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Flaky, anise-scented shortbread cookies rolled in cinnamon sugar, passed down from Spanish colonial kitchens to become New Mexico's official state cookie and a cherished holiday tradition across the Southwest.
This is the only state cookie in America, and New Mexico chose wisely. Biscochitos arrived with Spanish colonists in the 1600s and never left. For four centuries, grandmothers across the Rio Grande Valley have mixed lard, flour, and anise into something that shatters when you bite it and melts on your tongue. The recipe barely changed because it didn't need to.
The secret is lard. I know. Modern sensibilities rebel against it. But lard creates a texture no butter can replicate—impossibly tender, with layers that fracture into delicate shards. The anise provides warmth without sweetness, a sophisticated flavor that distinguishes these from ordinary sugar cookies. The cinnamon sugar coating bridges Old World spice routes and New World abundance.
Every Hispanic household in New Mexico has their version. Some add orange zest. Others splash in brandy or sweet wine. The shape matters too. Traditional biscochitos are cut into fleur-de-lis patterns, a nod to Spanish heraldry that persisted long after the colonial era ended. But stars, rounds, and crescents appear at Christmas tables with equal frequency.
I learned to make these in Santa Fe from a woman whose family had been baking them since before New Mexico was a state, before it was a territory, before the railroad arrived. She measured nothing. Her hands knew exactly how the dough should feel. This recipe captures what her hands taught me.
Quantity
1 pound (2 cups)
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
2
Quantity
2 tablespoons
lightly crushed
Quantity
1/4 cup
Quantity
6 cups
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
1 tablespoon
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| high-quality leaf lard, at room temperature | 1 pound (2 cups) |
| granulated sugar | 1 cup |
| large eggs | 2 |
| anise seedslightly crushed | 2 tablespoons |
| brandy, sweet sherry, or anisette liqueur | 1/4 cup |
| all-purpose flour | 6 cups |
| baking powder | 1 tablespoon |
| fine sea salt | 1 teaspoon |
| granulated sugar (for coating) | 1/2 cup |
| ground cinnamon (for coating) | 1 tablespoon |
In a large bowl or stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the lard and 1 cup sugar together on medium speed until light and fluffy, about 4 minutes. The mixture should turn pale and increase noticeably in volume. Scrape down the sides twice during this process. This aeration creates the cookie's characteristic tender crumb.
Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. The mixture may look slightly curdled—don't worry. Add the crushed anise seeds and brandy (or sherry or anisette), beating until incorporated. The kitchen will smell like a proper New Mexican holiday.
In a separate bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Add the dry ingredients to the lard mixture in three additions, mixing on low speed just until each addition is incorporated. The dough will be soft but not sticky. It should pull cleanly from the bowl sides.
Divide the dough in half and flatten each portion into a disk about 1 inch thick. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 3 days. Cold dough rolls cleanly and holds its shape during baking. Patience here prevents frustration later.
Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of your oven and preheat to 350°F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. In a shallow bowl, stir together the remaining 1/2 cup sugar and cinnamon until evenly combined. Set aside.
Working with one disk at a time (keep the other refrigerated), roll the dough on a lightly floured surface to 1/4-inch thickness. Traditional biscochitos are cut with a fleur-de-lis cutter, but any 2 to 3-inch shape works beautifully. Gather scraps gently, reroll once, and cut again. Beyond that second roll, the dough toughens.
Press each cut cookie into the cinnamon sugar mixture, coating both sides completely. The sugar should cling in a generous layer. Place cookies 1 inch apart on prepared baking sheets. These don't spread much, so you can fit them closer than most cookies.
Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, rotating the pans front to back and switching racks halfway through. The cookies are done when the bottoms turn golden and the tops look set but still pale. They'll feel soft when hot but will crisp as they cool. Remove from oven when you see the faintest golden edge—they continue cooking on the hot pan.
Let cookies cool on the baking sheets for 5 minutes, then transfer to wire racks to cool completely. The texture transforms as they cool—from soft and tender to delicately crisp with that signature shatter. Store in an airtight container at room temperature. They keep beautifully for two weeks, though they rarely last that long.
1 cookie (about 19g)
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