let a cream-based chowder boil vigorously once the dairy goes in. High heat causes the cream to break, leaving you with a greasy, curdled mess instead of silky richness. The surface should barely tremble.

7. 7

   Poach the salmon

   Remove the pot from heat entirely. Gently nestle the salmon chunks into the hot liquid, submerging them as much as possible. Cover and let stand for 8 to 10 minutes. The residual heat cooks the salmon gently, keeping it moist and flaky. Resist the urge to stir or you'll break the fish into shreds. After 8 minutes, check a thicker piece by pressing gently. It should flake easily but still look slightly translucent at the very center. Carryover heat finishes the job.

   This off-heat poaching technique works because chowder base holds temperature remarkably well. Trust the process.
8. 8

   Season and finish

   Remove the bay leaves. Gently fold in the chopped dill and lemon juice. The lemon brightens everything, cutting through the richness without announcing itself. Taste and adjust salt and pepper. Return half of the reserved bacon to the chowder, saving the rest for garnish. If the chowder has cooled too much, return it to low heat briefly, but do not let it simmer. The salmon is cooked. Any more heat works against you.

9. 9

   Serve with care

   Ladle the chowder into warmed bowls, ensuring each portion receives a generous share of salmon chunks. Top with reserved bacon bits, a scattering of fresh dill, and the reserved fennel fronds if you have them. Serve immediately with oyster crackers on the side. This chowder does not improve with sitting. The salmon continues to cook and the potatoes absorb liquid. Make it, serve it, enjoy it.

Chef Tips

• •Wild king salmon offers the richest flavor and highest fat content, but sockeye or coho work beautifully at a lower price point. Avoid farmed Atlantic salmon if possible. The texture turns mushy in chowder.
• •Make friends with your fishmonger. Ask what came in fresh that morning. The difference between salmon caught yesterday and salmon caught last week is the difference between memorable and mediocre.
• •Yukon Golds hold their shape better than russets, which tend to dissolve and over-thicken the broth. If you only have russets, cut them larger and reduce simmering time.
• •A crisp, unoaked white wine works both in the pot and in your glass. Oregon Pinot Gris or Washington State Sauvignon Blanc complement without competing.
• •Leftover chowder thickens considerably in the refrigerator. Thin with a splash of stock when reheating, and add fresh dill at the end to restore brightness.

Advance Preparation

• •The chowder base (through adding cream and corn, before salmon) can be made up to 1 day ahead and refrigerated. Reheat gently before adding salmon and proceeding with the final steps.
• •Vegetables can be prepped and refrigerated in separate containers up to 1 day ahead.
• •Salmon is best added fresh. Do not add it to the chowder until you are ready to serve.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 375g)