
Chef Lupita
Buñuelos Bajío con Miel de Piloncillo
Guanajuato's holiday buñuelos, thin wheat dough rested with tomatillo husks and canela milk, fried crisp and finished with a dark miel de piloncillo.
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San Luis Potosi's Ojo de Pancha is a flaky lard pastry round with a dark caramelized sugar crown, the kind of panaderia cookie that survives because people keep buying it by the dozen.
San Luis Potosi, especially the Altiplano potosino, has a panaderia tradition that does not shout. It sits in paper-lined trays, stacked in metal cases, next to semitas, campechanas, and these Ojos de Pancha: flaky rounds with a dark sugar eye in the center. This is not a chile dish. Not all Mexican food is chile and salsa. Cada estado, su propia cocina.
The work here is the fat and the fold. The pastry needs manteca de cerdo for tenderness and butter for clean flaky layers. If you use only butter, it tastes like a French exercise. If you use only shortening, it tastes like a factory cookie. La manteca es el sabor, and in the old bakeries of San Luis Potosi, that was not a debate.
The crown is a simple sugar paste brushed with piloncillo syrup until it turns dark, brittle, and shiny. I learned this from a panadera outside the Mercado Republica who kept one hand on the rolling pin and one eye on the oven. She told me, 'The cookie tells you when it is done.' She was right. The pastry should lift in layers and the sugar should crack under your teeth. No me vengas con atajos.
Ojo de Pancha belongs to the old bakery repertoire of San Luis Potosi, where wheat breads and pastries expanded during the colonial period after Spanish milling and baking traditions settled into the mining routes of the north-central Altiplano. Its structure, laminated dough under a sugar crown, reflects the regional meeting of wheat flour, pork lard, and piloncillo rather than the corn-based cooking that defines many central and southern states. The name varies by bakery and family, but in San Luis Potosi the dark circular top is the point: the 'eye' is not decoration, it is the cookie's identity.
Quantity
3 cups, plus more for rolling
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
3/4 cup
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 cup
cut into small pieces
Quantity
1/2 cup
cut into small pieces
Quantity
1
beaten, for brushing the pastry edges
Quantity
1 cup
for the crown paste
Quantity
1/2 cup
for the crown paste
Quantity
3 tablespoons
for the crown paste
Quantity
1
for the crown paste
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
1/4 cup
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 pinch
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| all-purpose flour | 3 cups, plus more for rolling |
| fine sea salt | 1 teaspoon |
| granulated sugar | 1 tablespoon |
| cold water | 3/4 cup |
| apple cider vinegar | 1 teaspoon |
| cold manteca de cerdocut into small pieces | 1/2 cup |
| cold unsalted buttercut into small pieces | 1/2 cup |
| eggbeaten, for brushing the pastry edges | 1 |
| granulated sugarfor the crown paste | 1 cup |
| all-purpose flourfor the crown paste | 1/2 cup |
| softened manteca de cerdofor the crown paste | 3 tablespoons |
| egg whitefor the crown paste | 1 |
| ground canela | 1/2 teaspoon |
| grated piloncillo | 1/2 cup |
| water | 1/4 cup |
| dark brown sugar | 1 tablespoon |
| fine sea salt | 1 pinch |
Whisk the flour, salt, and sugar in a wide bowl. Stir the cold water with the vinegar, then add it little by little until the flour gathers into a rough dough. Do not knead it smooth. A pastry like this needs restraint. Wrap and rest it in the refrigerator for 30 minutes so the flour hydrates and stops fighting you.
Scatter the cold manteca de cerdo and butter over the dough. Fold the dough over itself and press with the rolling pin until the fat flattens into visible streaks. You want sheets of fat, not a blended paste. Those streaks become the layers. If the fat melts, stop and chill the dough for 20 minutes.
Roll the dough into a rectangle about 10 by 16 inches. Fold it in thirds like a letter. Turn it one quarter turn, roll it again, and fold it again. Wrap and chill for 30 minutes. Repeat this rolling, folding, and chilling two more times. This is the work. La cocina no es decoracion, es trabajo.
Mix the granulated sugar, flour, softened manteca de cerdo, egg white, and canela until you have a thick, sandy paste that holds when pressed. It should not be wet. Roll it between two sheets of parchment to about 1/8 inch thick and cut 18 small circles, about 1 1/2 inches wide. These are the eyes.
Roll the chilled pastry to about 1/4 inch thick. Cut 18 rounds, about 3 inches wide, with a sharp cutter. Do not twist the cutter. Twisting seals the edges and the layers will not lift. Set the rounds on parchment-lined baking sheets and chill for 20 minutes.
Brush only the outer rim of each pastry round with beaten egg. Place one sugar paste circle in the center of each round and press lightly so it adheres. Leave a border of bare pastry around the eye. That border will rise and flake while the center darkens and cracks.
Simmer the grated piloncillo, water, dark brown sugar, and pinch of salt in a small saucepan for 5 to 7 minutes, until the syrup looks glossy and coats the back of a spoon. Keep it warm. Piloncillo gives the crown its dark mineral sweetness. White sugar alone tastes thin.
Bake at 400F for 10 minutes, then reduce the oven to 375F and bake 8 minutes more. Brush the sugar crowns with the piloncillo syrup, not the pastry border. Return to the oven for 3 to 4 minutes, until the centers are dark amber and shiny and the pastry edges are lifted and pale gold. Watch closely. Caramel goes from right to burned quickly.
Let the cookies cool on the baking sheet for 10 minutes, then move them to a rack. Do not eat them hot. The sugar crown needs time to harden into that brittle shell. When you bite it, the top should crack and the pastry should scatter flakes. Recetas probadas y garantizadas.
1 serving (about 60g)
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