New England Clam Chowder

Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Large pot with tight-fitting lid (6-quart minimum)
• •Fine-mesh strainer
• •Cheesecloth for straining clam broth
• •Large wooden spoon or silicone spatula
• •Heavy-bottomed Dutch oven or soup pot

Instructions

1. 1

   Purge and inspect the clams

   Place scrubbed clams in a large bowl of cold salted water for twenty minutes. This encourages them to expel any remaining sand. Discard any clams with cracked shells or those that refuse to close when tapped sharply. A dead clam will ruin your entire pot.

   Buy clams the day you plan to cook. Store them in a bowl covered with a damp towel in the refrigerator, never in sealed plastic or submerged in fresh water.
2. 2

   Steam the clams

   Combine wine and water in a large pot with a tight-fitting lid. Bring to a vigorous boil over high heat. Add clams, cover immediately, and steam for six to eight minutes, shaking the pot occasionally. The clams are ready when their shells have opened wide, releasing their liquor into the pot. Remove from heat the moment the last clam opens.

3. 3

   Harvest the clam broth

   Transfer clams to a large bowl using a slotted spoon. Let the steaming liquid settle for five minutes, then carefully pour through a fine-mesh strainer lined with cheesecloth into a large measuring cup. Sand and grit will remain in the cheesecloth. You should have about four cups of precious clam broth. This liquid is the soul of your chowder.

   If you end up short on broth, supplement with bottled clam juice. Never substitute water or chicken stock.
4. 4

   Extract the clam meat

   When cool enough to handle, remove clam meat from shells, working over the bowl to catch any additional juice. Chop larger clams into bite-sized pieces. Smaller littlenecks can remain whole. Strain any accumulated juice through your cheesecloth into the broth. Discard shells and any clams that failed to open.

5. 5

   Render the salt pork

   Wipe out your pot and set it over medium-low heat. Add the diced salt pork and cook slowly, stirring occasionally, until the fat renders and the meat turns golden and crisp at the edges. This takes twelve to fifteen minutes. Patience here builds the smoky backbone of your chowder. Do not rush this step.

   Salt pork differs from bacon. It carries less smoke and more pure pork fat. If substituting thick-cut bacon, reduce cooking fat by half to avoid an overly smoky chowder.
6. 6

   Build the aromatic base

   Add butter to the rendered pork fat. When it foams, add onions and celery. Cook over medium heat, stirring often, until softened and translucent but not browned, about eight minutes. The vegetables should glisten and smell sweet. Add garlic and cook one minute more until fragrant.

7. 7

   Create the roux

   Sprinkle flour over the vegetables and stir constantly for two minutes. The flour should coat everything and lose its raw smell, turning slightly golden. This roux will thicken your chowder without making it gluey. Keep the heat moderate so the flour cooks without browning.

8. 8

   Add liquid and potatoes

   Pour in the reserved clam broth gradually, whisking constantly to prevent lumps. The mixture will seize initially, then loosen into a smooth base. Add potatoes, bay leaves, and thyme sprigs. Bring to a gentle simmer. Cook uncovered, stirring occasionally, until potatoes are tender when pierced with a knife but still hold their shape, about twenty minutes.

9. 9

   Finish with cream

   Reduce heat to low. Pour in cream and milk, stirring to combine. Heat until the chowder steams and barely trembles at the edges. Never let it boil or the dairy may break, leaving you with a grainy texture. Season with white pepper and taste carefully before adding salt. The clam broth and salt pork may have contributed enough. Remove bay leaves and thyme sprigs.

   White pepper disappears into the creamy base while black pepper leaves visible specks. Both taste fine, but tradition favors white for appearance.
10. 10

    Add clams and rest

    Fold the reserved clam meat into the chowder. Heat gently for two to three minutes, just until the clams warm through. Overcooking turns tender clams to rubber. Remove from heat, cover, and let rest for at least fifteen minutes. This resting period allows the flavors to marry and the chowder to thicken slightly. Great chowder improves with time.

11. 11

    Serve with ceremony

    Ladle the chowder into warmed bowls, making sure each portion gets its fair share of clams, potatoes, and crispy salt pork. Scatter fresh chives over each bowl. Serve with oyster crackers on the side for those who want them. A chowder this honest needs nothing more.

Chef Tips

• •The quality of your clams determines the quality of your chowder. Seek out littlenecks or cherrystones from a fishmonger who can tell you when they arrived. The shells should smell like clean ocean, never fishy or sulfurous.
• •Chowder tastes better the next day. The potatoes absorb flavor, the cream mellows, and everything becomes one. Reheat gently over low heat, adding a splash of milk if the chowder has thickened too much overnight.
• •For a richer version, replace half the milk with additional cream. For a lighter touch, reverse the proportion. Neither approach is wrong. Both are honest.
• •A splash of dry sherry stirred in just before serving adds an old-fashioned elegance. One tablespoon per bowl, no more.
• •Serve this chowder with warm crusty bread, a simple green salad, and a cold beer or crisp white wine. The meal needs nothing else.

Advance Preparation

• •The clam broth can be prepared up to two days ahead. Steam the clams, strain the broth, and refrigerate both separately. The fat from the broth may solidify on top, which is harmless.
• •Completed chowder improves after refrigeration. Make it a day ahead, refrigerate, and reheat gently over low heat, stirring often. Add the chives just before serving.
• •Chowder base without cream freezes well for up to two months. Complete steps one through eight, cool completely, and freeze. Thaw overnight in the refrigerator, then add cream and clams when reheating. Do not freeze the finished chowder as the potatoes may become grainy and the cream can separate.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 390g)