Pacific Northwest Gravlax

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Fish tweezers or needle-nose pliers for pin bones
• •Large rimmed baking sheet or glass baking dish
• •3 lb weight (canned goods, brick, or cast iron skillet)
• •Long thin slicing knife
• •Plastic wrap

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare the salmon

   Run your fingers along the salmon fillet, feeling for pin bones. They'll be concentrated toward the thicker end. Remove them with fish tweezers or needle-nose pliers, pulling at an angle in the direction they point. Check your work twice. Nothing ruins the experience of silken gravlax like an unexpected bone. Pat the fillet completely dry with paper towels and place it skin-side down on a large sheet of plastic wrap.

   If your fishmonger hasn't removed the pin bones, ask them to do it. Most will oblige. The bones run in a line about an inch from where the dorsal fin would be.
2. 2

   Mix the cure

   Combine the salt, sugar, crushed juniper berries, cracked peppercorns, and lemon zest in a bowl. Stir to distribute evenly. The ratio matters here: too much salt produces gravlax that's firm and overly saline, too little leaves it soft and underprocessed. This mixture strikes the balance. Crush the juniper berries with the flat of your knife or the bottom of a pan. You want them cracked open to release their oils, not pulverized into dust.

3. 3

   Apply cure and dill

   Drizzle the aquavit evenly over the flesh side of the salmon. Let it soak in for a moment. Now pack the cure mixture firmly onto the flesh, covering every surface including the sides. Use all of it. The salmon should be completely blanketed in white. Lay one bunch of dill across the cure in a thick, even layer. The dill isn't garnish here. It's a fundamental flavoring, its oils penetrating the fish during the long cure.

   Don't trim the dill stems. The whole bunch goes on, fronds and stems together. Stems hold plenty of flavor.
4. 4

   Wrap tightly

   Fold the plastic wrap over the salmon, creating a snug package. Wrap it again with a second sheet for insurance against leaks. Place the wrapped salmon in a baking dish or rimmed sheet pan to catch the liquid that will weep out over the coming days. This liquid is called the "pellicle" and its release tells you the cure is working.

5. 5

   Weight and refrigerate

   Set another pan or plate on top of the wrapped salmon. Weight it down with something heavy: canned goods, a brick wrapped in foil, a cast iron skillet. You want about three pounds of pressure distributed evenly across the fish. This compression helps the cure penetrate and gives the finished gravlax its characteristic dense, silky texture. Refrigerate immediately.

6. 6

   Flip daily

   Every twelve hours, flip the salmon package over, redistributing the liquid that has collected. This ensures even curing from both sides. The fish will firm noticeably each day. After 48 hours, it will feel dense and spring back when pressed. This is the minimum cure time. At 72 hours, you'll have gravlax that's firmer still, with deeper flavor penetration. I prefer the three-day cure for king salmon, two days for leaner sockeye.

   Set a phone alarm to remind yourself to flip. It's easy to forget, and uneven curing produces gravlax that's mushy on one side and too firm on the other.
7. 7

   Make mustard dill sauce

   Whisk together the Dijon mustard, whole grain mustard, honey, and vinegar in a medium bowl until smooth. Drizzle in the oil slowly while whisking constantly, creating an emulsion like a thin mayonnaise. The sauce should coat a spoon but still flow freely. Fold in the minced dill. Season with salt and white pepper. This sauce, called hovmästarsås in Swedish, is the traditional accompaniment. It keeps refrigerated for a week.

8. 8

   Unwrap and rinse

   Remove the cured salmon from its wrapping. Discard the dill, which will have wilted and darkened. Rinse the fillet briefly under cold running water to remove excess cure and any clinging pepper or juniper. Pat thoroughly dry with paper towels. The flesh should now be firm throughout, deeper in color, and slightly translucent at the edges.

9. 9

   Finish with fresh dill

   Mince the remaining bunch of dill finely. Press it onto the flesh side of the gravlax, creating an herb coating that's as much about appearance as flavor. This fresh dill layer announces what awaits. The gravlax is now ready to slice, though it will keep wrapped in the refrigerator for up to a week.

10. 10

    Slice and serve

    Using your sharpest knife, slice the gravlax as thin as you can manage, cutting at a sharp angle almost parallel to the cutting board. Start from the tail end and work toward the thick. Each slice should be wide, thin, and translucent enough to see light through. Leave the skin behind as you slice. Arrange the slices on a platter, slightly overlapping. Serve with the mustard dill sauce, dark rye bread, and perhaps some pickled onions or capers.

    A long, thin slicing knife makes this work easier. If your knife skills aren't confident, partially freeze the gravlax for 30 minutes. The firmer texture slices more obediently.

Chef Tips

• •Seek out salmon during the summer runs when fish are fattest and freshest. King salmon season peaks from May through September in Pacific Northwest waters. Sockeye runs from June through August. Your fishmonger should know the source.
• •The salt you use matters. Diamond Crystal kosher salt is half as salty by volume as Morton's. If using Morton's, reduce the amount by a third. Table salt won't work at all, its fine grains dissolve too quickly and cure too aggressively.
• •Aquavit brands vary wildly. Linie, with its caraway and anise notes, is traditional. Krogstad from Portland makes an excellent local option. In a pinch, good vodka works, though you'll lose the warm spice notes.
• •Gravlax freezes beautifully for up to two months. Wrap tightly in plastic, then foil. Thaw overnight in the refrigerator. This makes it practical to cure a large fillet and enjoy it over time.
• •The leftover bits near the tail and belly, too thin to slice prettily, make excellent gravlax tartare. Chop finely and fold with crème fraîche, capers, and chives.

Advance Preparation

• •Gravlax requires 48-72 hours of curing time, so plan accordingly. Start Friday afternoon for a Sunday dinner party.
• •Once cured and coated with fresh dill, gravlax keeps refrigerated for up to one week, well-wrapped.
• •Mustard dill sauce can be made up to one week ahead and stored refrigerated. Whisk before serving to re-emulsify.
• •Slice gravlax up to 4 hours before serving. Arrange on platters, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and refrigerate. Bring to cool room temperature 15 minutes before serving for best texture.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 110g)