Chef Graziella
Bistecca alla Fiorentina
The T-bone of Florence, thick as three fingers and charred over blazing coals, rested until the juices settle, finished with nothing but salt and the best olive oil Tuscany can offer.
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Osso Buco alla Milanese
Created by
Veal shanks braised until the meat yields at the touch of a fork, the marrow soft and rich within its bone, finished with the bright perfume of gremolata. This is Milan at its most refined.
Main Dishes
Italian, Lombard
Dinner Party
Special Occasion
Comfort Food
30 min
Active Time
2 hr 30 min cook•3 hr total
Yield4 servings
The treasure of osso buco is not the meat but the marrow. That soft, rich center of the bone is why the Milanese cut their veal shanks crosswise rather than lengthwise. The name itself, meaning 'bone with a hole,' points you toward the point.
This dish belongs to Milan, and specifically to the Lombard tradition of slow-braised meats in bianco, without tomato. Purists will tell you that the tomato is a later addition, a 19th-century modification. They are correct. But the version with tomato has become the standard, and it is excellent, so I teach it. What matters is the technique: the deep browning, the patient soffritto, the gentle braise that transforms tough connective tissue into silk.
The gremolata is not optional. The lemon zest, garlic, and parsley cut through the richness of the braised meat. Add it only at the moment of serving. It loses its brightness within minutes. Serve this with risotto alla Milanese, as tradition demands. The saffron rice and the braised veal are inseparable in Lombardy. Pasta with osso buco is an American invention.
Osso buco appears in Milanese cookbooks by the late 18th century, though the dish likely predates its written records. The addition of tomato came in the 1800s after the fruit gained acceptance in northern Italian cooking. The Accademia Italiana della Cucina recognizes both versions as authentic, though the tomato-enriched recipe has become dominant outside Lombardy.
The technique, the tradition, and the story behind every dish.
Discover Culinary ExplorerIngredients
veal shanks
Quantity
4 (12-14 ounces each)
cut crosswise 1 1/2 to 2 inches thick
all-purpose flour
Quantity
for dredging
unsalted butter
Quantity
4 tablespoons
extra virgin olive oil
Quantity
2 tablespoons
yellow onion
Quantity
1 medium
diced fine
carrot
Quantity
1 medium
peeled and diced fine
celery stalk
Quantity
1
diced fine
dry white wine
Quantity
1 cup
canned whole peeled tomatoes
Quantity
1 cup
chopped, with their juice
beef or veal broth
Quantity
1 cup, plus more as needed
fresh thyme
Quantity
2 sprigs
bay leaves
Quantity
2
kosher salt
Quantity
to taste
black pepper
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
fresh flat-leaf parsley
Quantity
3 tablespoons
chopped fine
lemon zest
Quantity
1 tablespoon (from 1 lemon)
garlic
Quantity
1 small clove
minced very fine
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| veal shankscut crosswise 1 1/2 to 2 inches thick | 4 (12-14 ounces each) |
| all-purpose flour | for dredging |
| unsalted butter | 4 tablespoons |
| extra virgin olive oil | 2 tablespoons |
| yellow oniondiced fine | 1 medium |
| carrotpeeled and diced fine | 1 medium |
| celery stalkdiced fine | 1 |
| dry white wine | 1 cup |
| canned whole peeled tomatoeschopped, with their juice | 1 cup |
| beef or veal broth | 1 cup, plus more as needed |
| fresh thyme | 2 sprigs |
| bay leaves | 2 |
| kosher salt | to taste |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
| fresh flat-leaf parsleychopped fine | 3 tablespoons |
| lemon zest | 1 tablespoon (from 1 lemon) |
| garlicminced very fine | 1 small clove |
Equipment Needed
- •Heavy 6-quart Dutch oven or braising pan with lid
- •Oven-safe to 325°F
- •Small marrow spoons for serving
Instructions
- 1
Prepare the shanks
Remove the veal shanks from the refrigerator 30 minutes before cooking. Pat them thoroughly dry with paper towels. Season generously with salt and pepper on both sides. The surface must be dry or the meat will steam instead of brown. Dredge each shank lightly in flour, shaking off the excess. The coating should be barely visible.
