Old-Fashioned Rice Pudding

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Heavy-bottomed 3-quart saucepan
• •Fine-mesh strainer
• •Wooden spoon or silicone spatula
• •Heat diffuser (optional but helpful)

Instructions

1. 1

   Rinse the rice

   Place the rice in a fine-mesh strainer and rinse under cold running water for thirty seconds, swirling with your fingers until the water runs mostly clear. This removes surface starch that would otherwise make the pudding gluey rather than creamy. Shake off excess water.

   Don't rinse too thoroughly. You want to remove loose starch powder while preserving the starch within the grain that creates creaminess during cooking.
2. 2

   Combine milk and rice

   Pour the milk and cream into a heavy-bottomed three-quart saucepan. Add the rinsed rice, sugar, and salt. Stir to dissolve the sugar. Set over medium heat and bring just to a simmer, stirring occasionally to prevent the rice from settling and sticking.

3. 3

   Establish the simmer

   Once you see lazy bubbles breaking the surface, reduce heat to low. The liquid should barely move, with a bubble rising every few seconds. Too vigorous and the milk will scorch. Too gentle and you'll be at the stove for two hours. Find the sweet spot.

   A flame tamer or heat diffuser is worth its weight in gold here. It distributes heat evenly and prevents hot spots that cause scorching.
4. 4

   Cook low and slow

   Simmer uncovered for thirty-five to forty-five minutes, stirring every four to five minutes and more frequently toward the end. Scrape the bottom and corners of the pan where milk proteins like to hide and burn. The rice will gradually swell, the liquid will thicken, and the kitchen will smell like Sunday morning.

5. 5

   Test for doneness

   The pudding is ready when the rice is completely tender with no chalky core, and the mixture coats a spoon thickly. Draw your finger across the back of the spoon. If the line holds without the pudding running back together immediately, you're there. It will thicken considerably as it cools.

   Err on the side of slightly loose. Pudding that looks perfect hot will be too thick once chilled. You can always cook it longer; you cannot undo overcooked pudding.
6. 6

   Finish with flavorings

   Remove the pan from heat. Stir in the butter until melted and glossy, then add the vanilla and cinnamon. If using raisins, fold them in now so they plump slightly in the residual heat. The butter adds richness and a silky finish that separates good rice pudding from great.

7. 7

   Serve or chill

   For warm pudding, spoon into bowls immediately and dust with additional cinnamon or freshly grated nutmeg. For cold pudding, press plastic wrap directly onto the surface to prevent a skin from forming, and refrigerate until chilled, at least two hours. Before serving cold, stir in a splash of milk or cream to loosen the thickened pudding.

Chef Tips

• •The rice variety matters more than you might think. Arborio, sushi rice, or any short-grain variety releases starch that creates creaminess. Long-grain rice stays separate and produces a different texture entirely, more like rice in sweetened milk than true pudding.
• •Whole milk is the minimum here. Do not attempt this with skim or low-fat. The fat carries flavor and creates body. If you want richer pudding, increase the cream proportion. If you want lighter, use all whole milk and skip the cream, but know what you're trading away.
• •Golden raisins are traditional in my family, but some prefer dark raisins, dried cranberries, or no fruit at all. Soak dried fruit in warm water or rum for fifteen minutes before adding if you want them plump and tender rather than chewy.
• •A pinch of cardamom instead of cinnamon transforms this into something closer to Indian kheer. A strip of lemon zest simmered with the milk and removed before serving adds brightness. The base recipe invites interpretation.

Advance Preparation

• •Rice pudding keeps refrigerated for up to five days. It will thicken considerably. Before serving, stir in milk or cream one tablespoon at a time until you reach your preferred consistency.
• •This pudding can be served warm, at room temperature, or cold. Many families have strong opinions about which is correct. All three are correct.
• •For individual servings, portion into ramekins or small bowls before chilling. Cover each with plastic wrap pressed to the surface. Guests can add their own cinnamon and cream.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 580g)