
Chef Lupita
Arroz a la Oaxaqueña
Oaxaca's red rice, stained with tomato and fried in lard, steamed with carrots, ejotes, black beans, and epazote. The side that anchors a Oaxacan family meal and earns its place beside the main.
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Whole cactus paddles charred on a hot comal until tender and smoky, sliced into ribbons, dressed with lime, raw white onion, and coarse salt. The everyday side from the central plateau.
The nopal belongs to the central plateau. Hidalgo, Tlaxcala, the State of Mexico, the high valleys around Mexico City where the prickly pear cactus grows in every empty lot and along every roadside. This is altiplano food. The eagle on the Mexican flag is standing on a nopal for a reason.
Nopales asados is the most honest preparation of the paddle. No boiling, no chopping into salad, no disguising. You shave the thorns, score the surface, salt it, and lay it on a hot comal until the green darkens and the edges char. That is the dish. The lime, the salt, the raw onion at the end are not seasoning so much as punctuation.
The trick is the comal. It must be hot. A cool comal steams the nopal and you get the baba, that clear slime everyone outside Mexico complains about. A hot comal sears the surface, drives the moisture out, and leaves you with a paddle that tastes green and smoky and slightly mineral, like the high desert it grew in. The salt-and-rest before cooking helps. So does the scoring. The senoras who sell asados outside the metro stations in Mexico City have done this their whole lives and they have all worked it out the same way. Cada estado, su propia cocina, but on this one the central states agree.
My mother was from Jalisco and she did not grow up on nopales the way the chilangos do. She learned them after she moved to Colonia Roma, from a woman who sold them already grilled at the corner of Alvaro Obregon and Orizaba. Her note in the margin: 'salt them first, the baba comes out before the fire.' Saber cocinar es saber vivir.
The nopal (Opuntia ficus-indica) has been cultivated and eaten in central Mexico for at least 9,000 years, predating maize as a staple food in some highland archaeological sites. The Mexica founded Tenochtitlan on the spot where, according to the founding myth, an eagle perched on a nopal devouring a serpent, an image preserved on the Mexican flag and coat of arms. Mexico remains the world's largest producer of nopales, with the State of Mexico, Morelos, and Hidalgo accounting for the majority of national output, and the town of Milpa Alta on the southern edge of Mexico City holding an annual Feria del Nopal that has been celebrated since 1977.
Quantity
6 medium (about 1 1/2 pounds)
thorns shaved off
Quantity
2 tablespoons, divided
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
3
halved
Quantity
1
finely diced
Quantity
1/2 cup
chopped
Quantity
1
finely chopped
Quantity
for serving
Quantity
for serving
warmed
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| fresh nopales (cactus paddles)thorns shaved off | 6 medium (about 1 1/2 pounds) |
| coarse sea salt | 2 tablespoons, divided |
| vegetable oil or melted lard | 1 tablespoon |
| Mexican limes (limones criollos)halved | 3 |
| small white onionfinely diced | 1 |
| fresh cilantrochopped | 1/2 cup |
| fresh chile serrano (optional)finely chopped | 1 |
| crumbled queso fresco (optional) | for serving |
| hand-pressed corn tortillas (optional)warmed | for serving |
Hold each paddle by its base, the woody end, and use a sharp paring knife to shave off the thorns and the small bumps where they grew. Scrape from the base toward the tip, the way the senoras at the Mercado de Jamaica do it. Trim the woody base and a thin border around the edge of each paddle. Do not peel the skin. The skin is part of the texture and most of the flavor.
Lay each paddle flat and score the surface in a shallow crosshatch with the tip of your knife, just deep enough to break the skin. The cuts let the heat into the flesh and let the slime, the baba, escape as it cooks. Sprinkle both sides with about half the salt and let them sit for ten minutes while the comal heats. The salt draws out the baba before it hits the heat. This is the step that turns a slimy nopal into a clean one. No me vengas con atajos.
Set a cast iron comal or heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Let it heat for at least five minutes, until a drop of water dances and disappears. The comal must be hot. A cool comal will steam the nopales and you will end up with a slimy mess instead of a charred paddle. Brush the surface lightly with the oil or lard. La manteca es el sabor, even on a vegetable.
Pat the nopales dry with a clean cloth. The salt will have pulled out a clear, slightly sticky liquid. Wipe it off. Lay the paddles on the comal in a single layer, scored side down first. Press them flat with the back of a spatula. Cook for four to five minutes, until the underside has dark char marks and the green has turned a deeper olive. Flip and cook the other side for another three to four minutes. The paddle should bend but still hold its shape. Tender, not floppy.
Move the charred paddles to a wooden cutting board. Slice each one crosswise into half-inch strips. Pile them on a serving plate or in a shallow clay cazuela. Squeeze the lime halves directly over the warm nopales, using all three. Sprinkle the rest of the salt, the diced raw white onion, the cilantro, and the serrano if you are using it. Toss once with your hands. Serve immediately, with warm tortillas and crumbled queso fresco on the side. Asi se hace y punto.
1 serving (about 220g)
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