
Chef Jeong-sun
Changnan-jeot (Salted Pollack Tripe)
A bracing Korean jeotgal of pollack intestines, cleaned with coarse salt, fermented cold until firm and savory, then dressed lightly with gochugaru, garlic, sesame, and scallion for rice.
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Young mountain garlic leaves folded into a soy-vinegar brine, mellowed until their sharp green bite becomes the leaf you want around grilled pork, rice, and a full table.
Myeongi belongs to the spring market. You see the leaves for a short time, broad and green, stacked in damp bundles from Ulleungdo or the high mountains, and then the season closes. Cook the month you're standing in. If it isn't spring and the leaves are tough or tired, make kkaennip-jangajji (pickled perilla leaves) instead and wait for myeongi to come back honestly.
This jangajji lives or dies by dilution. The leaves must be washed because mountain greens carry grit, then dried because every drop of water weakens the soy-vinegar brine. The first hot pour wilts the leaves and drives the brine into them. The next day you boil the brine again because the leaves have given up their own water. That second boil is not fussiness. It is how the pickle stays clean and clear.
Notebook 41 says 500g leaves, not one basket, and 2/3 cup sugar, not a vague sweet handful. Myeongi should still taste like mountain garlic: mineral, green, faintly sharp under the soy. At the table, one leaf wraps around samgyeopsal (grilled pork belly) and suddenly you need less raw garlic, less ssamjang, less noise. Let it taste like itself.
Myeongi, also called sanmaneul (mountain garlic, Allium ochotense), grows naturally on Ulleungdo and in cool Korean highlands; local Ulleungdo accounts tie the name to myeong (life), saying early settlers ate the spring leaves through food-scarce months after government settlement began in 1882. Soy-sauce jangajji (pickled preserves) made the short harvest last beyond spring, and the leaves later became strongly linked with grilled pork tables, where one leaf can stand in for lettuce, garlic, and banchan at once. Modern demand has moved much of the supply from wild slopes to highland farms, which is better for the mountain and steadier for the cook.
Quantity
500g, about 50 to 80 leaves
trimmed, washed, and dried very well
Quantity
1 1/2 cups
Quantity
1 1/2 cups
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
2/3 cup (130g)
Quantity
1 piece, about 5cm square
Quantity
1
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| young myeongi (mountain garlic) leavestrimmed, washed, and dried very well | 500g, about 50 to 80 leaves |
| Korean brewed soy sauce (yangjo ganjang or jin ganjang) | 1 1/2 cups |
| water | 1 1/2 cups |
| rice vinegar, 5% acidity | 1 cup |
| sugar | 2/3 cup (130g) |
| dried kelp (dasima) | 1 piece, about 5cm square |
| dried shiitake mushroom (optional) | 1 |
Choose young, tender myeongi leaves with flexible stems and no yellowing. Trim the dry stem ends, leaving about 1cm of stem attached. Do not use old leaves with thick, fibrous stems for whole-leaf jangajji; they will pickle unevenly and chew like paper rope.
Swish the leaves in a large bowl of cold water, lift them out, and repeat with fresh water until no grit falls to the bottom. Dry them in a salad spinner, then spread them on clean towels for 30 minutes. Water clinging to the leaves dilutes the brine on the first day, and diluted brine is how jangajji turns cloudy before it has learned its work.
Pack the dry leaves into a clean heatproof two-liter glass jar or small onggi, stacking them mostly in the same direction so you can lift one leaf out later without tearing five. Press gently, not violently. Bruised leaves soften too much during the week of curing.
Put the soy sauce, water, sugar, kelp, and dried shiitake in a nonreactive saucepan. Bring just to a simmer, stirring until the sugar dissolves, then pull out the kelp as soon as the liquid bubbles at the edge. Simmer 3 minutes more, turn off the heat, and stir in the rice vinegar. The kelp gives body, but if you boil it hard it turns slick and bitter.
Set the jar on a folded towel and pour the hot brine through a strainer over the leaves. Press the leaves down with clean tongs as they soften and darken from bright green to olive brown. Weight them so every leaf stays under the brine. Cool until the jar is no longer warm, then refrigerate. This is refrigerator jangajji, not shelf-stable canning.
After 24 hours, pour the brine back into the saucepan, leaving the leaves in the jar. Bring the brine to a full boil for 2 minutes, then cool it completely before pouring it back over the leaves. My teacher made me do this even when I was tired. The first day pulls water from the leaves; reboiling tightens the brine again, and cooling it preserves the texture after the first wilt.
Refrigerate at least 5 days, though 7 days is better and 2 weeks is when the flavor settles properly. To serve, lift out one leaf at a time, let the brine drip back into the jar, and wrap it around grilled pork, rice, or a small mouthful of barley rice. If a leaf tastes too salty for your table, soak only the serving portion in cold water for 3 minutes, then drain. Do not water down the storage jar.
1 serving (about 60g)
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