Ask your butcher for veal shanks cut from the center of the leg, where the marrow is most generous. The bone should be at least one and a half inches thick. Thin cuts dry out and the marrow escapes. - 2
Brown the shanks
In a heavy braising pan or Dutch oven that will hold the shanks in a single layer, heat 2 tablespoons butter with the olive oil over medium-high heat. When the butter foam subsides, add the shanks. Do not crowd them. Brown deeply on both sides, about 4 minutes per side. The crust should be a rich golden brown. Transfer to a plate. You are building the foundation of flavor here.
- 3
Build the soffritto
Reduce heat to medium. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons butter to the pan. When melted, add the onion, carrot, and celery. Cook slowly, stirring occasionally, scraping up any brown bits from the bottom of the pan. These are flavor. The vegetables should become very soft and the onion pale gold, about 15 minutes. Do not let anything burn.
- 4
Add wine and tomatoes
Pour in the white wine and let it bubble vigorously, scraping the bottom of the pan. Cook until the wine has reduced by half, about 3 minutes. Add the chopped tomatoes with their juice, the broth, thyme, and bay leaves. Stir to combine. The liquid should come about two-thirds up the sides of the shanks, not cover them completely.
- 5
Braise the shanks
Return the shanks to the pan, nestling them into the liquid. Bring to a gentle simmer. Cover the pan and transfer to a 325°F oven. Braise until the meat is fork-tender and pulling away from the bone, about 2 hours. Check occasionally and add more broth if the liquid reduces too much. Turn the shanks once halfway through.
The meat should yield easily to a fork but not fall apart completely. When you lift a shank by the bone, it should stay attached but feel very loose. This is the moment of doneness. - 6
Make the gremolata
While the shanks finish braising, combine the parsley, lemon zest, and minced garlic in a small bowl. Mix thoroughly. The garlic here is a whisper, not a shout. It must be minced so fine that it becomes almost a paste. This brightness cuts through the richness of the braised meat. Make this only at the last moment. It loses its vitality quickly.
- 7
Finish and serve
Remove the pan from the oven. Transfer the shanks carefully to a warm serving platter. Discard the thyme stems and bay leaves. If the sauce seems thin, simmer it on the stovetop for a few minutes to concentrate. Taste and adjust salt. Spoon the sauce over and around the shanks. Scatter the gremolata over the top at the moment of serving, not before. Serve immediately, placing a small spoon alongside for the marrow.
Chef Tips
- •Ask your butcher for veal shanks cut from the center of the leg, where the marrow is most generous. The bone should be at least one and a half inches thick. Thin cuts dry out and the marrow escapes.
- •The gremolata is not optional. The lemon zest, garlic, and parsley cut through the richness of the braised meat. Add it only at the moment of serving. It loses its brightness within minutes.
- •Serve this with risotto alla Milanese, as tradition demands. The saffron rice and the braised veal are inseparable in Lombardy. Pasta with osso buco is an American invention.
- •Tie each shank around its circumference with kitchen twine if you worry about the meat falling off the bone during braising. Remove the twine before serving.
Advance Preparation
- •The braised shanks can be made one day ahead and refrigerated in their sauce. The flavor deepens overnight. Reheat gently in a 300°F oven until warmed through, about 45 minutes.
- •Make the gremolata only at serving time. It cannot be made ahead. The lemon zest oxidizes and the parsley wilts.
Frequently Asked Questions
Nutrition Information
1 serving (about 480g)
Calories
650 calories
Total Fat
35 g
Saturated Fat
15 g
Trans Fat
0 g
Unsaturated Fat
18 g
Cholesterol
240 mg
Sodium
850 mg
Total Carbohydrates
13 g
Dietary Fiber
2 g
Sugars
3 g
Protein
65 g
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